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Recommendations for fixed blade knife

Well, my Mora came in yesterday. Smart-arse first impressions are as follows: it doesn't cut onions or tomatoes worth a dang. In fact, worst onion cutter ever.

I've tried to stay out of this but I'm not a fan of the scandi grind. Even a convex grind is going to slice better then a blunt scandi grind. Imagine trying to notch tent pegs. It's going to take a lot of force to push that edge into wood. OK for cutting up meat cause it's going to give way to the blade. Open bags fine I'm sure. I like the scandinavian profiles and handles, just not the blade grinds. Dave
 
I never knew memaquay ate vegetables. Doesn't sound very northern carnivorous to me? Must be all that time spent in his backyard men's yoga holitic retreat. (Pass the kale chips and hummus.)
 
Pulled the Mora out of the sheath to show my wife this morning, imagine my disgust when I saw this....



The picture does not do it justice. The black coating is peeling off both sides and there are several major rust spots. I washed the knife and dried it after use last night.

Wow, overnight!!!

I was considering one the inexpensive Moras for family camp kitchen use, when we do meal prep more involved than my usual boil water and rehydrate.

Methinks not.
 
Originally posted by memaquay View Post
Pulled the Mora out of the sheath to show my wife this morning,



Whoa, whoa, whoa! We don't need to hear about that!

Ha ha, dang that had me laughing pretty good, I think we need to add you to Rippy's "needs to be watched" list.

I emailed the place I bought it from, I'll let you know what they say.
 
Well, I heard back from BushcraftCanada, the place I ordered it from, no offer to take it back. Not impressed, and won't be doing business with them again. Guess I'll look up Mora and see what they have to say.
 
Hmm, that was where I was doing all my internet window shopping for blades. 4 of them to be exact. I'm disappointed they weren't more helpful. The overhead on this one item to be replaced must be nearly 0, but still, that's what customer service should be all about? No? I still suspect the carbon steel to be the culprit. Did it come with directions for care and cleaning?
 
All this knifey business has made me think about buying a better food prep blade for family camp kitchen use. So I’m going back a few pages to ask again.

Mora seems to have a lot of relatively inexpensive choices, including stainless. A question for MadMike or anyone who has a Mora stainless – how rustproof is Mora’s stainless?
 
Ha ha, dang that had me laughing pretty good, I think we need to add you to Rippy's "needs to be watched" list.

Nothing wrong with Alan or his sense of humor as far as I can tell. I rather liked it. And after all, he's a fellow Iowan. Brad's the one to watch, what with his talking dirty to the trees and all. Alan and I may just have to tag team it to keep you crazy canucks in line.

Brad, don't let Mem sh*t you, the only vegetable he takes in is barley.
 
Well, I heard back from BushcraftCanada, the place I ordered it from, no offer to take it back. Not impressed, and won't be doing business with them again. Guess I'll look up Mora and see what they have to say.

Your experience is interesting and surprising. Moras are generally held in very high regard by serious knife people on the net, even those who strongly prefer convex grinds. They also usually have the reputation of being very sharp out of the box. My two were.

There are a few issues going on.

- The type of steel. Carbon steel rusts and there are many reports of carbon knives rusting overnight in wet climates or in wet sheaths. Many users prefer carbon steel because they feel it holds an edge longer than stainless steel and is more easily sharpened. Some Moras come in both carbon and stainless options, and I chose stainless because that's what I prefer. I wouldn't want a carbon steel knife.

- The rust. It formed where there were voids in the DLC coating. It can be sanded or ground off with a stone. So can the coating, which is there primarily to inhibit rust. Then the blade will have to be dried and oiled after every use. The question is why were there voids in the coating simply from slicing some vegetables. That sounds near impossible. It had to have come from the factory with a defectively pitted or scratched coating.

- The grind. Moras are famous for their Scandi grind sharpness. Scandi is the easiest to sharpen because it only has one big bevel, which you can lay flat on a stone. The Bushcraft Black Carbon model has the widest spine thickness of any Mora, so the apex angle may be greater (hence duller) than on any other Mora if the grind starts low. You'll have to sharpen and maybe reprofile it.

I wouldn't have bought that Bushcraft model unless I was intending to use it for batoning and wood chopping tasks. That's the purpose of the thick and long (for a Mora) blade. For a kitchen, fish filleting and general use cutting knife, one of the thinner Moras in stainless steel, like the classic model now known as the Companion, is probably a better choice. I like my Companion a lot so far for kitchen and general home use, but it's not going to be my chopping, batoning, prying, hole drilling, beer keg opening, bear stabbing, or objet d'art knife.
 
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All these recent sharp discussion have got me rethinking my canoe camping kit. I have four quality folding knives in the 2.9"-3.5" blade range, which I frankly don't use a lot. But I don't have a good fixed blade knife, which would probably make more sense for canoe trips for MY particular needs and applications.

My applications do not include any fishing, hunting or food preparation, or any sophisticated whittling or woodworking.

