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Jack's Special/ Chestnut Chum

Got up early this morning and put a seal coat on the canoe. I'll fiberglass tonight. I don't always put a seal coat on, but the cedar was so dry, and the double layering on the bottom of the hull made me think that I might end up with some areas being starved for resin.

 
Hey! Look at that! Very nice.

I decided I'll be doing a seal coat from now on as well. Hoping to cut down on the amount of bubbles in the laminate.

Will the resin still be green enough for a chemical bond or will you have to sand? I know the strength and bond is supposed to be better with a seal coated hull but I've always wondered if that's true when the seal coat is allowed to completely cure. Almost seems being applied directly to the wood, as long as it's not starved, would be stronger. I have no claims or data to back up either argument. I really don't know, just thinking out loud.

Thanks for the stem explanation a couple responses ago, that makes sense.

Alan
 
I've made so many canoes in so many "wrong" ways now, and I can't say I have ever noticed a difference in strength. To qualify that.....sometimes life gets in the way of completing fiberglassing all at once. There have been several times when I wet out the cloth and then couldn't get the fill coats on for a week or two. Didn't bother sanding, just wiped off dust and applied. Canoes still going strong ten years later. Silvertip, by system three, claims that one can wait 72 hours between coats and still not have to sand. I like silver tip, but I can't really see what would make it different for any other epoxy in terms of wait times. They are all very similar.

Anyway, I forgot that I have a work related meeting tonight, so I might not be able to fiberglass till tomorrow night....we'll see. Clear Coat has a real long set up time anyway, so if I have to wait till tomorrow night, I probably won't sand.

I normally don't put a seal coat on, but I noticed the last time I used really dry western cedar, it soaked up the epoxy like crazy, and left some parts on the canoe where the pattern of the cloth was showing through. We'll see what happens this time, it's always a surprise, cause I'm working with the good 'nough philosophy.
 
One trick I learned from the shop teacher about bubbles in the epoxy...he ran a blow torch over the epoxy while it was still wet, took the bubbles right out. I usually take a heat gun to it very briefly, I'm not brave enough for the blow torch.
 
One of the technician at West system, told me if you could heat up the surface to be glassed/epoxied before applying the resin, it would limits the bubbling effect... He said that even putting the piece in a black garbage back in the sun to heat up would help. I know it is not really practical for a canoe, but I think that the idea behind the blow torch is the same!!
 
The hot air gun or blowtorch works. I think a seal coat and good shop temp control is more important. The seal coat blocks the pores in the wood so air in the pores can't migrate into the finish. The shop should be cooling as you work so any trapped air in the wood will be reducing in volume, so the air doesn't make it into the finish. Ideally I try to start working around 80f so the epoxy is nice and thin so it wets out the fabric better.
 
Thanks for the link, he has some interesting theories, some I agree with, others I'm not sure about. I'm hoping to do the wet out coat on the fiberglass tonight.
 
Spread the cloth on this morning, going to get on it right after work. You can see the football, this canoe will be fairly bombproof.
 
I'm a big fan of system three epoxy, especially Clear Coat, it has to be the best one out there for wetting out. Tonight will be a challenge for it. The temperature is crazy right now, howling winds, dropping to -44 overnight. The wind blows right in the shop doors and fights against the heater. I looked up the specs for Clear Coat, it said a minimum temperature for use was 60 degrees F. Lazer temperature thingy said the canoe hull was 65, it sure felt cooler in there though. Anyway, wet out coat is done, if I get up the courage to go out, I'll check it once more tonight.
 
Wow, that system three is good stuff, keeps on proving to me that it is the best stuff out there. Checked it out this morning, set up like a rock. Going to go to the hardware store today and get some small rollers to put the fill coats on with.
 
Looks great. For whatever reason I really like the way they look at this point, probably even more than after the weave is filled. I like the textured weave and the satin finish it creates. Looks nice, feels nice, and sounds nice.

Alan
 
Going to go to the hardware store today and get some small rollers to put the fill coats on with.

Mem, when you roll the fill or final coats do you need to tip it out with a brush? I have tried a variety of rollers but always seem to get a better finish if I tip it out.

It may be that my roller work sucks, but my brush work isn’t that great either.
 
Yes I always tip it out with a foam brush. I'm working in such cold temperatures right now it's difficult to get a perfect finish. Rolled on the first fill coat last night, try to get it all done in the next day or two.
 
Put the last fill coat on this morning. Now it's going to have to sit for six weeks, as on Wednesday I have to have some bones fused in my foot, no working for 6 weeks....gonna drive me crazy, but I should still be able to get finished for ice out.



 
Oooweee, she's a pretty one. Nice work Mem!
I bet you can't wait to get it off the form.
Good luck with your surgery. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Momentum
 
Wow, that boat is really going to be a change for you! It is so round, she oughta be really responsive to your paddle.
 
Looks great. Nice looking finish.

How many fill coats does it take for you? Silvertip is pretty thin, correct? Once the weave is filled do you call it good or put on one or two extra?

I ask because I've always used just enough to fill the weave (about 3 coats) but on my last two, when sanding the epoxy smooth, I've started cutting into the fiberglass in spots. So I'm thinking I either need an extra fill coat or two or I need to start with a better finish that requires less sanding.

And good luck with the surgery. Not being able to do anything for 6 weeks doesn't sound very enjoyable. Hopefully the end result will be worth it!

Alan
 
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