Yes I think I follow you. I'll mock something up to see how it works out.Me ?
I would fit the curved piece, with the inside edge parallel, to the curved piece on the other side.
That would give two parallel edges, to fit your accent strip to.
Now on the inside of those, sand a slight outward bevel. Fit the inside, with a slight bevel.
It would be easier to show, if I was there ! Ha !
You will get it !
Yes I figure I'll dry fit my outer stems, mark them and then work in my accent strip, so I get it straight. And then I'll install my outer stems.I like the keel accent strip! I would finish stripping the hull and then fit and install the outer
Yes I need to round them off like the print showsAre you going to leave the stems protruding? at least that's what it looks like in the last photo.
Yes that is staying proud.That's funny, and I think it would be cool to do that. What I meant is the part of the stem below the water line. In the photo it looks like the stem isn't fair with the hull, that you left some of it proud of the rest of the hull, almost like a short section of keel. Maybe that's what you're saying you need to do.
Nice looking hull. I'm looking forward to seeing it glassed.
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Uhn, I thought about that a bit ago.That will be a problem with glassing.
Fiberglass cloth does not like hard corners. That is why bias cut strips are used to wrap the stems, the fibers cross diagonally so they don’t try to make a right angle turn.
A square edge proud of the hull will not take glass.
Yet another thing to think about. If I'm not mistaken that was in the plans I got for it, unless I misunderstood it.OK, I've seen people do that before and wondered why. I think you'll sacrifice some of the maneuverability and the canoe will handle a little more as if it's hogged towards the ends. In other words, doing eddy turns will be a bit more dicey than if those were faired. I assume the Raven is a larger version of the Osprey/Kite, which is a great canoe for turning in and out of eddys.