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Northwest Cruiser 17 feet build

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Woodtechnic student from Finland here! Starting to build strip canoe. I have few questions: first, can I use two pieces of fiberglasscloth to cover outside of canoe? the pieces would go from front to end and seam is going to be at center of boat with overlapping of about 20-30cm. Second, can I use 110g fiberglass or is 160g better ?

Thanks for answers
 
Congrats on your decision to build a stripper! And welcome to the forum...
Overlapping the cloth along the keel line is no problem, just be sure to blend the seam when you sand it.
As far as 4 oz vs 6 oz (110 gm vs 160 gm) it will depend on you intended usage. Most builders use 1-1/2 layers of whichever, a full layer (overlapped or not) and a half layer to the waterline, both inside and outside. If you think your boat will see rough service, and don't mind an extra few lbs (kgs) then go with the 160. If you be more careful with the boat and prefer a lighter weight build, the go with the 110.
In any case, most wear is from abrasion when landing and launching. If you'll always get your feet wet, then a few BIAS cut strips at the stems would suffice. But, if you want maximum stem protection, be sure to use a layer of Dynel at the stems.
 
Definitely use the 160 g on a 17' boat.

Two pieces of cloth with an overlap in the middle will likely be problematic at the finishing stage. You will end up with one exposed overlap and a second one that is buried under a cloth layer. You can feather the exposed one, but if you feather the buried one, it will compromise the hull strength.

Maybe share the reason for going in 2 pieces .... it makes a lot of extra work and potentially weakens the boat, there is a reason 1 layer is preferred.

Brian
 
Thanks for replies. The cloth is one meter wide and it really is cheap there is more expensive version with width of 1200mm and the canoes maximum beam is 900mm so there is little problem there. I dont mind if the canoe is rough looking. This is my first build so it's more like trial and error.
 
You can put a seam down the middle, pretty easily.

Be sure the cloth you are getting is Silane finish, and not Volan finish, if you are using epoxy.

Sometimes Cheap cloth, is Volan finish.

Jim
 
Okay.

Past two weeks I have made three paddles. here's picture of cnc made one (two of em are handmade).
IMG_20180321_154505.jpg
 
Question is 370mm for middle mold enough for height ? is it called amidships depth?
 
That's 14.5 inches over here...should be plenty. Some of my hulls are only 11 inches deep at the midsection...
How high are the stems? My stems are usually around 14 to 16 inches.

Again, it all depends on your intended usage. If you expect to see lots of rough water, big waves, whitewater, go a bit deeper. If you'll be paddling more protected, calm waters, a little shallower will do. Remember, if you're going to carry that boat, any extra freeboard (peace of mind) is paid for in extra weight.
 
My stems are 18 inch. Is that too high ?

That's what the plans call for, right? I would build it to the plan, make any alterations on the next boat. Cool that you have access to the CNC machine to cut out your forms...almost makes it too easy!
You say you're a woodtechnic student, I'm not sure what that means.
When guys from my generation were in high school, some of us would take classes in wood shop, metal shop, auto shop, etc.
I took many of those courses, and went on to serve an apprenticeship as a toolmaker, with my college education (the first part, anyway) paid for by my employer.

So, are you in grade school, university, or is this part of an apprenticeship? In my working career, I have worked with some Finnish engineers, and I know from speaking with them that your education system differs from ours here in the US. I'm always curious about the education systems and career path options for people in other countries..
 
The plans call for 16 inch... but I thought they would look stupid if the canoe is just straight.. like this one ( https://finewoodwatercraft.com/assets/img/client-builds/solo-wood-canoe-plan.jpg ) versus this one ( https://www.pygmyboats.com/Images/boat-page-quartering/taiga-wood-canoe-kit.jpg )

Well, Yes it is different here in Finland. First is elementary school, then upper comprehensive school, then you have to choose to go either high school or vocational school. Then you may continue to polytechnic of some area, or college I dont know if these are same thing. in Finland both of those are called AMK. But for me, I'm a woodtechnic engineer. So polytechnic or college I don't really know.
 
