Most Useful/Best Clamps for building a stripper?

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

In the interest of adding to the useful beginner-stripper-friendly bank of knowledge here, I thought it would be great to have a thread on specific and essential clamps or clamping systems.

I'd love to hear what types of clamps are peoples' favourites, most-used, and why (with some pictures to clarify)? I have seen so many different approaches to clamping, especially in staple-less builds, and I'm sure people down the road who are just starting out might find a discussion like that useful.

Personally I have a motley selection of mis-matched clamps from over the years and many different jobs and projects. They are mostly bar clamps and a handful of spring clamps, and I know that my next clamping purchase is going to be some spring clamps to rig up Jimmy Clamp style, like in this thread here:

New Spring Clamps for Stripping !!!

It's Ice City here in Northwest Iowa today, and I decided it was a good time to put these Spring clamps together ! I'm not stripping a canoe right now, but if anyone is ? Could you make up some of these, try them out? Then let us Know how they work. I have about $1.50 a piece in them. I...

www.canoetripping.net

Cheers!

 

[Boatman53]

To me the best clamp is the one that works. There are lots of different styles for all different tasks. That said, all though I’ve never used them the Jimmy Clamps look like just the bees knees for strip building a canoe.
Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

Those Jimmy clamps are so handy !
Another clamping system, is the "Dragon Teeth".

They are used to hold the outwhales to the deck area, without fasteners. Used exclusively when you glue outwhales on.

A pic, I hope that gives you enough information, so you can see how they work.



Dragon's Teeth

The red spring clamps, hold the Dragon's Teeth, to the hull.
The angle cut wedges, keep the clamps from sliding off.
The blue tape, is between the outwhales and the Teeth, to keep them from sticking to the hull.

the Results, Look Mom ! No Screws!

Screwless Outwhales

 

[Jim Dodd]

Another pic of Dragon's Teeth in action. I hope a better pic.
These I painted red.

Dragon's teeth.

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

Another clamping system, is the "Dragon Teeth".
A pic, I hope that gives you enough information, so you can see how they work.

Oh that looks slick, and the final product is so clean! If I understand correctly they're essentially angled wood block 'pads' that work as adapters so that you can apply pressure with standard bar clamps? That could be a good way to use some of my bar clamps when I build my first stripper.
I imagine you could use a similar system to hold the gunwales tight to a thwart while you glue it in place to a cleat, or drill it for dowels, or whatever method you were attaching it with.
Cheers Jim!

EDIT: The painted red pic really shows them! I misunderstood before and though they were just the wedges, but they're a whole assembly. Very cool!

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

@Jim Dodd To clarify something on the Jimmy Clamps: I'm wondering about sizes. I've seen 2" clamps mentioned but some of the clamps I have seen in pictures look bigger to me than the ones I see as a '2" opening'. Just don't want to buy 40 of a size that won't work.

If anyone has any other thoughts on clamps it would be great to have more here too: one-hand operation trigger clamps, for example? Anybody find them useful or crucial at any step?

The other one I have to track down is the thread that detailed the Virginia Jim bungee setup. I do intend to do a (mostly) staple-less build for my first build, although if I see things trying to drift off a form I am not going to be enough of a purist to not throw a staple in (yet ).

Basically so far I haven't even started and I have to build a better workbench and cabinets in my garage before I even have the space to start on this canoe, and Jim's already given me three clamp-building projects. I'm going backwards!

 

[Jim Dodd]

Yes. The spring clamps I buy are described as 2" size.

Oh Yes ! The Other Jim Dodd, came up with a very slick method using bungee cord and two simply cut wood blocks.

When Jim and I first found each other ? We had a blast discussing our building methods The Other Jim, does superb work ! I'm still envious of his workmanship !

