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Alan's Bloodvein II

Now that I've started some strips with that perfect edge, I'll agree that using a joiner is a great idea. I think it would allow me to slice up the entire 14 inch board without the edge becoming too wavy, and it makes it unnecessary to discard the first strip.

As for thickness planing; I don't do that. I'll cut the bead first and then force the strips between the shaper bit and a solid fence when I cut the coves. That uniforms strip width for me and saves a step.

I'm not saying that planing boards or starting with finished lumber isn't OK, I'm just trying to assure anyone interested that you don't need a lot of tools to build these boats. A shaper or router table (IMO) eliminates the need for a planer and, in a pinch, you can eliminate the need for a joiner by discarding the 1st strip (but you'll have to be more careful holding consistent pressure on the saw to follow the edge).
Yes ! Running your strips between the fence and the bit !, for one eliminates the need to plane your planks. The Router does that for you, when you bead and cove.

Jim
 
Some boards will move as you remove material as internal stresses are relieved. When I was using cottonwood those planks really tended to crook while cutting strips, despite being jointed before hand. I stopped 2-3 times during each plank for a quick run over the jointer to keep it true during the process.

Alan

Honestly, when cutting strips you don't need a perfectly straight edge. You need one with a smooth enough line that your cutting jig of choice (including Tablesaw fences if that's your poison) can give you a consistent thickness coming off the blade. I haven't used the circular saw technique, but I'm surprised at the issue @Gamma1214 ran into with the edge going crazy like that.
 
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