Little help with a fixer upper!

[FLPaddler]

hi all! I figure this might be a better place to post about getting this canoe fixed up. Some of the guys gave me some good insight on the introductory page as to what kind of canoe I had. Basically, guy I bought it from started to repair it and I bought it as is. Was told it was a composite canoe which makes sense. I am trying to figure out what kind of wood was used for the inner rails as one spot by the seat is rotted out. Was going to cut that section out and replace it (somehow) lol.

Next was the outer rails that the guy started replacing. Looks like he used brass nails to hold it on but some got folded over (at the head of the nail) in the process I guess. Not sure if I should pull them out and use something else?

also, the gunwales appear to be missing something along the sides. Not sure if he sealed it (why it’s black) or if that’s just the way it looks. Has the metal strip still intact and looks to be in good shape but not sure what should go there.

Once I get those items figured out I think a light sanding and some new stain should finish it nicely. Maybe even some resin to protect the wood?

Would love any input and thoughts as I have never done this before. Thanks in advance!

ryan

 

[memaquay]

Had a look at your other pics.........need more pictures! I don't think it would be difficult on that canoe to completely redo the gunwales. Do you have access to any tools, like a table saw?

 

[Cruiser]

Either Jim or I would chime in here mem and point out the skill saw method to cut strips works well for gunnels as well, so no big tools required to make up gunnels.

Brian

 

[cflcanoe]

Ash is what is usually used for gunwels. Hard to find Ash in the Orlando area. if you have a wood workshop with a surface planer and a router table wood surch on Craigslist for hard wood lumber. There is a add we're the boards are standing up right against a wall. His name is Jhon. Some times he has Ash. Otherwise Edscanoe.com has break down gunnels they can ship to you. Titebond III works great to glue gunnel sections together. Use staneless steel screws to hold the gunwels on. In a pinch you could use clear spruce. Home Depot used to sell it around the Orlando area.

 

[memaquay]

I have used ash, black ash, mahogany, oak and birch for gunwales. Usually whatever I can get for next to nothing.

 

[dougd]

For some of my recent builds I've been using Poplar, considered a hardwood, it bends easy, is fairly easy to shape and the cost is much less then ash. When I rebuilding for WW I am still sticking to ash as I can get it in up to 20' planks, not all the time but when it available I try to buy 2 planks for future gunwale builds. Home Depot carries Poplar but you'd probably have to see if they have it in the length you need.

 

[FLPaddler]

Had a look at your other pics.........need more pictures! I don't think it would be difficult on that canoe to completely redo the gunwales. Do you have access to any tools, like a table saw?

I will try to upload some more but was limiting on my space. Might have to make them smaller files so I can upload more. Don’t have a table saw but have a circular saw and jig saw.

 

[FLPaddler]

here are some more photos! also dougd I couldn't find any other stamped in info on it. Nothing obvious at least.

 

[Fitz]

1. Ash is what was likely used on the boat originally.
2. Those brass tacks are likely silicon bronze ring nails. That is why they bent over at the head. They are an absolute PITA to remove. See my other post.
3. If you look closely, you will see that the "inwales" are actually two pieces on each side. A shorter piece that extends between the two seats is also nailed on with ring nails. This beefy inwale system makes up for the dainty outwale. It is a real buggar to take apart.
4. You could try and replace that piece of rail, but I think it might be easier in the long run to replace the inwale "system" and the outwale. I like ash for this particular application, but I realize that may be difficult to find in Florida.
5. I think the interior probably could use a good cleaning, then scuff it with 220 grit sandpaper and then give it a couple of coats of real spar varnish.
6. Those decks are replacements. I copied the rotted decks of the original. See attached pic.

 

[FLPaddler]

The guy I got it from was just using a thin strip of wood and nailing it on with brass nails. Def don’t think he was using the right stuff as he pulled off the original pieces. How thick are the outside gunwales normally?

 

[FLPaddler]

This is what I mean he has some nails bent over. Looks like he hit the original screw in some parts and just finished it by bending it over. Just seems like a flimsy piece of wood for the outside gunwale.

 

[Fitz]

Those are silicon bronze ring nails. You can see the rings on the bent shank in the picture. Next to impossible to pull out.

Yeah, the outwales are only decorative for the most part. You can see in my photo they are only maybe 1/4 or 3/8's inch thick or so. The two inwale pieces on each side do all of the work.

When driving ring nails it helps to pre-drill and back the other side of the rail with a clinching iron/heavy block of metal. That way they don't get bent over while driving them in.

Cheers.

 

[FLPaddler]

Those are silicon bronze ring nails. You can see the rings on the bent shank in the picture. Next to impossible to pull out.

Yeah, the outwales are only decorative for the most part. You can see in my photo they are only maybe 1/4 or 3/8's inch thick or so. The two inwale pieces on each side do all of the work.

When driving ring nails it helps to pre-drill and back the other side of the rail with a clinching iron/heavy block of metal. That way they don't get bent over while driving them in.

Cheers.

Wow! thats some good eyes you have lol. I could barley see the rings when I was 2 inches from it!! Guess I either leave his nail job or spend the time redoing it. Def have to do the inners and trying to locate some ash