paddle sizing

[Chansta]

I've tried using the two most commonly use techniques for paddle sizing, and found that neither works well for me. I'm referring to sitting in the chair with the palm grip on the chair, and using the other method which has you raise your paddle above your head and looking for both arms to be at a 90 degree angle.

After some discussion with others on another forum, I'm thinking there has to be a better way. Would measuring the distance from the waterline to roughly the middle of my head be a decent alternative? The thinking would be that this would determine the approximate shaft length up to the throat as it enters the water.

 

[Cruiser]

Just to make a distinction when talking about paddle sizing, you are actually just determining the shaft length. The blade is not part of the determination.

Personally I use the hands up elbows at 90 degrees, but the caveat is that is only supposed to be a starting point to get you in the ballpark of what works for you.

If you find the measure feels long or short, adjust the number till you find the best solution for you .... that length then becomes your "go to" shaft length when you acquire a paddle. When I do the "hands up elbows 90" measure it comes out at ~32" ... but I like it better a little shorter at 31", so when I build personal paddles, the shaft is 31" ...

Brian

 

[Paddle]

Bending branches recommends estimating size by measuring from your torso. Here are there instructions:

Sit up straight – don’t slouch – on a flat chair. Measure the distance from the surface of the chair between your legs to your nose then they have a table that you go off of (https://bendingbranches.com/blogs/resources/how-size-canoe-kayak-or-sup-paddle-home)

Whether this is better than the other methods I don't know.

 

[snapper]

For what it's worth, I've found the overall length of my paddle is based on the canoe I'm in. Years ago I used to be part of a group that paddled a 24' long Voyageur canoe. We sat pretty high above the water so needed a longer paddle to reach it. When I moved back into my solo boat, I was a lot lower so the paddle length was much shorter.

On average, the blade length will remain pretty much the same so you need to determine the length of the paddle shaft that's needed. Based on how many canoes you might paddle, that will determine your overall length.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper

 

[SouthernKevlar]

It seems that torso length, arm length and sitting height can all vary the "best" paddle length. I use a 54" to 56" straight paddle for solo paddling most of the time, a 50" to 52" bent shaft for speed and tripping, and a 58" to 60" for whitewater paddling. As the canoes differ, so do my paddles.

If you paddles with others, one of the best ways to try different lengths is to swap paddles with your paddling partners. This way you not only get to try different lengths but to see how different paddles feel with their different grips, materials and blade sizes. It is also an inexpensive way to see which paddle puts a smile on your face.

 

[Steve in Idaho]

Yeah, you're not gonna like this, but having different canoes effects your ideal shaft length. And this is why I have similar paddles of more than one length. And the more different canoes one has, the more the paddle collection also tends to grow. It's a little embarrassing.

Also - I've been lucky to find several used carbon bents, as well as wood straights. All the carbon paddles (and some of the wood) came to me excessively long, but cutting them down to size was easy. Doing the same with the wood paddles is a lot more involved and tricky - but there's a cheap and easy way to experiment. Very early in my paddling career, I picked up an aluminum shaft paddle for next to nothing. It was way too long, and I simply cut it down an inch at a time as I got close until I found where I was comfortable. The plastic grip was easy to reinstall each time.

There are adjustable paddles for that, but this method was way cheaper.

 

[Punkinhead]

I've found the rules of thumb get me close, but nothing beats testing on the water with your actual boat. I kneel, so that changes the ideal shaft length vs sitting. I also found that about a 2" shorter shaft fits me better in my new Phoenix vs. my previous couple boats. But at the end of the day, I'm a river paddler and 9-12 miles per day is typical so nailing the optimal length is probably less critical than for someone paddling across lakes from dusk to dawn. I doubt I'd notice much difference if I were a few inches off from optimal.

 

[Chansta]

All great advice. For kicks, I tried both the 90 degree method and the chair method for torso height, as described on the BB website. My favorite paddle has a shaft length that perfectly matches my torso. It looks like 57 is perfect.

