Jim, I think you fill the staple holes with wood glue correct? Do you do this before or after the initial rough sanding. I would think you'd rather fill then do the rough sand.
Mark
Mark
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Pearl
- Thread starter Jim Dodd
- Start date
Yes ! After a lot of experiment, I found that Elmer's MAX. cosmetically did the best job ! I fill after the rough sand, as I'm afraid it will be removed by the time I get to the finish sand !
I do the rough sand first, then apply Elmers with a pencil tip style cap. Takes very little glue. It's something I already have. I will press the glue into the holes with a plastic gloved finger.
The first pic is with Elmer's Max, the other is with plain epoxy, applied about an hour after the seal coat, to insure a good seal.It works to seal the holes, but not hide them.
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Well I've been Patiently waiting on the "January Thaw !"
It arrived today ! Last week, it was -20 F. this week, mid 30 s. Hard to believe, but Happy for it !
Pearl has been waiting also, so I took her outside for a rough sand !
I love Stemless construction ! The looks and ease of building.
The stands make it easy to sand the tumblehome.
Tomorrow, fill knots, and staple holes.
Here's some pics
.
It arrived today ! Last week, it was -20 F. this week, mid 30 s. Hard to believe, but Happy for it !
Pearl has been waiting also, so I took her outside for a rough sand !
I love Stemless construction ! The looks and ease of building.
The stands make it easy to sand the tumblehome.
Tomorrow, fill knots, and staple holes.
Here's some pics
.
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Another January thaw, and the time is ripe for glassing my Pearl.
Problem is, the E-glass I have is of the Volan variety, not the Silane , that wets out better with epoxy. I ordered more E-glass, of the Silane type glass, yesterday. So now I'm on hold with Pearl, until that arrives..
So I'll start working on a seat
Jim
Problem is, the E-glass I have is of the Volan variety, not the Silane , that wets out better with epoxy. I ordered more E-glass, of the Silane type glass, yesterday. So now I'm on hold with Pearl, until that arrives..
So I'll start working on a seat
Jim
Thanks Alan !
I'll Wait RAKA Out.
I will say RAKA just lost a cloth a customer!
Shipping for 17 yards of cloth, was about $45, almost half the cost of the cloth. Buyer Beware !
Their policy is not to quote shipping, until the package is actually shipped. So you are stuck.
On the Plus side, it will come rolled, instead of folded. That was part of the extra charge. Anything over 10 yds has to be shipped Rolled.
Jim
I'll Wait RAKA Out.
I will say RAKA just lost a cloth a customer!
Shipping for 17 yards of cloth, was about $45, almost half the cost of the cloth. Buyer Beware !
Their policy is not to quote shipping, until the package is actually shipped. So you are stuck.
On the Plus side, it will come rolled, instead of folded. That was part of the extra charge. Anything over 10 yds has to be shipped Rolled.
Jim
I was Shocked at RAKA's shipping charges, as it turns out, several companies won't divulge shipping prices until item is processed. The ones that will tell you, are almost as high as RAKA.
In all fairness, RAKA may not be that far out of line.
Shipping has gone Crazy ! I'm still shocked !
Jim
In all fairness, RAKA may not be that far out of line.
Shipping has gone Crazy ! I'm still shocked !
Jim
Jim, it's cheaper if you have things sent to a commercial address from Raka. I don't remember how much it saved me, but it was cheaper to have epoxy and glass sent to a friends business.
Mark
Mark
I could have done that. Next time, I think I'll order two separate packages, and have the cloth folded. 17 yds was too much to have folded, according to their website.
I realize it costs more beings it was Rolled. I'll be a little smarter next time !
Thanks !
Tuesday afternoon, 6 oz cloth arrived from RAKA. It came rolled, as promised, I rolled out a layer, This morning , and it was flawless. Thanks RAKA !
Temps in the shop were above 70 F and the hull temp was 68 F. At that time the temps were still rising, so I started mixing. I always get everything lined up.
Epoxy, marked cups, mix sticks,rollers,gloves,and 3M Carbon filter .
I premarked a bunch of cups. First mark, 6 oz, second mark 9 oz. I filled 6 cups with resin, to the 6 oz mark, before I start to mix. That way, I only have to pump in 3 oz of hardener, and mix, to get a 9 oz batch ! Saves a lot of time, when you are working alone !
I only use one pump, and that goes on the hardener, This prevents me from making mistakes !
I use a Hair Drier to warm the epoxy, while I'm mixing. You can really tell that the warming helps viscosity !
Temps in the shop were above 70 F and the hull temp was 68 F. At that time the temps were still rising, so I started mixing. I always get everything lined up.
Epoxy, marked cups, mix sticks,rollers,gloves,and 3M Carbon filter .
I premarked a bunch of cups. First mark, 6 oz, second mark 9 oz. I filled 6 cups with resin, to the 6 oz mark, before I start to mix. That way, I only have to pump in 3 oz of hardener, and mix, to get a 9 oz batch ! Saves a lot of time, when you are working alone !
I only use one pump, and that goes on the hardener, This prevents me from making mistakes !
I use a Hair Drier to warm the epoxy, while I'm mixing. You can really tell that the warming helps viscosity !
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Finished Glassing Pearl, at 2 AM this morning, Yes 2 AM ! I started glassing, at 10:25 Thursday.