My applications and needs would mainly be:

1. Occasional splitting of small diameter wood, as I carry a folding saw but no axe.

2. Occasional stripping and shaving of branches or small trunks into tarp poles.

3. Self-defense against man and beast. (Paranoid, yes, but I'm getting old.) So the knife should be a reasonable stabber.

4. Low maintenance, especially around water. I have little interest and great neglect for cleaning, sharpening and polishing.

5. Long enough to do the job but short enough that I can comfortably wear it. If I get a fixed blade, I would want to wear it in and out of the canoe.

6. Reasonable price. Fixed income here. I don't want junk but don't need a Rolls Royce.

I'm not necessarily looking for particular make and model recommendations--though they are welcome--but rather recommendations as to blade shape, blade length, blade steel, handle shape, handle material, and sheath type.

I've not read, and won't read, all 91 of the previous responses.

Cheapest "good knife" I've heard of is the Mora... a "Robust" model would do you well, probably around $15-20 (so requirement #6 is met). In order to split wood (your requirement #1), you really need something just a tad longer than you've listed... 4" is tough to baton with. 4.5" to 5" is easier. This would also make it a little heavier, which would be useful in filling the 2nd requirement, limbing saplings for poles. The Mora is pointy, and would stab someone just fine (#3). Can't remember what the steel type is, but I think the Mora is pretty rust-resistant. It comes in a plastic sheath, which prevents a lot of water from being held against the blade (like a wet leather one will). #5 is up to you... I can't tell you what you will find comfortable... My only suggestion here is maybe to modify the standard sheath with a "dangler" option. I dislike normal sheaths that simply slip onto my belt. I much prefer a dangler, which allows the blade to be tucked out of the way when sitting.

I personally normally use one of three knives, and I seldom wear them, preferring to carry them in my pack. The two I use here in LA (home) are a Fallkniven F1 and a Condor Nessmuk. The F1 is made of VG10 steel, a stainless laminate sandwiching a harder thin layer between two stainless softer layers... the result is a rustfree knife with a razor edge. Hard to sharpen, but the blade stays sharp through an entire deer-skinning process. The blade shape is what is known as a drop-point skinner, and is about 4" long. I don't like long, pointy knives. The F1 is expensive, probably around $125 or so these days. The Swedish Air Force uses it as its pilot survival knife, similar to the way our AF uses the KaBar. The handle is a little thin if you have big hands, as it is made to be used with gloves or mittens on. Mine has a custom handle, but they no longer sell the blank I used to make mine, so you're kind of stuck with the manufactured ones now.

The Condor Nessmuk was slightly modified by its previous owner and shortened just a tad. It started life as a dedicated skinning knife, made popular by mr nessmuk. I like the heavier blade for cutting off squirrel and rabbit limbs, and the wider blade bump provides a good grip when gutting large game (I know, not a requirement. But this part of my post is about what I use and why.) The steel is 1075 or 1095, i can't remember (but it's listed on their web site) and not too hard to maintain. Sharpens well, but not as durable as the VG10. I forget what they cost, but it's not expensive... probably $35 to $50, maybe as high as $75... not sure, as it was a gift.

The third knife is one that I use when I fly up to NY. I got tired of explaining knives in my checked baggage to the wonderful TSA employees, so I bought something to just leave up there with my folks. It's a very old (1960s) Western L66... this is a clip point (pointy) skinner, but since I don't hunt in NY, it's a great fish cleaner and cooking knife around the campfire. I don't know what kind of steel it is (something carbon and REALLY easy to sharpen) but it rusts quickly around canoes... That's the nature of carbon steel... keep it oiled and out of the rain and it's fine. It cost me $26 plus shipping on eBay a few years ago.

So, all that said, I'd refer you to a Condor knife, drop point design, 4.5"-5" long, or a Mora Robust.
 
Seeker, thanks for that long and thoughtful reply.

Had you the time to read the 90+ other posts, you would have seen a lot of discussion about the Fallkniven F1 and S1. The S1 was my top candidate for a while. In the life of this thread, I did buy two Mora's--a Companion for $8 and a Swedish Fire Knife for $18--and reviewed them. But but my real dream girl is on order, and she's not from Sweden.
 
Well Memaquay, I sorry to hear about your Mora knife rusting so quick. It did prompt me to go out to my shed and check my Mora knives (3) they all are carbon steel. That sandwich kind of blade. All are old, one at forty and the other two some wheres around thirty years. They've all been used as good, functional, utility knives. I've never oiled them before putting them up. Just wiped them clean and dry. After checking, as per usual, no rust.

Now, they do have that surface greyish color common to most all iron tools, not shiny like the Bucks.
It would be my guess that the "coating" on the blade must have several imperfections and acted to trap bits of food and water. Maybe try wire-brushing the coating off.
Perhaps that coating is used to hide imperfections in the blade's surface, so they can cut the price down just a little. I do see many knives offered with coated blades, some of them really garish colors. Kinda one of those "good new-bad news" things: the good news is they're easier to find, the bad news is they're harder to loose!