I have a WW paddle that is a 59 or 60, which should be a perfect length since it gives more power for draw strokes.
My beavertail paddle is a 61. I'm considering selling this for a shorter paddle, or trading for perhaps a bent shaft.

 

[Dana]

Now I'm falling down this rabbit hole after 60 years of using whatever paddle was available... I guess finally getting my newly restored canoe in the water makes me want "nice things"...

As a recently retired engineer I tend to over-analyze everything. According to the Bending Branches chart and my 28" torso length, I should use a 54" paddle but that's too short... though they do say to add 2-4" for a beavertail, which is what I want. But I think even 58" will be too short.

Yesterday I took four paddles out for my first ride in the new boat.



Starting from the left, #1 is a 66" paddle of unknown origin (I found it under our cabin when we moved in). 66" long with a 36" shaft. It looks a lot like the "Maine Guide Paddle" on the far right of the first post in this thread. #2 is a 60" Shaw & Tenney borrowed from the camp's paddle barrel with about a 33" shaft, #3 is a 57" Feather also from the barrel, and #4 is a 54" Carlisle that I believe my daughter bought... with the same 36" shaft length as the 66" #1.

#3 & 4 I quickly dismissed as too short despite the chart's 54" recommendation... though maybe it was just too-small blades for the windy day. I think I'll retry #4 as a shallow water paddle (mostly I'm paddling in deep water, thus my preference for the beavertail). #1 was a bit too long, though manageable. #2 was perfect or maybe an inch too short when gauging in the boat from eye level too the water. But #1 was also much heavier than #2, I have no idea what kind of wood either are made with.

I plan to make a paddle or two from locally cut ash (same as I used for the canoe restoration). I like the shape of the long paddle and its grip feels perfect to my hand so I'm thinking I'll copy that, but with a 34" shaft and a slightly shorter blade for a total length of 62".



The longer paddle has a 1-1/16 diameter round shaft, while the shorter one is more oval, 1" x 1¼. I haven't decided which I prefer. Also the longer paddle has a slightly asymmetric blade; one side is flat while the other side is slightly convex, though it's subtle and hard to say whether it's intentional.

But realistically I probably won't get around to paddle making until next spring, though I'll probably start picking through the piles of ash for a good straight grained piece (there may be some black walnut left, too...). In the meanwhile, I need to keep my eyes open for a suitable reasonably priced paddle, new or used.

 

[Gamma1214]

I plan to make a paddle or two from locally cut ash

By all means, make a couple from Ash to get the feel of it and get your length in your sweet spot. Then find yourself a nice piece of Sassafras & make the paddle that you'll use all the time. (lighter weight & better flex- you won't be sorry)

 

[boy&hisdogs]

I am someone with odd proportions, I have a long torso and arms but short legs, big palms but small fingers, etc. Sizing is always difficult for me, be it gear, clothes, or anything else.

The paddle over the head, arms at 90 degrees method worked better for me than any other method. That length of paddle is the most comfortable and effective in actual paddling.

 

[lowangle al]

I have come up with a couple formulas for paddle sizing that work pretty well. One is to measure from the tip of your middle finger down the back of your forearm to your funny bone. Multiply this by 3 for a bent shaft and add 6 inches for a straight shaft. Probably the quickest one is to multiply your hat size by 7 for a bent and by 8 for a straight. Right now what is working for me to determine length of a paddle for standing in a canoe is to multiply my waist size by two.

I think these methods work as well as the more established ones. They will give you a ball park idea, and only experimenting will get you closer to what you like. I don't believe in most formulas because there are too many variables, such as boat size, seat hight, goals and conditions. My optimum paddle size can change day to day and sometimes throughout a day.


Dana, I think you have two quality paddles, and two that would only be loaners for me. I would recondition the S&W and the long one. I would use the long one as my second (spare) paddle. It will come in handy if you need to stand or the wind picks up.

To give you an idea of what I use, I'm 5'10" and paddle tandem boats mostly solo with seat height a minimum of 11 inches. Erganomicly a 57" straight works best. In a bigger boat or if the breeze picks up I will go 60". If the 60 inches isn't enough on a windy day I always have my longer back up paddle.