Alan's Bloodvein II

[sailsman63]

I've only done a shouldered tumblehome once, but mine had a concave curve. Glass adhered to the outside just fine. It was the inside that got finicky.

Keep in mind: The exterior glass fibers are a major part of your structural strength. If you break them, you have a much weaker hull - or will need to add a significant amount of weight in overlaping the seam to compensate.

 

[Gamma1214]

...I’m guessing the strong back is the heaviest so it will always want to rotate with the canoe upright.

Not on the Merlin build. The OSB forms & stripped hull were heavier than the plywood legs of the strongback (but not by much). The set-up rotated easily and I could rest the hull on a 5 gallon bucket to color the sides. Only issue was that I needed a helper to get it on the stands (we lifted one end at a time and one person stabilized it while the other positioned the other end on the stand. I'm in the process of reworking the stands to see if I can make that a one-man operation)

Keep in mind: The exterior glass fibers are a major part of your structural strength. If you break them, you have a much weaker hull - or will need to add a significant amount of weight in overlaping the seam to compensate.

I think I'm going to try and wrap the glass upside down to do the whole exterior as one piece but have some 6 inch wide e-glass tape on hand. If the cloth starts to bunch up (there's an extra 1 1/2 strips on the tumblehome area compared to the bow & stern), I'll glass what I can cleanly, allow that epoxy to set overnight and then flip the hull, trim off the loose cloth and glass the knuckle with the tape the following day.

The flat top of the knuckle + the sheer is about 4 inches at the widest point so a 6 inch wide tape should give me 2 inches of overlap and Raka says that I have (I think) 72 hours to still get a chemical bond. I'll be using the tape to reinforce that area on the inside anyway but the sharper edge contour should provide extra strength as well. I think 2 inches of overlap will be sufficient but I've been wrong before.

 

[stripperguy]

I glassed my red kite with 6 oz glass and it was a breeze, easily conformed.
I used carbon cloth two layers at once for the carbon copy kite and I had great difficulty to get the carbon to fully conform around and over the crease.
With glass, no issue at all.
And a warning about using glass tape: it’s likely straight woven with finished edges. That tape will not conform to compound curves very well. Bias woven tape will, but it’s quite a bit more expensive and difficult to find.