A Shocker for me ! NO SEAL COAT ! I've seal coated every canoe until now. I had the staple holes filled, Elmers MAX, did great. Filled all the knots, butt joints, and little gaps, so I thought I'd forgo the Seal coat.. I had just a few small spots, that weeped away a little resin, but I got them filled. All in all, it was one of my better glass jobs !
Wetting out the 6 oz cloth, took 54 oz.. By the time I was done with the extra layer of 6 oz, on the bottom, two Bias strips on the ends, and three fill coats, I used pretty close to a gallon of resin.
I scraped the edge of the extra layer, and the Bias strips this afternoon. Good to Scrape soon after glassing, as the soft resin feathers easy !
Pearl is done for a while, as I prep her to be used as a male mold, for Black Pearl ! I have Carbon left, and will need to order some Kevlar, and S- glass.
For now I need to Cover Pearl with a partial plastic, and then a release agent, probably Partal.
A few pics.
Pearl
A Shocker for me ! NO SEAL COAT ! I've seal coated every canoe until now. I had the staple holes filled, Elmers MAX, did great. Filled all the knots, butt joints, and little gaps, so I thought I'd forgo the Seal coat.. I had just a few small spots, that weeped away a little resin, but I got them filled. All in all, it was one of my better glass jobs !
Wetting out the 6 oz cloth, took 54 oz.. By the time I was done with the extra layer of 6 oz, on the bottom, two Bias strips on the ends, and three fill coats, I used pretty close to a gallon of resin.
I scraped the edge of the extra layer, and the Bias strips this afternoon. Good to Scrape soon after glassing, as the soft resin feathers easy !
Pearl is done for a while, as I prep her to be used as a male mold, for Black Pearl ! I have Carbon left, and will need to order some Kevlar, and S- glass.
For now I need to Cover Pearl with a partial plastic, and then a release agent, probably Partal.
A few pics.
Pearl
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Nice work Jim. I can't wait to see how the CF comes out. You guys amaze me with this kind of boat building. I'll stick to punching out dents in RX boats and patching a bunch of holes. More my speed!
dougd
dougd
Everybody has their thing !
Watched a guy walk a Tight Rope across Niagara Falls ! Not for Me !
Jim
Jim, Is a gallon of resin more than you usually use on this boat?
Mark
Mark
I don't think so ! All that is left, is to glass a single layer on the inside, and I'm sure I could do the inside with a half gallon. Making a total of 1 1/2 gallon for the entire boat.
I'm sure not seal coating saved some resin !
I really like to get a complete fill of the weave, and a gallon was plenty !
Jim
Prepping Pearl for her Male Mold duty.
I SCRAPE to feather the edges of the extra layer, and the bias strips, within a day of glassing, while the resin is pretty soft ! This makes it pretty easy.
Here's a few pics.
Note the weave is visible. Varnish will make that near invisible !
I SCRAPE to feather the edges of the extra layer, and the bias strips, within a day of glassing, while the resin is pretty soft ! This makes it pretty easy.
Here's a few pics.
Note the weave is visible. Varnish will make that near invisible !
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Nice Jim ... looking forward to watching the new Black Pearl layup.
When I feather the edges I like to put on a little more epoxy to seal the exposed glass, just to be sure it is all sealed up tight. I read somewhere that using varnish to seal/cover exposed glass isn't always reliable ... haven't used varnish to seal, have always sealed with epoxy .... so I am just passing on something I read, not actual experience.
Brian
When I feather the edges I like to put on a little more epoxy to seal the exposed glass, just to be sure it is all sealed up tight. I read somewhere that using varnish to seal/cover exposed glass isn't always reliable ... haven't used varnish to seal, have always sealed with epoxy .... so I am just passing on something I read, not actual experience.
Brian
Hi Brian
Yes I have a few new tricks for Black Pearl, that I'm excited about !
Don't believe everything you Read, unless it has Pictures ! Ha !
I have done it this way on nearly every canoe, and when I try and point it out to people, I can't find the lines. Can you tell me where the extra layer starts? It has one, and two Bias layers on the stems.
Yes I have a few new tricks for Black Pearl, that I'm excited about !
Don't believe everything you Read, unless it has Pictures ! Ha !
I have done it this way on nearly every canoe, and when I try and point it out to people, I can't find the lines. Can you tell me where the extra layer starts? It has one, and two Bias layers on the stems.
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Able to spend a little Quality Sanding time with Pearl today ! I love tipping the strongback, to sand the tumblehome area ! I can't believe, it took me this many years to figure this out !
Again Sanding FULLY cured resin is SOO much easier, I hooked up a shop vac, and I give that some of the credit. It might not be as easy to use on the inside. We'll see !
And Pearl is off the Forms ! Spent a few minutes, scraping dried glue on the inside.
Note the New Cardboard. It is a lot easier to stand on, and when I drop tools (tape measures, staplers) They don't break !!!
Here are some pics.
Again Sanding FULLY cured resin is SOO much easier, I hooked up a shop vac, and I give that some of the credit. It might not be as easy to use on the inside. We'll see !
And Pearl is off the Forms ! Spent a few minutes, scraping dried glue on the inside.
Note the New Cardboard. It is a lot easier to stand on, and when I drop tools (tape measures, staplers) They don't break !!!
Here are some pics.
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