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Paddle face repair

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Offered to help a friend stabilize fraying fabric on one side of the paddle face. The other side is fine and intact.

My first thoughts are some epoxy, tinted with paint for UV. Same, but adding a layer of Dynel. Lastly some spray enamel paint.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?
 

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Wysedave, just taught me a little trick, that I used today. It might also work for you.

Dave mixed black chalk in his mixed resin, and applied it to fiberglass. This made the glass look like carbon.

Today I added some Dynel to the stems of CF Nokomis. Had some graphite powder (made to add to mixed epoxy) mixed it with the mixed resin, and applied it to the Dynel. Worked great, as not only will the Dynel add abrasion resistance, the graphite adds lubisity (new word) to the stems.

Whether you use graphite, or chalk, you can color the Dynel, that usually stays white, when you coat it with mixed epoxy.

Great trick Wysedave ! Can't believe I didn't think of it ! :rolleyes:

Jim
 
Jim,

I believe I remember a previous post somewhere on this forum where you stated that you used graphite powder on the bottom of a hull and it blistered when left in the sun. Are you concerned this might happen again?
 
Jim,

I believe I remember a previous post somewhere on this forum where you stated that you used graphite powder on the bottom of a hull and it blistered when left in the sun. Are you concerned this might happen again?


The canoe that had this problem, wasn't built by me. The builder had finished it and varnished. It was then sanded, and coated with the graphite impregnated resin. It spent well over a month, bottom up, on top of a van in a parking lot. Not a good thing !
I haven't had any trouble with mine, as I don't leave them outside.
When I coated hulls. I added the graphite to the first fill coat, giving it a textured surface to attach to.

I don't think the graphite will bubble, as the Dynel is impregnated, not just coated.

I am concerned the Black hull will degrade faster than a painted hull. Time will be the judge on that !

Good point Sven !

Jim
 
Offered to help a friend stabilize fraying fabric on one side of the paddle face. The other side is fine and intact.

My first thoughts are some epoxy, tinted with paint for UV. Same, but adding a layer of Dynel. Lastly some spray enamel paint.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Wow, what the heck is going on with that paddle? Is that kevlar cloth? If so maybe that would explain why the whole blade face looks so terrible from the picture.

Assuming it's kevlar that will make repairs a little harder because it doesn't sand so nice. I'd think about cutting off all the loose stuff with a razor blade (and if possible sand off anything that looks questionable) and then cover the blade with either fiberglass or dynel. Personally I'd want fresh cloth over top to try and keep it from delaminating any more than it already has. I'd be tempted to do the other side as well as preventative maintenance.

Alan
 
Here are some better photos.

The paddle is fairly light weight. My current thinking is to use some 4 oz s glass on both sides (seems a nice paddle and worth buying some s glass) and dynel around the edges. Mix carbon in the epoxy for UV protection and a uniform black finish color. Peel ply for the finished look on the blade. Am I heaed in the right direction???

Paddle003 (2).JPG


THE OTHER SIDE


Paddle001 (2).JPG


GRIP


Paddle004 (2).JPG


Paddle002 (2).JPG
 
The paddle is fairly light weight. My current thinking is to use some 4 oz s glass on both sides (seems a nice paddle and worth buying some s glass) and dynel around the edges. Mix carbon in the epoxy for UV protection and a uniform black finish color. Peel ply for the finished look on the blade. Am I heaed in the right direction???

Sounds about right, I guess. I’m still trying to wrap my head around how the blade faces got into that condition. The one side looks almost like prolonged UV exposure and the other side like a Rorschach test. I see Trucker mudflap girls dancing around a campfire.

4oz fiberglass cloth on one side at a time with the blade held level. Trace out a blade shaped template and use that to cut the glass. I cut the glass a little larger than the paddle blade and try to make sure the drooped cloth perimeter is epoxy adhered to the edge of the blade. Peel ply over that

It takes some repeated convincing as the epoxy sets up to get the cloth edges to maintain that shape and adhesion along the edges. Eventually decide that is as good as it gets/epoxy is firming up. You will need to cut and sand the needle sharp projections of stray cloth off before doing the other side. If you have a little raised cloth “lip” you can fill that with thickened G/flex, or even some kind of FRP “cord” for blade edging. Carbon fiber tow is near weightless.*

Cutting the cloth on the bias might help it lay down along the sharper blade curves, but that wastes a lot of cloth.

Add some graphite powder to the epoxy mix if you are going for black blades. You could also try adding a tiny dab of black pigment, but pigment doesn’t provide much color unless it is being sucked up by bare fabric.

Let it cure, sand it lightly, alcohol wipe and spray it with black paint for some UV top coat.

*One beware, it is easy to add weight to a paddle, and it doesn’t take much weight to throw off the balance of a well designed blade. Even an extra ounce can make a noticeable difference.
 
The tooth picks show the delamination. If it's just in those spots, it might be OK. I'd be tempted take it all off the blade anyway, and start over.

Just me .

Jim
 
The tooth picks show the delamination. If it's just in those spots, it might be OK. I'd be tempted take it all off the blade anyway, and start over.

Jim, I would too, especially if it is already showing signs of delaminating. The adhesion of the new epoxy and cloth will only be as secure as the suspect stuff underneath. RO and hand sanded down to bare whatever and start anew with epoxy and cloth.

But sometimes there is a “right” way, a “wrong” way, and an in between way. If I know the person or know their style, shop tools and materials sometimes the in-between way is best advice.

I would cover it in carbon... I think...

I might as well. Willie has no carbon, nor any glass cloth, at SlackerBoatworx. He has some leftover Dynel cloth and mentioned covering the blades using that. The result would likely have turned a lightweight paddle into an unbalanced club that weighed as much as an old Norse.

Another friend recently told me of his plan to turn a 12x12 piece of 1 inch thick minicel into two pieces 12x12, each ½ inch thick, using a large, unfamiliar band saw. I am hoping I convinced him that “Lefty” is not the new nickname he really wants.
 
It looks to me as if both faces of the paddle were reinforced with 4 ounce fiberglass which has simply worn through on the power face. The fabric reinforcing the shaft up by the grip looks as if it might be aramid. It needs some epoxy but otherwise looks reasonably intact.

I would probably just sand smooth both faces of the paddle, removing any delaminated fiberglass in the process. If the paddle is going to receive an opaque finish, either by adding graphite powder to the resin, or by painting, I see no reason to try to sand off all the remaining fabric if it is well-attached. I would then apply a coat of resin to both sides of the paddle blade before covering each side with a layer of 4 ounce fiberglass.

The radius along the edges of this Sugar Island style paddle look to me to be gentle enough that an edge reinforcing strip of Dynel cut along the lines of the weave (not bias cut) will probably lay down pretty well. If the paddle owner wants a black finish, adding graphite powder is certainly an option. The paddle might not look that bad without any opaque treatment once it is finished.

Carbon is certainly an option, but for those who haven't used it, getting it wetted out while keeping the weave nice and straight is not that easy. Of course, that is only a cosmetic consideration. I think the paddle will be plenty strong enough with the 4 ounce fiberglass reinforcement.
 
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