Recommendations for a new whitewater paddle

[Mississippi Mud]

Since I'm starting a new journey toward more whitewater paddling (whitewater tripping is the goal, but there will be several day trips as well), I thought I would splurge for a new paddle sometime in the near future (maybe an early Xmas present to myself). Currently, I'm paddling an OT Cascade with a BB Expedition + and like the paddle tolerably well although I feel it could have more "catch" at the beginning of my stroke. That might be an issue of technique which I'm working on, too. Right now, I don't own any other paddles besides two Carlisles, one of which is my back-up. Honestly, it's only utility has been as a crude shovel, flattening out tent sites and/or burying fire remains on gravel bars. If I'm going to be a self-respecting member of a canoe community, I might as well develop an addiction to purchasing paddles. According to the paddle poll back in 2017 (I think), I'm well behind.

I'm looking for a whitewater-oriented paddle that will help me develop better in-water recoveries and compound strokes. So, t-grip with straight shaft and a thinner edge. Other considerations are a desire for wood at least in the handle and shaft. Weight is not a top consideration with this purchase although it probably will become more important as I age (more paddles!). As well, I'd like to try something other than Bending Branches as I've used those for 20+ years and want to experience something new. I'm open to both a straight and curved blade. Finally, while I'd love to try before I buy, there are no dedicated paddle shops near me so like the majority of canoeists, I'll have to buy unseen.

Right now, I'm looking at Echo, the Werner Journey wood shaft with fiberglass blade (unsure about its whitewater application, though), and the Grey Owl Hammerhead (don't love its pizza peel aesthetic). Sadly, the Mitchell Premier seems to be no longer an option (that would have been the easy solution here). Zap (Stinger) paddles are a possibility, but, like Echo, they are quite pricey. I like to support individual craftsmen, though, so I can justify it if need be.

Are there any other options that I'm missing? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[recped]

I have a Werner Bandit all carbon. It's the paddle I use 90% of the time for whitewater tripping.

Before the Werner I used several Grey Owl Hammerheads and I sometimes take one as an EMERGENCY backup. It's like paddling with a cricket bat in comparison to the Werner (or probably any all carbon). For lily dipping I bring along a light weight all wood Ottertail.

While you say weight is not critical you will find that if you are paddling multi-day long distance trips weight IS an issue.

 

[SouthernKevlar]

Hi Mississippi Mud and welcome to the forum.

Depending on the level of whitewater and type of river, I generally take and use a couple of paddles in my canoe. One is a fairly heavy but very sturdy Dagger fiberglass of a 1990's vintage to use in the whitewater and the other is one of my lighter wood paddles to use in the flats between the rapids. Being in Mid Tennessee I assume that you will be paddling drop/pool type of rivers so you may have have some good distance between rapids.

I love my carbon paddles for flatwater, but have not got up the nerve to invest in one for whitewater yet. When I do it will probably be a ZRE due to the fact that I enjoy several of their light bent (and a gooseneck or double-bent) paddles. If I HAD to replace my old Dagger, I would probably gravitate to the Werner Bandit or Bandito and give a spooned blade a try.

I also would note that you may wish to try a "longer than usual" paddle for your whitewater blade. The extra leverage on braces and the extra reach in the cross strokes can be a lifesaver at times.

Enjoy that whitewater!

 

[SouthernKevlar]

OOPS! The dreaded double-post!

 

[ppine]

Make one. Then you can use stout materials like walnut, ash and mahogany and make the paddle a little heavier to stand up to moving water and rocks.

 

[Mississippi Mud]

Hi Mississippi Mud and welcome to the forum.

Depending on the level of whitewater and type of river, I generally take and use a couple of paddles in my canoe. One is a fairly heavy but very sturdy Dagger fiberglass of a 1990's vintage to use in the whitewater and the other is one of my lighter wood paddles to use in the flats between the rapids. Being in Mid Tennessee I assume that you will be paddling drop/pool type of rivers so you may have have some good distance between rapids.