In the beginning Jim sent me one of his bungee clamps. He did request, I keep them to myself. In time? He gave me permission to share.
I should have made a seperate thread for them, as they really work great, and are quick to use !

one of my latest build threads has them.
If Photobucket doesn't obscure them too bad .
The link

A Stripper and a Composite Copy

 

[Alan Gage]

Staples are my favorite clamp.

Alan

 

[Jim Dodd]

Staples are my favorite clamp.

Alan

Mine Too !
No faster way, and they keep the strips true to the forms better than clamping.
The waiting for the glue to dry, with clamping systems, is too time consuming, for little benefit.

All the mold builders use staples, when they make plugs, for production molds.

Jim

 

[Cruiser]

Mine Too !
No faster way, and they keep the strips true to the forms better than clamping.
The waiting for the glue to dry, with clamping systems, is too time consuming, for little benefit.

All the mold builders use staples, when they make plugs, for production molds.

Jim

I would dispute that a good clamping system wouldn't be just as effective as staples holding the strips to the form ... I would agree that it is also more work to do so.
If you are waiting for glue to set while stripping, that is a personal choice of what glue you use, not a fault with the method

I suspect mold builders are using staples simply because it is faster and they don't care what the finished product looks like, they will be fairing with body filler and such anyway ... if you care what the finished product looks like, you need to look at a hull with staple holes and see if that look bothers you. Lots of folks don't see and don't care about the holes ... if that the case then it is a good option. However, if you are a bit fussy and all you see are the holes and are itching to fill and fix them, maybe best to not make them in the first place.

 

[Cruiser]

@Jim Dodd To clarify something on the Jimmy Clamps: I'm wondering about sizes. I've seen 2" clamps mentioned but some of the clamps I have seen in pictures look bigger to me than the ones I see as a '2" opening'. Just don't want to buy 40 of a size that won't work.

If anyone has any other thoughts on clamps it would be great to have more here too: one-hand operation trigger clamps, for example? Anybody find them useful or crucial at any step?

The other one I have to track down is the thread that detailed the Virginia Jim bungee setup. I do intend to do a (mostly) staple-less build for my first build, although if I see things trying to drift off a form I am not going to be enough of a purist to not throw a staple in (yet ).

Basically so far I haven't even started and I have to build a better workbench and cabinets in my garage before I even have the space to start on this canoe, and Jim's already given me three clamp-building projects. I'm going backwards!

In a typical build, I would suggest a couple of useful clamps. The spring clamps in the Jimmi and plain configuration ... sized for you build strips. These are useful for stripping and any gluing that will fit easily in the jaws of the ones you have.

On the strongback when you attach "stuff" to the molds for guidance and alignment, things you don't want to move, then some 3"-4" C clamps are very useful.

Sometimes you will also need a clamp with wider jaws, bar clamps up to about 18" would be nice to have around

and finally, some good quality 1/8" shock cord make a good, versatile clamp, so a few feet of that may come in handy as well.

I did a drawing of the spring clamps I am using on my current build, swapping from larger 2" clamps to a smaller type, this link takes you to the post, but you have to scroll down the post a few pics to see, that should give you some dimensional info

Solo on the Light Side

Stripping Part 1 Since this is a staple less build, some of the clamping solutions need to get creative. Whenever there is a concave section, as it is here,it is never an easy day, find it is best to not short cut and just work out some decent supports. There is no question, building stapleless...

www.canoetripping.net

The nice thing about spring clamps is that they are useful on so many things around the shop, not just a canoe build.

Brian

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

Thanks as always for chiming in, guys! I am getting closer to being able to start a small dip-the-toe strip canoe for my son and I to "toodle around in" (my partner's words: she knows how much ground we fail to cover when the kiddo and I are out 'fishing'). It's not my ultimate personal boat but it will be fun for he and I to get out in, or for me to solo for fishing, or for him to learn to paddle solo on when he's a bit bigger. In the meantime I am scavenging up all the information I can, and digging through the archives constantly. My timeline is held up by a long list of things that have to happen or be built in the garage before I will be able to comfortably build a boat in there. But this is the winter for it!