Well, at least, if somebody wants to borrow a knife, now you've got one to loan with few worries.

Best Wishes, Rob
 
Geeze, OM, between you and Rippy, I'm having a hard time not snorting coffee onto the screen this morning. Good to start the day chuckling. I like that idea of using the knife as a loaner, but only to the inlaws, I wouldn't let a friend use a piece of crap like that. I'm still waiting to hear back from Mora.
 
The only Mora that I have in stainless is .super cheap, ( hard blue plastic ) I have never exposed it to salt. Simple water has no effect.
 
Two other knives similar to the F1 is the ESEE-4 and the ENZO Trapper... you can handle a Trapper blank yourself and custom grind it to fit your hand.
 
Since Moras have been mentioned a lot in this thread, here is virtuovice analyzing several Moras and comparing them among themselves and to some other hunting and bushcraft knives. He examines the edges under a microscope and the tangs under X-ray. (Not included, unfortunately, is Memaquay's favorite Mora Bushcraft Black, which is a newer model.)

Virtuovice is my favorite internet knife reviewer and, in my opinion, the one with the most actual experience with knife performance as a hunter and theoretical blade knowledge as a knife tester and reasearcher.


Some background on virtuovice.

He's a cardiovascular surgeon who works only a few days a week so he can devote himself to his hobbies: deer hunting, fishing, knife collecting, and making videos.

Deer season in Hokkaido allows unlimited kills because deer are wildly overpopulated and destroying habitat. Virtuovice sometimes kills three or four deer a day and more than 60 in a season. He videos himself butchering deer and demonstrating which knives are better for what kind of tissue and bone cuts.

His bushcraft is centered around small campfires and his firebox, which he uses every day at home. He has a constant need for split kindling and feather sticks, so he experiments continually with his vast and ever-changing knife collection for their notching, cutting, batoning and feathersticking capabilities.

He's heavily partial to the Bark River knives and their convex blade geometries. However, he continually sharpens and reprofiles blades, because he prefers an assymmetrical grind for hunting and bushcraft--full convex on one side and Scandi (with just a hint of convexity) on the other. The convex geometry slides over bones better without digging in and provides strength for batoning, while the Scandi side is superior for feathersticking.

He often integrates his knife reviews into cooking demonstrations and herb/root gatherings with his family.

Virtuovice is known as JPSikaHunter on his Japanese channel. His signature opening is:

"Hullo, knife people."
 
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....Virtuovice is known as JPSikaHunter on his Japanese channel. His signature opening is:

"Hullo, knife people."

I like him, too. Been watching his stuff for years now. He has a video titled, "My most expensive and cheapest knives" posted in 2011. I found it a few years ago and that was my introduction to the BuckLite Max knives - his cheapest knife. I bought and couple of them back then and it was instant joy. Nice design and performance combined with a price point so low one can lose it without crying and they make great gifts.

The two fixed blade versions are small with a 3.25" blade and the large with a 4" blade. Steel is 420HC stainless, handles are rubber, full tang design. Handle colors are available in black or orange. They both sell right around the $20 mark but can be found on sale at substantial discount. I purchased a dozen of the small version for $11 each. I teach hunter safety courses and we give these as graduation gifts for the youngsters.

The 420HC does a pretty good job in keeping its edge and is easily tuned up. The little knives make a helluva nice fuzzy stick and they carve well. Food service is also within their repertoire. Excellent knives for general duty hunting & skinning chores.

The sheaths are light duty (imported) but the knife & handle design are very nice for making a Kydex sheath. I like to wear the 4" knife in a right cross horizontal carry. Keeps things out of my way and is easier to retrieve if wearing a coat in the field. For work I carry the small knife in a vertical drop sheath with a 180° swivel attachment - comfortable in and out of the truck.

I'm getting ready to make a run of Kydex sheaths for the BuckLite knives for some friends as well as a sheath for my GB hatchet. I'll post a few pics when I do so.

These little econo knives won't get you any braggin' rights but they sure offer a lot of bang for the buck.
 

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Here are my three purchases, my first fixed blade knives since my Boy Scout knife, and my last ones. From top to bottom:

Mora Swedish Fire Knife with Light My Fire firesteel in handle butt -- $18.16

Mora Companion -- $8.75

Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter -- $98.00 for a now $215 MSRP knife. Plus $5 for the laser engraving of my name. I loved the aesthetics of this knife from the first time I saw and handled it, and the discount price I got was too good to ignore. Like my new axe, it's Made in America, which is meaningful to me.

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Thanks to everyone for your helpful and informative suggestions.

My other two finalists ended up being the Fallkniven S1 and the rampless Bark River 1 LT, both of which, however, were impossible to locate nearby for personal examination and are much more expensive than the discounted Benchmade. I also like the buckskin sheath a lot, though I plan on buying a JRE Industries belt dangler for it.
 
Congratulations, Glenn. I hope they treat you well and bring you enjoyment. This was a great thread. I learned a lot and had fun following along.

The Benchmade looks great, BTW.

Alan
 
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