• Happy Star Wars Day! 🌇🚶🏼‍,👑👊🏼🔙

Trying to be open minded here; what saw do you bring.....

Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
838
Reaction score
5
If somebody was dedicated to the method of batoning wood into fire wood, what kind of saw do you bring to process the log into appropriate lengths for splitting?
All the saws I've owned or ever seen, had some weakness in that parts could be lost and assembly was required. And of course they could be broken through mishandling or bad luck.

So, in what saw do you put your trust and an expectation of a warming fire?

Best Wishes, Rob


P.S. Just on the off chance I'm not the only one to suffer wood with a twisty grain that pretty much dares you to try and split it; the shorter you cut the sections of log, the easier it is to split.
 
I use a Sven Saw. Not saying it's the best, I've never tried anything else, but I don't have any issues with it.

Alan
 
what kind of saw do you bring to process the log into appropriate lengths for splitting?
All the saws I've owned or ever seen, had some weakness in that parts could be lost and assembly was required. And of course they could be broken through mishandling or bad luck.

So, in what saw do you put your trust and an expectation of a warming fire?

I have several saws, including the ubiquitous Sven saw. I didn’t much care for the Sven saw’s shape, which leaves much of the blade unusable on thicker wood, nor for the assembly and lose-able wing nut.

I wanted a bow saw that was better shaped than the too tapered triangular Sven, sturdier and without small parts and pieces. Space isn’t an issue with my boats, so I don’t need something that folds or disassembles.

To that end I carry a bow saw, similar to this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars-2...966J/100166385

I made a blade guard for it from a length of old ash gunwale with a channel routed on the flat side. No assembly, no parts to lose, 2 seconds to remove the blade guard and it is ready to go.

Having carried and used that saw for years I can’t imagine going back to something that required assembly and disassembly.
 
If I bring a saw it's a collapsible one that came from the Piragis Boundary Waters catalog. I find it cuts very well and I like the fact that it packs small and the blade is protected within the saw's frame when closed up.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...Be well.

snapper
 
I have the Schmidt Pack Saw also. I prefer a collapsible saw that fits into my Duluth Pack Wanderer's side pouch, here it is next to the ax,
Copy%2520of%2520DSC01485.JPG



It's saw length is good enough for what I need, mostly beaver wood, blades are cheap and easy to come by, you can find better ones for it if you want to spend the money and you can tape a blade up with duct tape and screw it under a wood thwart for a spare.
It came with a metal rod to take up tension, I replaced it with a string and stick after I cross threaded the rod, the string works well.

The blade fits into a groove in the frame when the saw is taken down so there is no chance of an accident.

DSC00731.JPG
 
I have lots of hand pack saws,but my favorite if I take one tripping is a Forester pruning saw I bought at my chainsaw dealers.It has a fixed 12" blade that cuts on the return stroke and is wicked sharp.
Turtle
 
Like Turtle said these pruning saws are Wick'd sharp, cut on the return stroke , it's also designed to cut 3-4" branches. It has a strong tooth guard, fit's in anywhere and nothing to put together. We've used it for 3 years canoeing and on my wood lot.
 
I've had a Coghlans folding camp saw for years, and have had no troubles. It's "Sven like", so the triangular shape doesn't suit large logs, so I choose smaller ones to cut. There are no fiddly parts to lose, and the inexpensive blade folds neatly away. If I have any money left after all that fixed blade shopping channel stuff on the other threads, then I guess I'll consider a new saw. It would likely be a Bob's, just like Canoedog's.
 
For the kind of canoeing I do -- which does not include clearing portage trails or any sort of heavy wood processing -- I've never had a need to cut a log or tree more than about 6" in diameter.

For that kind of wood, I examined three candidates many years ago and periodically since then.

1. Bow saw. It is the fastest cutter and can cut larger diameter logs, but speed and log diameter capacity are not my primary criteria when I'm only cutting a small number of 6" logs at most. Bow saws are the bulkiest and heaviest, so I have ruled them out as in-the-canoe saws on those grounds. If I were base camped or car camped for a long time and needed to process a lot of wood, or bigger wood, I would take a bow saw.

2. Pruning saw. By "pruning" saw I mean, by definition, one that has a curved blade, which cuts only on the draw stroke. I have used one of these to cut tons of branches and small trees on my 11 acres for 20 years. However, I don't want a curved blade as canoeist. I want to be able to cut a flat notch in logs and frequently something lying on the ground, and for those objectives a straight blade is much better. I therefore have rejected curved blade pruning saws, even if they fold.

3. Folding saw with straight blade. This is my choice. For my kind of canoeing, it is the lightest, most compact and has the right blade geometry. The teeth should be of the "medium" cutting pattern rather than the "fine" pattern. About four years ago I chose the Bahco Laplander as the best in this class. It has an 8" blade and weights only 7 ounces. It locks in the open and closed positions. It cuts on both the push and pull strokes.

Recently, I have become aware of Silkie folding saws from Japan. The closest model in length to the Bahco Laplander is the Gomboy 210 with medium teeth. It weighs about two ounces more than the Bahco and costs $8-10 more. It also comes with a plastic storage case, which I don't think I'd bring in the canoe. Functionally, the Silkie cuts only on the draw cut and it has two open positions, one where the blade is at an obtuse angle to the handle, which enables more ergonomic cutting of a log on the ground.

In every head-to-head cutting speed test I've seen, the Silkie beats the Bahco. Here's a test by my very favorite knife reviewer on the internet, virtuovice. He's using shorter models from Bahco and Silkie than the Laplander and Gomboy 210, but the blade geometries he analyzes and explains are the same.


Based of these cutting tests, the more sophisticated tooth geometry, the superior friction-reducing geometry, the two different open angles, and the fact that the Silkie has more metal in a stronger construction, I would now choose the Silkie Gomboy 210 over the Bahco Laplander even though it is a little heavier and costs a little more. There are also Silkie models that are longer and shorter than the Gomboy 210.
 
Last edited:
I use a 21" Bowman Swede Saw. Bring a spare blade but have never needed it. I chainsawed a few times and it was awesome for cutting up firewood but sucked portaging.
 
Well Red, that's what you got kids for, lugging the saw and gas. When my son comes with me, usually in his own canoe now, I often sneak the saw and gas into his canoe.
 
I've used a lot of different saws to, Trailblazer saw in a tube, reg haw saw, pruning saws, folding saws(bacho laplander) small one man x cut saw, but I think my next one will be a Bob's saws, 30". I never read any negative about that saw, just great comments!! It is light, no loose parts that can get lost, pack small, and decently priced for some thing made in the USA.
 
If we are going heavy and expect a lot of route clearing I like the chainsaw. The last trip we took a small bow saw from Home Hardware and ended up giving it and the spare blade to another group who were heading farther in than us and would need it. I do have a couple of old bow saws laying around and just need to grab one up and take it if I want.

Usually I dont take a saw though, just the axe. Like Robin, I use small deadfall and beaver wood and just snap it over my knee or under foot. Not much need to split wood. I use smallish fires so a ton of wood is not on the agenda. If I was out in the fall or early winter that might change.

I may look into one of the takedown saws this year, just to round out my gear.

Christy
 
Back
Top