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Raven, part 2

Call me crazy but I really don't think sanding the inside is all that bad. I think it's about managing expectations and personal preferences.

90% of the interior hull is pretty easy to sand. It's only in the bilge turn and close to the stems that it gets tough and can require something other than a ROS but even then with a couple foam backing pads I can do most of the bilge with the ROS too.

On my personal hulls I won't be filling the weave on the interior so I know I won't have a perfect glossy finish so there's no sense in sanding it to perfection. The stems and bilge are never sanded to perfection and I'm sure if you looked you could find plenty of evidence but it simply doesn't bother me. When I was building I'd sand the full interior in an evening, usually a few hours.

Another key is a vacuum connected to the ROS. What a night and day difference.

Alan
 
My standards are very similar to yours, and I do use a vacuum hooked up to the sander, but I'm lazy, really dislike hand sanding, and there is going to be a fair amount on this one, Sanded about four stations worth on the bottom today, wasn't bad. That gorilla wood glue is good stuff, seemed hard at first but sanded pretty well.
 
My standards are very similar to yours, and I do use a vacuum hooked up to the sander, but I'm lazy, really dislike hand sanding, and there is going to be a fair amount on this one, Sanded about four stations worth on the bottom today, wasn't bad. That gorilla wood glue is good stuff, seemed hard at first but sanded pretty well.
It didn't want to push the strips apart? Did you moisten them?
 
I have used gorilla glue on a strip boat and didn’t experience any pushing apart. I would use it again because of the easy clean up and sanding. I have had failures with the glue on other projects but since it gets coated in epoxy and glass it’s not an issue.
Jim
 
Found some nice cherry for the trim, six foot lengths, woodworking teacher set up this scarfing jig for me. In theory it works well, but in reality, it is a little loose on consistency. All good though, my gunwales are thicker than I need, so I'll shove them all through the thickness planer once they are glued.
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Nice jig.
It looks like you might cut into the screws that hold the stop block ? Maybe there isn't a screw in the bottom hole?

The angle looks fine.

The problems I have is keeping the trim, tight to the jig, and square to the table.

I often fiddle with clamps and make a few recuts.

Anyway, a little filler mixed with epoxy, fills any voids, and provides the best bond.
I've never had one come undone.

Jim.
 
Another scarfing jig.

 
Since people are sharing scarfing jigs etc, here is a writeup I did a while ago on how I make a hook scarf.
Jim
 
Every time I see skarfing brought up in a thread, it is almost always follows the same process of cutting larger pieces to smaller pieces, then joining all the smaller pieces to make longer lengths.
When I look at that as a process, it seems to make better sense to just skarf once to join the larger pieces of wood, then cut the smaller, longer pieces from that and forego trying to makeup many skarfed joints.
Doing gunnels, I will skarf the larger hardwood lumber and cut gunnels. in the longer length, directly with a skilsaw. Getting ready for the next build, I also just skarfed 3 pieces of NWC at 8' x 2" x 6", making two 30" skarf joints and forming a single19' 2" x 6", then cutting full length strips directly. In these cases, only 1 or 2 larger skarfs are needed and I find the larger skarfs are a lot easier to manage and work with.

We are talking specifically about boat builds here, so think strips and gunnels ... I am really curious why folks mostly choose to do all the skarfs individually, instead of just up front on the rough lumber?

Brian
 
I made a quick and dirty one from scraps 8 years ago that I'm still using today.


A couple of toggle clamps would be an easy and welcome addition for clamping.

Alan
 
When I look at that as a process, it seems to make better sense to just skarf once to join the larger pieces of wood, then cut the smaller, longer pieces from that and forego trying to makeup many skarfed joints.
I guess it has to do with the stock you have to start with. The cherry I had was 6 feet long by 8 inches. I had two boards, but they both varied widely in colour. Cutting them all out of one board allows for a more consistent colour match, if that is important. Plus, by the time I cut the wood into enough pieces to make the 16 feet, well, it probably wouldn't be worth it in this case. I have scarfed cedar boards before to get full length strips, that worked out quite well.
 
I guess it has to do with the stock you have to start with. The cherry I had was 6 feet long by 8 inches. I had two boards, but they both varied widely in colour. Cutting them all out of one board allows for a more consistent colour match, if that is important. Plus, by the time I cut the wood into enough pieces to make the 16 feet, well, it probably wouldn't be worth it in this case. I have scarfed cedar boards before to get full length strips, that worked out quite well.
I can see how that makes perfect sense given the starting stock.
 
I am a hair's width away from finding the courage to spend the last 15 minutes sanding before I fiberglass the interior. I finished the gunwales, more or less, ran them full length through the thickness planer on all sides, they look pretty snazzy now. I guess the thing is, the pressure is off, as I thought it was going to be early ice out this year. A buddy of mine measured the ice thickness in Nakina two weeks ago at 26 inches, he measured it again this weekend at 32, so we are actually building ice, not losing it, GOSH! This has been one of the longest winters I can remember, but then again, maybe I have just become more proficient at complaining.
 
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