Those Pygmy canoes look efficient to me, not stupid at all ! Everyone has different likes. I lean more towards efficiency, than Traditional !
I'm after preformance.

Jim
 
I'm with Jim, I prefer a sheer line with lower rise at the stems, and a fairly low midsection. Less hull to catch the wind and less hull to carry on my back.

Here's a photo from 1981 showing my 18'6" competition cruiser (redwood) and my buddy's 18 ft 327 pro boat...both have lower straighter sheerlines.

View attachment 8Q6-SfCkT-H6sLDBQ4cPQZ02-Q-j55NLopNNvT83rnDNAZ_YMMyVCclFoQ_GcOb5wEaz48DrONmG1h2n1DACeydggD_VUqJQi_wE




And here's one of my favorites hulls, a 17 ft tandem, it's got a little more rise in the stems, bot not much more. Everyone has their likes and dislikes, that's what great about building your own boat, it can be whatever you wish!!


View attachment 7pwf7TaM7lGh89juWFXBz-52H0vUsq0BtEsoKHGsPz1gjWiXAhO2kZO2rRP--nHKAdnVW95vFveG_gV5CNgrm1yJt0_89wMr754S
 
So what is the point to have high stem then ? is it only visual thing or have it something to do with big lakes and waves ? Can I still use lover stem even if i have molds for 18 inch stem? Is it possible to attach first strip bit lower and by doing so, getting lower stem?
 
So what is the point to have high stem then ? is it only visual thing or have it something to do with big lakes and waves ? Can I still use lover stem even if i have molds for 18 inch stem? Is it possible to attach first strip bit lower and by doing so, getting lower stem?

Yes, to all of that. Taller stems will shield you from bigger waves for sure. And when you're stripping, you can add wood all the way to the design height. Later, when the hull is flipped over and you're ready to trim the sheer line, you could trim off as much or as little as you like, based on your NEEDS and your DESIRES. I will admit there is a pleasing look to a gently upswept bow, but I personally don't care for the super high stems that are seen on some vintage and classic hulls.

But a quick (or maybe not) note about bigger waves and taller stems. A canoe with some forward flare will keep you drier in large waves than a taller stem will. The flare will force waves away from the hull. Also, a hull with a bit more rocker will ride up larger waves better than a straight keeled hull, which would slice through waves (great for tracking, but not for staying dry). And remember, staying dry is not just a comfort issue, it's also a safety issue. Take on enough water in big waves and you no longer have the buoyancy you once had when dry and empty.
There's much to consider in a canoe hull design, which is why most guys (and gals) prefer to use a proven design. A few brave souls (Alan, Jim, sometimes me) branch out and do custom designs based upon previous experience.

Ultimately, you need to decide which characteristics are most important to YOU. On water performance, safety, aesthetics, weight are of different importance to each of us. Ask the other guys here that have built that same design, and see how well their impressions align with your desires. This could lead into many, much more in depth discussions, so I'll stop here...
 
I usually mark and trim the sheer before I take the boat off the molds, the boat is better supported at that point and it is much easier to check sheer points from the molds.

For a first build, it is usually best to stick to the plans you have .... presumably you picked the plans for your needs and the looks of the boat. The second build you will have a lot more perspective on changing things if you wish.


Brian
 
Okay. I will stick with the plans (maybe). for me, most important factors are durability and safety.

The router bits came this week 9 euros from banggood. Looks good, but I'll see how those works in action.

IMG_20180326_220731.jpg
 
Okay. I will stick with the plans (maybe). for me, most important factors are durability and safety.

The router bits came this week 9 euros from banggood. Looks good, but I'll see how those works in action.


Funny ! I ordered two sets from Ebay, and they arrived Monday. Pretty Cheap price !
Like you, I'll give them a try ! I hope they work for both of us ! Mine were 1/2" shank.

Jim
 
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