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Light weight vs strong laminate

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Mar 17, 2015
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There have been discussions about moving to lighter weight canoes as we age but that tends to mean more fragile construction. I want a canoe that is both light weight and robust! The Flashfire is one of my favorite canoes. I had a Bell Flashfire that weighed about 36 pounds and then when a Placid Flashfire came up for sale some time ago I sold the Bell and bought the Placid Flashfire which weighs 29-30 lbs. It is such a delightful canoe to use for maneuvering around obstacles such as trees in a swamp or snags in a stream. Last week on Magees creek, a shallow stream that flows into the Bogue Chitto, I got over confident and made a last minute poor decision to take a less straight-forward route when approaching a snag. I hit the snag broadside and along with the thud there was a sickening cracking sound. The fabric doesn’t look torn, but the resin matrix is cracked in the chine and also at the shouldered tumblehome, along with gelcoat cracking on the outside. I usually try to baby that canoe but it is such a fun canoe to play with I got tempted to try a move I shouldn’t have. Back when Placid was making the DY fire models Charlie Wilson was touting Placid’s resin infusion technology and saying the Placid versions had greater strength compared to the Bell ones. I’m not sure about that now. I hit the snag with more than a gentle tap but I wouldn’t have thought it would cause cracking like it did.

What trade-offs do you make? Do you struggle with a sturdier but heavier canoe, paddle a light weight canoe but avoid trips or maneuvers that risk damage, or paddle a light weight canoe, take the risks and keep doing repairs? With the back problems I’ve been having, loading a canoe much over 30-33 lbs on the car has become quite a challenge so a heavier lay-up wouldn’t be a great option but neither do I want to keep having to patch my Flashfire nor am I ready to give up fun maneuvering in flat but flowing water that has obstacles that may at times push the limits of my ability to avoid them.
 
I have a similar conundrum, except mine isn't about weight or fragility. It's about cost and ease of repair between two boats. My w/c canvas canoes are the ones I prefer to paddle, but a mishap on moving water or dragging over shallows could cause damage that would be harder and more expensive to fix then on my composite boat. I could also take a royalex boat and have no worries at all, but life is too short for that.

The conclusion I came to is paddle the boat that I prefer or the one that would work the best for the trip, and hope for the best. Within reason of course. Knowing your skill level and the conditions you may encounter are a big consideration. Take whatever boat you think will be the most enjoyable with a reasonable chance to come out unscathed.
 
paddle a light weight canoe, take the risks and keep doing repairs
That's me. It helps that most of my canoes have been bought used, with pre-existing scratches and dings - even cracks or worse. So far, at least, my repairs haven't added significant weight. I only have one canoe that is so pretty I baby it ......a little.

I'm a man, so I'm always shopping for an upgrade. One of the things that keeps me from buying a brand new canoe right this minute (besides price and lack of test paddle access) is this indecision over layups. 28 lb ultralight, or expedition weight? Yeah, that's a tough one when you're talking about $4k US. But time for spending the money and wearing one out grows short.....
 
Pika, as an aside, the area you describe is likely the most vulnerable area on the entire canoe, had you impacted anywhere else, we probably wouldn't be having this discussion.
Choosing "Ultralight" versus "Expedition" layups (and the few in between) is largely an exercise is figuring out how you plan to use the canoe and what are your needs/wants. If you want the weight reduction, then you have to slide towards the UltraLight layups and that will also require you to respect the capabilities of those craft. They are just not going to be as impact resistant as the heavier layups, but if you hit them hard enough, they will also crack.
I think Lowangle summed it it up nicely:
The conclusion I came to is paddle the boat that I prefer or the one that would work the best for the trip, and hope for the best
 
Pika, as an aside, the area you describe is likely the most vulnerable area on the entire canoe, had you impacted anywhere else, we probably wouldn't be having this discussion.
That is an interesting point. The cracks are not directly at the point of impact (at least I don't think so), they are in areas of greater hull curvature above and below the impact.
 
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