I love my carbon paddles for flatwater, but have not got up the nerve to invest in one for whitewater yet. When I do it will probably be a ZRE due to the fact that I enjoy several of their light bent (and a gooseneck or double-bent) paddles. If I HAD to replace my old Dagger, I would probably gravitate to the Werner Bandit or Bandito and give a spooned blade a try.

I also would note that you may wish to try a "longer than usual" paddle for your whitewater blade. The extra leverage on braces and the extra reach in the cross strokes can be a lifesaver at times.

Enjoy that whitewater!

Thanks for the reply, SK! The plan right now is to use the new paddle on more difficult rivers which means traveling to the Nantahala, Tuckasegee, and Obed River system in Tennessee. The rivers around here like the Duck, Elk, and Buffalo don't really require a new paddle, but there are a few good places for some practice.

 

[Mississippi Mud]

Make one. Then you can use stout materials like walnut, ash and mahogany and make the paddle a little heavier to stand up to moving water and rocks.

Hey there, ppine. I wish! I can keep a knife sharp and whittle a bit, but making a paddle, sadly, is way outside of my skillset.

 

[ppine]

Mud,
It is not that hard. Glue some blanks, Find a paddle you like and then use it for a guide. I like to use all hand tools.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I'm looking for a whitewater-oriented paddle that will help me develop better in-water recoveries and compound strokes. So, t-grip with straight shaft and a thinner edge.

Missed this thread.

All my whitewater paddles are wood Mitchell Premiers from the 1980s and 1990s, which I still love. Actually, I do have a ZRE straight shaft with their whitewater blade, but I've never actually used it in whitewater. I prefer the Mitchell blade shape for whitewater.

I don't know all the current whitewater paddles, but I'd probably invest in an all carbon paddle today. I've usually heard good things about the Werner Bandit, and I like the look of it, so I'd probably get one of those. They are less expensive than flat water carbon paddles.

If I were a serious racer, I might get a curved blade. But I really like a straight blade better for its symmetrical feel, balanced in-water slicing, and ability to palm roll. Come to think of it, I'm not sure there is a straight blade Bandit.

 

[kona]

If you were in minnesota you could try a pile of different ww paddles I own.

my top suggestion is for you to grab a Werner bandit or bandito as they’re relatively affordable, widely available, and checks your boxes. I don’t think you’d regret having one.

The spoon blade of a bandit paddle will speed up the catch initially, and it’s a pretty big blade so powerful even when only a fraction of the blade is in water due to super shallow water. Bandito is a smaller blade alternative. I enjoy both for ww. I have owned and used the all carbon bandit but it was stressful on my body in a way the fiberglass bandit is not. The bandits are not particularly light but they are well balanced and durable; they wear like a pencil. See my post here for photo examples. If the spoon blade is not interesting to you because you prefer to palm roll, you might consider either the Werner nantahala or their Luna model. I’ve been curious about both. Not sure how smooth the underwater recovery is. I love my all carbon Werner journey. It has a pretty small blade filled with foam, as does the fiberglass one. fine for river use but not suggested for heavy whitewater applications.

Echo paddles are very nice and you could still get a new one, I think. They seem shockingly durable considering their square edge profile. Square tips on wood are prone to damage requiring repairs. Semi / rounded blades reduce damage to those corners and might be preferable if you want to avoid the hunt for someone to repair a damaged corner.

There are a bunch of wood paddles once made by folks that don’t offer them anymore like Backlund, Snyder, Mitchell, Silver Creek. All might be available used occasionally in your area, but they tend to go quick when they do come up.

I’ll try to remember to add some WW paddles to that paddles thread linked above. happy to connect directly too if you want to chat. Hope this helps a bit.

