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Northwest Passage Solo
- Thread starter wysedav
- Start date
Hi Dave
Looked at these plans. Like them, and downloaded them awhile back.. I'd just space the forms at 12.5".
I use 16 ' planks, and hate to throw away wood. Should get a 15'9" canoe, or so.
It is very close to my Pearl. You will like the tumblehome, and the flare. The slight rocker is right also.
You should like this design !
Jim
Looked at these plans. Like them, and downloaded them awhile back.. I'd just space the forms at 12.5".
I use 16 ' planks, and hate to throw away wood. Should get a 15'9" canoe, or so.
It is very close to my Pearl. You will like the tumblehome, and the flare. The slight rocker is right also.
You should like this design !
Jim
Dave,
That hull is also similar to my J Winters "Kite" design.
My Kite is very easy to live with...maneuverable, stable, seaworthy, plenty of volume. Forward flare (above the waterline) sheds waves nicely, making for a dry ride. Not the fastest 15 foot solo, but a very comfortable hull for all types of water, big, flat, white, whatever.
That hull is also similar to my J Winters "Kite" design.
My Kite is very easy to live with...maneuverable, stable, seaworthy, plenty of volume. Forward flare (above the waterline) sheds waves nicely, making for a dry ride. Not the fastest 15 foot solo, but a very comfortable hull for all types of water, big, flat, white, whatever.
All right two positive opinions from guys that know better than me. Looks like I'll go for it. I would start the forms this weekend but when I printed the PDFs it came out 20% bigger than expected. I guess I'll rake leaves this weekend and start the boat next week. As a side note, I think I need a boat shed or something. Gotta think about how to sell that to my wife.
Just give her something she wants to get what you want. Compromise, trade, whatever.
Looking back, I wish I had recut a few sets of forms ! Although I have several that I've pulled 4 hulls from. Quick tip. If you use staples, Varnish the edges of the forms,
Dave, it appears that you might be using an internal box beam for a strongback. A Kayak building trick. Cool !
Great progress !
Jim
Dave, it appears that you might be using an internal box beam for a strongback. A Kayak building trick. Cool !
Great progress !
Jim
Nice shop setup, as well as forms. I'm liking the Passage even more !
I helped build a friends boat, in which he blended in a lot of redwood. It came out beautiful ! Redwood is a little brittle, but pretty much knot free. I would use some if I could find it.
Are you planning on bead and coving your strips ? It would make putting it together a lot easier !
Anxious to hear how it preforms as well !
Jim
I helped build a friends boat, in which he blended in a lot of redwood. It came out beautiful ! Redwood is a little brittle, but pretty much knot free. I would use some if I could find it.
Are you planning on bead and coving your strips ? It would make putting it together a lot easier !
Anxious to hear how it preforms as well !
Jim
Just kidding, I'm sitting here trying to decide if I really want to staple or not. Decisions. I really want to paint the outside and kevlar/carbon on the inside but I'm too cheap to spend $150 for just the inside.
I really love the look of this boat (Green Valley Boats - Kite) and think I'm going to copy this.
I really love the look of this boat (Green Valley Boats - Kite) and think I'm going to copy this.
If it helps, I would be the Queen of staple less building and I've got half a pack of staples in the present build. It is the only way I can get the strips to stay in place as I fill in the bottom. Serious torquing going on, I get a couple staples in, move towards the center more and the strip pulls the staples out as I pull the strip into the center. With my plan to pigment the exterior and go clear on the inside it shouldn't matter too much, besides, staple holes are smaller than the ones from blocks and finishing nails.
I figure since I can only see the inside when paddling then the clear finish should be on there, and the outside can be whatever.
I figure since I can only see the inside when paddling then the clear finish should be on there, and the outside can be whatever.
Dave
I've hashed that over many times.
Stapleless takes more time, but produces a prettier boat, up close.
It also has no holes to suck up resin, or leave pin holes in your glass. If I were to go stapleless, I would not do a seal coat. Shouldn't be needed, saving resin..
But I've done staples so long, I'm going with staples again.
You had me going with putting that hull in the water !
I'm curious why you are going over a stripped hull with Kevlar and carbon ? What are your thoughts on it ?
Jim
I've hashed that over many times.
Stapleless takes more time, but produces a prettier boat, up close.
It also has no holes to suck up resin, or leave pin holes in your glass. If I were to go stapleless, I would not do a seal coat. Shouldn't be needed, saving resin..
But I've done staples so long, I'm going with staples again.
You had me going with putting that hull in the water !
I'm curious why you are going over a stripped hull with Kevlar and carbon ? What are your thoughts on it ?
Jim
Dave,
That photo is what made me build my Kite the way I did!!
I built strong (and too heavy) for whitewater use, and planned to have Dynel reinforced stems. Dynel soaks up resin like an old sweatshirt and looks terrible. So, with that photo in mind, I decided to pigment my resin. Several covering coats, much sanding and an automotive clear coat later, I still wasn't satisfied with the aesthetics...so I painted the outside with Interlux something or other. Finally, the hull "pops" the way I thought it should.
If nothing else, the pigmented resin acted as a good primer for the paint.
That is one sharp looking boat. A Kite was my first build and I planned to copy that look until I realized getting a good finish on a solid opaque color was going to be a good deal more difficult and expensive than leaving it natural. So I held onto the idea and waited until my Bloodvein build last winter. I like the look although most people I show the boat to think it's a shame to cover the wood.
I once asked Martin Step how he colored his boats and it was an expensive two part paint (don't remember the brand off hand) rather than tinted resin. I like the tinted resin idea better so that scratches to show a different color. The off white color I used on my Bloodvein turned out to be quite opaque and I don't think you can see the strips showing through anywhere. I believe white tends to cover better than red though.
Alan
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Just to be the dissenting opinion...have you noticed this thing is pretty narrow? I prefer 30-32 inches wide myself as it is more versatile for fishing and lounging about taking pictures, that sort of thing. A short narrow boat with rounded bottom will be fast, but only really stable when moving. Something to think about.
You can get plans from Carrying Place or Bear Mountain with a bit more traditional dimensions. If you want a super nice little solo look at the Jacks Special like Mem built...I tried it and it is for sure a winner.
Christy
You can get plans from Carrying Place or Bear Mountain with a bit more traditional dimensions. If you want a super nice little solo look at the Jacks Special like Mem built...I tried it and it is for sure a winner.
Christy
Well Christy I sure hope you're wrong! Where were you a few weeks ago before i cut the forms! If I keep the seat pretty low I think it will work out ok. The passage seems very similar to the Merlin which seems to be pretty well liked,hopefullythe passage paddles the same.
