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Ramp for Car Topping

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Nov 14, 2018
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SW OH - Land of Opaque Water
I’ve been loading my heavy canoe by using a step ladder. I only need to carry the canoe up two rungs before transferring it to the crossbars. It occurs to me that this is a risky technique, especially when alone. A steep ramp, possibly with a level top would be safer I think, wider than the rungs, not too heavy or cumbersome. Anyone use such a method? Any ideas on a ramp?
 
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I've never used them to load canoes but I have some plastic car ramps that might work. They are very portable but it's really hard to find any that give you more than 6 inches of lift. These look like they'd give you 9 inches (mine are about 10 but I can't find them anywhere)


I suppose you could add legs under one or both legs to gain more elevation but then you'd be less stable.

This would get you up 13 inches (and it's folding) but it would be all in one step

 
One of my regular very accomplished canoeing partners is a rather short petite woman. She transports her canoe on top of a very tall van. Although she has done the job by herself when solo, beginning with use of a short step ladder she always carries in the van and getting the bow started up on the rack before sliding the rest mostly from the ground. in general, she has no problem getting volunteers to assist.
 
Can you place one end on the bars behind your car? I'd so, do that and just slide the rear end forward. I even do that on my truck pop up camper.
That's about the only way to do it with a heavy boat, or a very tall roof rack. Then hand over hand overhead lift and slide up and forward by two hands on the gunwales. I have used that method many times with a 34' 125+ pound strip voyageur on my F250.

What I do not like about this method is the stern deck plate drags on the ground, so I try to do it with the stern resting in grass, not when resting on gravel or pavement.
voyageur canoe truck.jpeg
 
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Don't know if you'd be willing to change out your front bar rack but on mine, I can bring the bar out past the truck about 3'. Having the bar extended out like that allows me to lift the bow onto the rack by myself. I then go to the stern, lift that and place it on the rear bar. After the canoe is where I want it on the rack, I readjust the front bar back into place so nothing hangs out. I got this rack piece a few years ago when my new truck turned out to be 3" higher than I could easily reach. Bottom line, this has made loading/unloading my boat by myself, especially easy.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
When I owned a VW Eurovan I usually provided the trip vehicle carrying two canoes, gear and four paddlers. I would load my canoe without assistance using a step stool. This was necessary due to the height of the van. I kind of viewed the balance required to do this as a form of exercise. I no longer have the van, miss it as it was a great road trip vehicle but definitely don’t miss solo loading my canoe on it. And as I close in on 80, balancing a canoe on my shoulders on a step stool or ladder strikes as me not a good idea.
 
70” bars on my Explorer. The problem is the boat is 35” wide, and the carriers are near the end, so I have to lift it about 3” over the carriers to get the gunnels on the crossbars. The antenna prevents me from moving the carriers farther over.

Yes, I can slide it on the crossbars from the rear if I have to. Hard on the crossbars though, and much slower. Solo boats are more narrow so there’s room for their gunnels on the end of the crossbars, then move it over the carriers. The Esquif Echo 2 is 15 lbs lighter and only 32” wide.

Hopefully, the step stool will arrive quick and I won’t die trying to load this plastic beast.
 
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Yes, I can slide it on the crossbars from the rear if I have to. Hard on the crossbars though, and much slower. Solo boats are more narrow so there’s room for their gunnels on the end of the crossbars, then move it over the carriers. The Esquif Echo 2 is 15 lbs lighter and only 32” wide.
Don't worry about the crossbars. I have Yakimas, and I've been doing the slide over for many years, mostly with solo boats with aluminum gunnels.. Haven't worn them out, or put divots in them yet. Beats falling.
 
70” bars on my Explorer. The problem is the boat is 35” wide, and the carriers are near the end, so I have to lift it about 3” over the carriers to get the gunnels on the crossbars. The antenna prevents me from moving the carriers farther over.

Yes, I can slide it on the crossbars from the rear if I have to. Hard on the crossbars though, and much slower. Solo boats are more narrow so there’s room for their gunnels on the end of the crossbars, then move it over the carriers. The Esquif Echo 2 is 15 lbs lighter and only 32” wide.

Hopefully, the step stool will arrive quick and I won’t die trying to load this plastic beast.
Many racks allow you to pop the endcap off one end on the front bar and insert a hockey stick (except my new #^#%&$ Thule wing-bars) so it sticks out a couple of feet- you just put the bow up on it, walk back along the gunnels, and lift the back over, you can even straight arm it if needed. Pull out and store the stick, pop the cap back on, and tie it down...
 
I’ve been loading my heavy canoe by using a step ladder. I only need to carry the canoe up two rungs before transferring it to the crossbars. It occurs to me that this is a risky technique, especially when alone. A steep ramp, possibly with a level top would be safer I think, wider than the rungs, not too heavy or cumbersome. Anyone use such a method? Any ideas on a ramp?
How about something like this (sorry I'm not sure how to make this an active link): https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=truck+ramp
 
I load my solo clipper onto my pick-up canopy using a small carpet with a non-slide bottom laid on the rear of canopy. Canoe slides right onto the rack.
 
The step stool arrived and is just what the ER doctor ordered! Wide steps are much easier than the narrow ladder rungs, without the shin bone killer. About like stepping up on a rock when portaging, but not as slippery or slanted.

If I were to build one for canoeists, I’d make the step boards out of real wood (these are particle board with plastic anchors) and the whole stool 3” wider. I’d also ditch the anti-skid strips and texture the whole step. Looks like a winter project.

I’ll get a video using it when the wife is around and willing to be the camera operator.
 
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