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I had gone over to the shop the day after glassing and used a utility knife to cut away the cloth that hung past the sheer and Monday I pulled it off the forms
The first order of business, at that point was to smooth the sharp edges of the glass at the sheer line so I installed the cradles on the strongback, gently moved the canoe onto them and rasped the sharp edge level with the sheer strip
That done, I could work on the inside without worrying about getting cut and I removed all of the tape strips then used the surform rasp to knock off the glue drops and level any high spots. I rasped in a cross-hatch pattern and it took about an hour to do the whole canoe.
I also did the face of the float tank panel the same way, then sanded it with the orbital and 40 grit paper. Honestly; feeling the float tank after the 40 grit, I'm wondering if I need to go any finer.
I mean, I openly detest sanding and the inside is the worst but... the epoxy will self-level so it should have a decent ability to cover scratches, I only do a wet-out coat on the inside as I want some texture on the glass for better grip and it seems that there would be more "tooth" with 40 grit.
Do you think I could get away with making sure the strip edges are level but not sanding beyond 40 grit?
Another decision that will need to be made is the seat:
I have been hoping to use the first one that I made for the Raven (then cut too short) and I have been mounting seats to tabs epoxied to the hull so that the seat acts as lateral support. I've been able to eliminate some thwarts but doing that and figured that I'd do the same here. The only issue is that the tumblehome moves the sheer inboard enough that I can't wiggle the seat in without flexing the hull quite a bit.
To be sure, I could flex it, drop the seat in and leave it loose in there while I finish the trim but I like the seat removable in case it needs repaired or replaced and my gunwales, as well as the thwart will be both glued and screwed so flexing the hull to remove the seat will not be possible once the boat is complete.
Alan had done a pedestal seat but I'm not a fan of pedestals or buckets. I guess I could hang from the gunwales but that would mean a second thwart since the seat will not provide any support.
I could also bring something up from the floor, attach it to the sides at the appropriate height and mount the seat to those (like brackets on each side) and I may gain the advantage of an adjustable seat that way. I'd also be likely to add a couple of pounds (not a deal-breaker if not overdone, I guess)
My granddaughter's first birthday party is on Sat and my daughter needs help baking & getting ready so I'll have a few days to consider options. Opinions are appreciated.
(opinions about the canoe, not my baking ability or the wisdom of asking my help for party prep. Maybe I shouldn't have to be specific but I've been around here long enough that I've come to expect some of you to misbehave.)
The first order of business, at that point was to smooth the sharp edges of the glass at the sheer line so I installed the cradles on the strongback, gently moved the canoe onto them and rasped the sharp edge level with the sheer strip
That done, I could work on the inside without worrying about getting cut and I removed all of the tape strips then used the surform rasp to knock off the glue drops and level any high spots. I rasped in a cross-hatch pattern and it took about an hour to do the whole canoe.
I also did the face of the float tank panel the same way, then sanded it with the orbital and 40 grit paper. Honestly; feeling the float tank after the 40 grit, I'm wondering if I need to go any finer.
I mean, I openly detest sanding and the inside is the worst but... the epoxy will self-level so it should have a decent ability to cover scratches, I only do a wet-out coat on the inside as I want some texture on the glass for better grip and it seems that there would be more "tooth" with 40 grit.
Do you think I could get away with making sure the strip edges are level but not sanding beyond 40 grit?
Another decision that will need to be made is the seat:
I have been hoping to use the first one that I made for the Raven (then cut too short) and I have been mounting seats to tabs epoxied to the hull so that the seat acts as lateral support. I've been able to eliminate some thwarts but doing that and figured that I'd do the same here. The only issue is that the tumblehome moves the sheer inboard enough that I can't wiggle the seat in without flexing the hull quite a bit.
To be sure, I could flex it, drop the seat in and leave it loose in there while I finish the trim but I like the seat removable in case it needs repaired or replaced and my gunwales, as well as the thwart will be both glued and screwed so flexing the hull to remove the seat will not be possible once the boat is complete.
Alan had done a pedestal seat but I'm not a fan of pedestals or buckets. I guess I could hang from the gunwales but that would mean a second thwart since the seat will not provide any support.
I could also bring something up from the floor, attach it to the sides at the appropriate height and mount the seat to those (like brackets on each side) and I may gain the advantage of an adjustable seat that way. I'd also be likely to add a couple of pounds (not a deal-breaker if not overdone, I guess)
My granddaughter's first birthday party is on Sat and my daughter needs help baking & getting ready so I'll have a few days to consider options. Opinions are appreciated.
(opinions about the canoe, not my baking ability or the wisdom of asking my help for party prep. Maybe I shouldn't have to be specific but I've been around here long enough that I've come to expect some of you to misbehave.)