 

[Mississippi Mud]

If you were in minnesota you could try a pile of different ww paddles I own.

my top suggestion is for you to grab a Werner bandit or bandito as they’re relatively affordable, widely available, and checks your boxes. I don’t think you’d regret having one.

The spoon blade of a bandit paddle will speed up the catch initially, and it’s a pretty big blade so powerful even when only a fraction of the blade is in water due to super shallow water. Bandito is a smaller blade alternative. I enjoy both for ww. I have owned and used the all carbon bandit but it was stressful on my body in a way the fiberglass bandit is not. The bandits are not particularly light but they are well balanced and durable; they wear like a pencil. See my post here for photo examples. If the spoon blade is not interesting to you because you prefer to palm roll, you might consider either the Werner nantahala or their Luna model. I’ve been curious about both. Not sure how smooth the underwater recovery is. I love my all carbon Werner journey. It has a pretty small blade filled with foam, as does the fiberglass one. fine for river use but not suggested for heavy whitewater applications.

Echo paddles are very nice and you could still get a new one, I think. They seem shockingly durable considering their square edge profile. Square tips on wood are prone to damage requiring repairs. Semi / rounded blades reduce damage to those corners and might be preferable if you want to avoid the hunt for someone to repair a damaged corner.

There are a bunch of wood paddles once made by folks that don’t offer them anymore like Backlund, Snyder, Mitchell, Silver Creek. All might be available used occasionally in your area, but they tend to go quick when they do come up.

I’ll try to remember to add some WW paddles to that paddles thread linked above. happy to connect directly too if you want to chat. Hope this helps a bit.

Thanks so much, kona. Wish I were closer.

I still haven't made a purchase as of yet, so the search continues. I did find a couple of smaller paddle brands that are popular with the new OC-1 plastic boat crowd: Riversaw and Darter. I'm going to investigate those as well as look for a used Mitchell Premier. I'm trying to stick with wood, primarily for aesthetics and feel but also for the flexibility in the shaft. No sense stressing my shoulders out while I still have some mileage left in them.

If all else fails, I'll be ordering an Echo come spring time.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

There are a bunch of wood paddles once made by folks that don’t offer them anymore like Backlund, Snyder, Mitchell, Silver Creek.

Indeed, those were all classic and great wooden paddles. I also had a wood paddle from Canada called the Nimbus Chehalis, which had a hollow shaft, that I liked a lot. Unfortunately, it went for a permanent swim down the Ashuelot River in New Hampshire around 1986 in the hands of another paddler to whom I had loaned it.

I'm trying to stick with wood, primarily for aesthetics and feel but also for the flexibility in the shaft. No sense stressing my shoulders out while I still have some mileage left in them.

The inflexibility of carbon shafts bothers me on flat water paddles, which is why I ordered both of my ZRE paddles with their flexshaft material. I'm not sure that carbon shafts would bother me as much in paddling a whitewater river since you don't really need to forward stroke with power that often on a typical river run, other than making power moves in rapids. Between rapids, you can often just paddle easily and sort of float along. In other works, flat water touring with a loaded canoe all day long takes a more repetitive toll on my shoulders than does day paddling whitewater rivers (other than those power moves in rapids).

But concern for my shoulder is another reason I'm not a big fan of my Mitchell Premier curved blade paddle vs. my straight blades. As a river tourer/player and not a racer, I never felt I needed the extra and more abrupt grabbing power that the curved blade imparts to my shoulder, especially as I aged.

You might want to take a look at the straight-bladed Sawyer Ranger X or the even more heavy duty Canyon X Guide. Sawyer has been making wood paddles for a very long time, and I like the craftsmanship of my Sawyer flat water Manta bent shaft very much.

 

[goonstroke]

...

Right now, I'm looking at Echo, the Werner Journey wood shaft with fiberglass blade (unsure about its whitewater application, though), and the Grey Owl Hammerhead (don't love its pizza peel aesthetic). Sadly, the Mitchell Premier seems to be no longer an option (that would have been the easy solution here). Zap (Stinger) paddles are a possibility, but, like Echo, they are quite pricey. I like to support individual craftsmen, though, so I can justify it if need be.

