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A Raven for Christmas

That is a tight bend for sure. Sometimes even when steaming if I was making that sharp a bend, I would clamp the wood at the radius first, then bend down each end. That way the area most likely to crack has pressure at the start. You need to keep in mind that the strips slide and and might make one side too short if not careful.
Jim
I'll try that when I do my bow stem. I came close to deck area of the stem. That would be bad to be short there
 
I have 2 thoughts based on 1 (almost) canoe build.

It looks like the Raven has tapered stems so you are likely bending 1 5/8 inch wide stock around a 3/4 inch wide stem form? If you have scrap 3/4 inch sheet goods kicking around you might double the thickness of the stem bending form which would let you attach grounds (faced with packing tape) to one side. In the heat of battle you would only need to focus on the bend, not also, lateral alignment. You would be able to push the assembly hard to the ground side.

If you have any extra wood an additional, sacrificial layer on the outside might be helpful. it seems like the outer lamination (not backed?) is the first to fail.

Rick
 
I have 2 thoughts based on 1 (almost) canoe build.

It looks like the Raven has tapered stems so you are likely bending 1 5/8 inch wide stock around a 3/4 inch wide stem form? If you have scrap 3/4 inch sheet goods kicking around you might double the thickness of the stem bending form which would let you attach grounds (faced with packing tape) to one side. In the heat of battle you would only need to focus on the bend, not also, lateral alignment. You would be able to push the assembly hard to the ground side.

If you have any extra wood an additional, sacrificial layer on the outside might be helpful. it seems like the outer lamination (not backed?) is the first to fail.

Rick
Yes it does has tapered stems. My strips are 1 3/4" wide. I remember reading that and forgot it. Thanks for the reminder Rick.

I unclamped it to check everything over. Eh don't know? The outer strip on the inner stem did crack at the bend. I think it'll clean up fine and be structurally sound enough to use, plus it won't be seen, at least I think? I'll do better on my bow stem.
Roy
 
Another thought.

Instead of bending wet wood ? How about lap joining the vertical to the horizontal pieces, using dry wood.

It would be just as strong, maybe stronger.

Lap layer.

Jim
 
Making my stems using the Nick Schade method.

For those who are not familiar with this reference, Nick Schade, a professional and expert maker of strip kayaks and sometimes canoes, shows in the following video how to bend stems using thin laminations of dry wood instead of one thick strip of steamed wood.

 
For those who are not familiar with this reference, Nick Schade, a professional and expert maker of strip kayaks and sometimes canoes, shows in the following video how to bend stems using thin laminations of dry wood instead of one thick strip of steamed wood.

I wish Nick would have shown the grain orientation of the strips.

They should be Flat or Slash cut, to bend the easiest.

I'm told air dried lumber bends better than Kiln dried.

Jim
 
Another thought.

Instead of bending wet wood ? How about lap joining the vertical to the horizontal pieces, using dry wood.

It would be just as strong, maybe stronger.

Lap layer.

Jim
IMG_20230824_215238037.jpg
You mean something like that? When finished a person would view the ends with horizontal lines across the stems. 🤔 Interesting.

I know I had quiet a bit of spring back when stems were left unclamped for a few minutes. I went and clamped them back up figuring maybe the needed longer curing time.
 
I heard it crack, but it was just a little on the edge so I thought I could work around it. A minute later I heard a louder crack and then I figured there was no way around it then. That's a sharp bend in that spot.

Did you put fiber reinforced strapping tape on the outside radius of the outside strip as Nick Schade does? I can't tell from the pictures.
 
Did you put fiber reinforced strapping tape on the outside radius of the outside strip as Nick Schade does? I can't tell from the pictures.
Um no I didn't. It was strapping tape, but not fiber reinforced. That probably contributed to my failure. Hmm I guess I better get some. The store room at work doesn't stock the good strapping tape, bunch of cheap skates. I guess I'll have to spend my own money on that.
 
I wouldn't overthink it. The single best thing you can do is make sure your strips are really thin. Mine were around 1/8. I just wrapped saran wrap around it, no tape, and after it had settled down, I sliced open the saran wrap so the glue would dry all the way. I left them for two or three days, and when I took them off, there was very little spring back.

kkCiOWg.jpg
 
I'm finding this build interesting. Makes sense that thinner plys are more flexible, and that layered grains of differing orientations add strength. Like plywood? I wonder if wetted wood attains less glue bond than dry? How important is glue absorption?
 
I wouldn't overthink it. The single best thing you can do is make sure your strips are really thin. Mine were around 1/8. I just wrapped saran wrap around it, no tape, and after it had settled down, I sliced open the saran wrap so the glue would dry all the way. I left them for two or three days, and when I took them off, there was very little spring back.

kkCiOWg.jpg
I remember reading your post when you built yours. Yep maybe your fault Mem. I figured if you could do it, I could too. Ha Well it'll work out. I had my strips a little on the heavy side of 1/8 thick, maybe more like 3/16? My quality of wood selection probably could've been better.

I just finished my bow stem today. It went a lot better then the stern.IMG_20230825_181055638.jpg
I added a piece of 7/16 osb to each side of my stem form. This made it about the same a my strip width.
Roy
 
Did you put fiber reinforced strapping tape on the outside radius of the outside strip as Nick Schade does? I can't tell from the pictures.
Yes I did this time. I think it helped? That roll of fibered strapping tape was 6 bucks! Good grief. I'm sure I'll find other uses for the rest of it. I'll probably have to use the rest for redoing my stems.
Roy
 
Setting up my forms.IMG_20230904_114655025.jpg I have made an error when I made my inner stem. IMG_20230904_114621344.jpg
Stem thickness is 7/8" thick. Any ideas what I should do? Remake the stems?
I sure do some stupid things sometimes.
Roy
 
I had a similar situation (post # 31 on my build thread) and after some great advice lowered the stem form the appropriate amount. If you do that the end of the interior stem inside the canoe will be 7/8 inch high instead of 3/4. You could leave it or work it down to 3/4 inch at that point.

Rick
 
I had a similar situation (post # 31 on my build thread) and after some great advice lowered the stem form the appropriate amount. If you do that the end of the interior stem inside the canoe will be 7/8 inch high instead of 3/4. You could leave it or work it down to 3/4 inch at that point.

Rick
I wondered about that. I went back and re-read your post, after you mentioned it. I just screwed up and made them to thick. Just stupidity. I can easily recut my stems. Thanks for advice. Lining up my forms right now. I'm also waiting on my bandsaw blade so I can cut the taper on my stems. Bandsaw blade been struck in New Jersey post office for 6 days now???
 
Eew, lots of screws and staples, but it'll be ok. Maybe? Anyhow is this messed up idea I had with a strange flow of strips on the bow going to work? or is it just a Picasso brain fart I had. I'm afraid it's going to pop like a chubby girls girdle when I break it loose?IMG_20231002_171331277.jpg

It'll look cool 😎 if it works.
 
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