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Alan's Bloodvein II

I can add a couple off observations to the innie-outtie debate, lol. I have always put a football on the outside (football first, under the full sheet). However, the only major destructive events that have happened with my canoes have been inside hull separations, which lends credibility to the inside football idea.

There is another however, however.

I had an 18 foot J. Winters Quetico that I had built early in my canoe building experience, and I only used a single layer on the outside hull. It held up fine, however, on one port clearing trip down the Steel river, a particularly difficult log jam made for some interesting acrobatics at the end of the port. There was about a six foot cliff that one had to negotiate, and once the canoe was in the water, I simply jumped off the cliff into it. Unknown to me, there was a large tree underwater, and when I landed, the glass on the inside hull split for almost 2 feet in a line running up the centre of the canoe. We were still several ports and around 40 miles from an extraction point, and it was a very hairy trip, with the big split winking at me with every paddle stroke. I was sure the exterior glass was going to separate at some point and we would end up Titanic-ing.

I know that if I had a second layer of fibreglass inside the canoe, the catastrophic failure would most likely not occurred. However, I also believe that of I had a football on the outside, it mightn't have occurred. Or, even if the results were still the same, I would have at least had 12 ounces of glass holding the winking gap together for the final push.

The other similar event happened in my first Raven. On that one, I used 4 once cloth for the football, covered with 6 ounce for the whole sheet. I had a single layer of six inside. I was on a trip with the school, paddling at full speed, when I ran up hard on the point of a rock. The contact was right under my feet, impact was severe. Again, the glass inside the canoe fractured, but only for about 3 inches. I was able to conduct a repair in the field, as I usually took a small resin/glass repair kit.

If weight were not an issue, I would say do the inside and outside. On my 20 foot freighter, due to the size and use of a motor and the unimportance of weight, I did multiple layers of 10 and 6 ounce cloth, inside and out.

For some unknown reason, despite evidence to the contrary, I still continue to put the football on the outside, perhaps because I treat my canoes so rough, lots of dragging, etc.

I did stretch that Quetico out to a 20 foot canoe, and on that one I used a single sheet of 10 ounce cloth on the outside and the inside. That was a bomb proof layup, and after 20 years of hard use, that canoe is still going strong. On the Quetico the students are currently building, we will be using the standard exterior football (under the glass). The Under-over football is a discussion where I think everyone should just do what they like best. I haven't experienced any adverse effects from doing it my way, and our canoes probably get beat up a lot more than the average stripper, so I'm going to speculate that the under/over debate is more a matter of personal preference than one of structural integrity.
 
No need for apology, Jim. I intentionally do things that are unconventional (my wood choices, using 4 oz glass instead of the standard 6, thinner strips, gel stains under the glass, lighter gunwales, installing float tanks, etc) and I expect that some of those will be unpopular. Some may even result in shortened hull life and, possibly, a catastrophic failure (perhaps even mid-trip).

I do wish I'd looked at the Freedom lay-up prior to glassing the exterior of this one- I didn't realize that the football was s-glass and the extra abrasion resistance of s-glass might be helpful (even though I've only gouged all the way to the cloth once).

S-glass is more expensive (like double the cost), and the abrasion resistance of an "innie" layer is irrelevant, so an "outtie" football layer (30 inch width) would be in order with an s-glass football layer IMO. I can still do that on this hull (and may before 2027) although I'd much rather have it as part of the original lamination.

As for punctures causing the wood core to separate, I'm sure a puncture would allow the wood to start soaking up water but I usually beach & inspect the hull after severe impacts so it wouldn't get very wet before I could slap some Gorilla tape on it (I haven't been carrying epoxy & glass in the bush). Even if it continues to soak, I'd think the surrounding glass should be sufficient to maintain hull integrity for a little while. Plans, at that point, might be "paddle faster, stop taking thousands of pictures, and know that the clock is ticking".

If the boat hits the burn pile upon my return home, I'll build another (I'd have an open slot in storage lol)

I'll admit that I may want to rethink my in-field repair kit. It sounds like Mem has broken more boats than I've built and if he's toting epoxy, perhaps I should too.

Then again, he's portaged full coolers of beer while I opt for the weight savings of hard liquor and, having seen the 6 foot drops on the Steel River ports, I'm not launching myself from the top rope and hoping to hit the boat (besides, my right ankle would kill me for that)

As always, I appreciate the insight of other builders here, even if they're sure that I'm nuts (they're not entirely wrong, you know) and I'd encourage anyone thinking of building to post detailed threads like this. They may get an occasional "yeah... I'm not so sure about that" comment but they'll also get honest discussion and the reasons for any skepticism.

Back to the build... Interior glass has been delayed until (probably) Tuesday due to family members who need some help. I'll be pushing the "72 hours to get chemical bond" on the fillet but I can scuff it if I need to, the adhesion to the surrounding wood should (I think) provide adequate strength and the fillet will still strengthen that joint and help to eliminate voids under the glass in that area.

Happy Sunday to all.
 
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Gamma, a suggestion for you to try next build. If you do something like the knuckle and maybe crack fill here and there again, let it sit for 15 minutes and then go ahead with glassing. You obviously need to be careful laying the glass at the sticky parts, but it will still move and sit in place well. When you continue with the epoxy, the wet areas just blend and settle perfectly. No sanding or fussing.
When I do the hull touchups now, I just plan an extra 40 minutes on glass day ... the technique has it's limits, but is a useful time saver.

Brian
 
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