Are there any other options that I'm missing? Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a Werner Journey with the composite shaft and the green fiberglass blade. I've beat the crap out of it and it hardly seems to notice, it just kind of erodes a mm or two. I usually bring the Journey and a light(er) bent shaft ZRE, so the former gets the abuse even though it's pretty nice and pretty light. If someone stole my car I'd immediately replace that paddle. Werner makes some nice concave paddles but I've never considered one since with a straight shaft I like a symmetric paddle for the option to palm roll on the recovery. I use a bent shaft ZRE a lot in whitewater (a Black Rec if it's bony), I like the added thrust and quickness. You can do a wicked backferry with a bent shaft.

 

[kona]

Good stroke this is awesome to hear. Werner’s composites and their dynel edge tech has come a long way. I think I’ve been reluctant to beat on mine since it wasn’t cheap and I have other paddles to beat on.

I really love the journey paddle. It’s a smaller blade so an overall length that one person might target ends up being a very long shaft.

 

[kona]

MS mud that sounds great. In my late night reading I missed your original post about wood preference for shaft and grip.

I have two friends with echo paddles. One is their creek stick and I have no idea how it has endured the steep creeking hardcore ww torture he puts it through. Another friend has a lighter duty square tip echo paddle it is very nice.

 

[Mississippi Mud]

MS mud that sounds great. In my late night reading I missed your original post about wood preference for shaft and grip.

I have two friends with echo paddles. One is their creek stick and I have no idea how it has endured the steep creeking hardcore ww torture he puts it through. Another friend has a lighter duty square tip echo paddle it is very nice.

Thanks for the info and that's great to hear. I'm going to end up with--shocker!--several whitewater paddles so that I can figure out my preferences, especially length. I know that the majority of old school ww canoeists favored longer sticks, but the newer trend seems to be toward shorter lengths.

Blade size is also something I need to experiment with to see what I like.

Once I settle on those, I'm hoping an Echo will be my main ww paddle.

 

[kona]

For cruising I have moved to a pretty short paddle. 32” shaft length is perfect for most cruising cases of mine. I like to keep the grip hand at about shoulder height. It just feels good.

For ww I’ve moved to shorter too, though a little longer than for cruising. My preference varies with the boat width and seating height.

Fwiw when I got my journey I was paddling a lot of 56” overall length paddles. I ordered 56” abd 54” both from rei expecting to maybe keep both. The 54” is plenty long, w a 36” shaft. 56” went back. Great paddle in all carbon. I may buy a 52” to go with, at some point.

My newest ww paddle is a custom order just received from Jim Snyder. I got super lucky a few years ago and got in on his last batch of orders. I almost forgot about it until I heard from him in summer. It has similar proportions to my 54” journey. Similar balance too, but almost 2x as heavy.

 

[pblanc]

There has been a trend, which I believe is ongoing, toward spoon-shaped blades by whitewater canoeists. These seem to provide a bit cleaner water entry at the plant, and a bit more security during the catch. Paddles of this type include the Mitchell Premier, Werner Bandit, Aqua Bound Edge, and ZRE Power Curve, all of which I have used and still own. I have never owned and only briefly tried an Echo but I hear good things about them.

Whatever you go with, you definitely want a T-grip. I prefer a composite shaft and blade, although the Mitchell Premier is still among my favorites and it has a wooden blade. I have seen paddles with a carbon-fiber reinforced wooden blade fail catastrophically from what seemed to be relatively minor impacts.

One of the more economical, but still high-quality options is the Aqua Bound Edge.

 

[Black_Fly]

The BB Expedition is a brute. I had one that was a little too short for my prospector. Sold it and had to settle for an Explorer, which is also a tough paddle, softer grip.