Planning out what clamps to have ready (and to watch for on sale as the holiday sales come through) is one of my steps forward. (Just joking earlier about you making work for me, Jim, I love the custom-made clamp systems and I can't wait to have them ready and see them in use. Similar to the satisfaction of fussing around making a jig and then seeing it in action, I'm sure)

Brian, I've read through your Solo on the Light Side thread a few times now, and every time there are more things that I missed that I pick up on. What a great thread! It truly is a great example of why forums like this one are such amazing resources! I do have shock cord kicking around, lots of it, so I'll be using that for a variation on the Virginia Jim bungees and for the points where I am past the point of Jimmy Clamps working.

 

[Boatman53]

If you are tired of waiting for glue to dry you could get a wood welder. It cures glue in seconds. My friend used one when he built a strip bidarka. Is is quite amazing how fast you can put a hull together.
Here’s one.

Tregarne Woodwelder with Hardwearing Powder Coated Finish

Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

I would dispute that a good clamping system wouldn't be just as effective as staples holding the strips to the form ... I would agree that it is also more work to do so.
If you are waiting for glue to set while stripping, that is a personal choice of what glue you use, not a fault with the method

I suspect mold builders are using staples simply because it is faster and they don't care what the finished product looks like, they will be fairing with body filler and such anyway ... if you care what the finished product looks like, you need to look at a hull with staple holes and see if that look bothers you. Lots of folks don't see and don't care about the holes ... if that the case then it is a good option. However, if you are a bit fussy and all you see are the holes and are itching to fill and fix them, maybe best to not make them in the first place.

We all differ in our opinions, and I respect that.
In my personal experience, and the methods I've used ? Staples are faster, and do a better job, at keeping the strips close to the hull.

I have gone mostly stapless on several builds. I always relying on a few staples, in the bilge area, or where the strips are unruly

As far as beauty ? If staples are done properly, and holes filled properly ? There is little distraction from the beauty of the hull, in my opinion.

If one closely examines a staple build ? That's OK. My hulls all have scratches, that concern me more, than the staple holes.

That's just me !

Jim

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

Has anybody here tried the method this guy shows on the bearmountain site? I have some concerns about it, but it also looks like it worked pretty smoothly. There are so many interesting clamping methods out there.

Mark Whittaker's Prospector: From Inspiration to Launch Day

Stirrings If there was a single moment that triggered and opened up the appeal of canoeing (and construction of same) for me, it was watching Bill Mason's face as he took me through the basics in his film for the NFB: Path of the Paddle. There was such serenity, harmony, confidence and...

www.bearmountainboats.com

 

[scoutergriz]

Has anybody here tried the method this guy shows on the bearmountain site? I have some concerns about it, but it also looks like it worked pretty smoothly. There are so many interesting clamping methods out there.

Mark Whittaker's Prospector: From Inspiration to Launch Day

Stirrings If there was a single moment that triggered and opened up the appeal of canoeing (and construction of same) for me, it was watching Bill Mason's face as he took me through the basics in his film for the NFB: Path of the Paddle. There was such serenity, harmony, confidence and...

www.bearmountainboats.com

I've done it and I find it actually easier than a zillion clamps simply because with the wedges you can apply pressure exactly where you need it at multiple place at once. Unlike a spring clamp you can use wedges of varying sizes to put the exact amount of pressure needed on multiple strips at once, and at multiple locations on each strip, simply running your hand down between the wedges lets you know how fair your strips are sitting. especially as you approach the stems where you might actually need to force a twist into the material.
one caveat though- make sure you either are stingy with, the glue and diligently wipe off any squeeze out, or put wax paper under them- it's a real pain removing stuck straps and sanding off any residual fuzz

 

[Cruiser]

Has anybody here tried the method this guy shows on the bearmountain site? I have some concerns about it, but it also looks like it worked pretty smoothly. There are so many interesting clamping methods out there.

Mark Whittaker's Prospector: From Inspiration to Launch Day

Stirrings If there was a single moment that triggered and opened up the appeal of canoeing (and construction of same) for me, it was watching Bill Mason's face as he took me through the basics in his film for the NFB: Path of the Paddle. There was such serenity, harmony, confidence and...

www.bearmountainboats.com

When you think about clamping strips, there are two main items that need to be addressed 1) holding the strips to the molds/forms and 2) holding the strips to each other. This almost always requires 2 clamping systems.

For Item 1
You can use the Cam Buckles as shown and the Wedges will allow you to put pressure where you need it ... mostly. When the wedge is installed, the strips immediately adjacent get no support from the strap and can move away from the form a bit simply from the pressure being applied and the lack of strap contact (due to the wedge lifting the strap at that point). The cam buckles selected for this are almost always "budget" versions and will have a tendency to release a bit ... so better quality ones are a good idea. Just remember to constantly check the strips position with the mold.
Concur with SGs observation that you will get glue on the straps and you need to be careful removing them afterwards ... I would add that if you don't get the glue cleaned off the strap, you can make a "hard spot" that will dent the wood next time the strap is used.

For Item 2
The part I would get concerned about is the apparent lack of any strip to strip clamping, between forms. This is where the Jimmy Clamps shine and should be a mainstay IMO. Laying strips together with glue and not providing any clamping between forms is not something I think is a good idea ... popping a couple of Jimmy Clamps between forms ensures the strips are being joined properly.
In this post, the glue used is actually stated to be EPOXY and for all the expense, work and headache that causes it is simply beyond overkill IMO. For the typical softwoods used for strip construction, all the wood glues available (even stuff like plain white glue) make a bond stronger than the wood, I have said it before, the stronger the glue you use, the more difficult it is to sand/remove ... so pick the glue wisely.

A final point about selecting your clamping method.
When you look at clamping systems, pay attention to the depicted build versus what will be your actual boat. In this reference post the build is a Prospector with a straight even hull, which is a nice easy hull to strip, however if you where to select a Freedom Solo from the same stable of canoes, there is tumblehome to consider and the Cam Buckles will struggle a bit and the holddown/clamping scenario changes somewhat. Still workable, but best you think about that before you start and have a plan.

Brian

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

I've done it and I find it actually easier than a zillion clamps simply because...

Thanks for chiming in with your experience! Good to hear that it can work, in the right scenarios.

 

[ThatPaddlingGuy]

When you think about clamping strips, there are two main items that need to be addressed 1) holding the strips to the molds/forms and 2) holding the strips to each other. This almost always requires 2 clamping systems.

You make some really good points, Brian! I had considered some of these, like recurved tumblehome making it useless, but it's funny how a person can just completely not consider some simple element of a system sometimes: I hadn't even considered the issues of getting glue on the straps! That would be such a mess potentially. I wonder about a material that would make a simple sleeve over the strap, to protect it. Maybe inner tube strips passed over the webbing? Or just taped sleeves cut from heavy contractor plastic bags. I wonder.

Absolutely agree about the epoxy for the strips: that stood out to me immediately as well. Seems like a TON of extra work for an unnecessary gain.

I like seeing the range of methods out there. I need to buy some inner tube, because I picked up 22 clamps to turn into Jimmy Clamps a few days ago.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I like the strap idea !
But there are flaws with everything.
Adding rows of strips, even if you placed 5 strips, in ready to glue formation.
After you have those 5 in place, you would need to loosen the straps, to add more rows.

What is done to hold the strips together, between the forms ?

The wedges would be needed, and handy as you go. I'm guessing he has a bag of them strapped to his waist.

Lastly I wonder if the straps might slip off the forms ?

Love exploring other ideas !
My methods have evolved soo much from my first canoe !

Jim