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Outer Vinyl Coating Of RoyalEx Canoe

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Spots to be have g/flex and fiberglass placed.

Would you recommending the spots where the foam core is visible to get more exposure and area for the g/flex to adhere to?
G Flex will adhere to exposed ABS foam core just fine. The irregular surface provides for a strong mechanical bond. I have to say that the solid ABS layer that had been exposed looks quite "sick" to me. I don't know if that is a result of photodegredation, some problem at the production level, or some type of chemical exposure that also caused the vinyl to separate so easily. I fear that if you simply painted over that it would be very prone to cracking and abrasion.
 
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I found this gem of a video on youtube. I thought I'd share it.
If you decide to go ahead and fiberglass over the damaged hull you want either 4 ounce/square yard or 6 ounce/square yard plain weave fabric and you don't want a tight weave fabric. Tight weave fabrics are more difficult to wet out adequately especially with G Flex epoxy which is more viscous than conventional epoxy.
 
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G Flex will adhere to exposed ABS foam core just fine. The irregular surface provides for a strong mechanical bond. I have to say that the solid ABS layer that had been exposed looks quite "sick" to me. I don't know if that is a result of photodegredation, some problem at the production level, or some type of chemical exposure that also caused the vinyl to separate so easily. I fear that if you simply painted over that it would be very prone to cracking and abrasion.
I planned on using G/Flex on all of the bare ABS then sanding it down. I may do the same with the vinyl layer to make sure that it doesn't come up any more. It may be a little uneven but hopefully not so much to make the hydrodynamics a shit show
 
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The progress so far. G/Flex and 6oz sea-glass fiberglass over the most troubled areas. Some areas are further reinforced with a extra layer of fiberglass to protect the area and individual patches. I am out of gflex already and will have to get more this week. I plan on covering the rest of the hull in it, then sanding with 120 grit. I'll see what it looks like after all that is done and I may have to apply more fiberglass and epoxy.


Anymore recommendations or bits of advice?

Also, don't put your arm in the epoxy on accident and forget about it. You very well might get your arm stuck to the dest whilst typing this message.
 

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Glenn MacGrady

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The progress so far.
Looking good, Tristan. After this, YOU will be the official how-to-repair-vinyl-peeled-off-canoe expert.

We will all also be interested in follow-up reports after you use the canoe as to how it performs and what, if anything, you might have done differently in the repair process. Part of the purpose of this site is to be a repository of informational threads for future canoe paddlers, builders, repairers, outfitters, etc.
 
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In the too-late-now realm, should you ever do more glass and epoxy work, release treated peel ply, laid atop the wet epoxy and lightly compressed, will eliminate 90% of the subsequent sanding work.

With the use of peel ply a quick buzz with 220 is all that is needed for a topcoat. In end results and sanding time saved release treated peel ply is worth the cost when doing patching repairs.
 
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Looking good, Tristan. After this, YOU will be the official how-to-repair-vinyl-peeled-off-canoe expert.

We will all also be interested in follow-up reports after you use the canoe as to how it performs and what, if anything, you might have done differently in the repair process. Part of the purpose of this site is to be a repository of informational threads for future canoe paddlers, builders, repairers, outfitters, etc.
It's an honor to be given such a royal title. I plan on taking the canoe out for its paces with a day of fishing, having extra weight in it that I will take canoe camping with me, etc.

Something I wish I had done before I bit the bullet and painted, was put g/flex across the rest of the bare ABS bottom.

I just used rustoleum enamel paint. There are several layers of paint on the bottom of that boat to make sure it's well protected. I also experimented with something and I loved how it turned out. I painted, let it dry, LIGHTLY sanded with 220 grit, then put epoxy over it, then painted it again. It's a extra layer of nearly permanent protection since the enamel paint is under the epoxy.

Here is a not so quick explanation:

1. Sand entire body with 120 grit, if there is any already existing UV damage that reaches the inner foam core (ex. in photos in thread) sand down to where you can expose the foam core slightly. Don't sand half way through. Just enough where it's slightly rough against your finger. This will give surface area and rough areas for epoxy to adhere to.

2. Clean with soap and water.

3. Wipe any extra residue with acetone,

4. 50/50 g/flex 650 hardener and epoxy. If you're working on a warmer day, try to work out of the sun. It will avoid unnecessary exposure to UV when it comes to the ABS and your skin. It will also help the epoxy not harden within 30 minutes. Especially when it's 90+ degrees. Work at night if possible with good light.

5. Lay epoxy across the exposed foam core and ABS .5in to 1 in past the injury area. This will give more than enough buffer area to make sure it (fiberglass) adheres and wets out all the way around.

6. On any already exposed foam core, lay patches of Seaglass 6 oz. fiberglass cut to fit over the injury area. Use spreaders to lay the fiberglass flush with the hull of the boat and area you're fitting it to.

7. G/flex over the fiberglass to completely wet it out.

Repeat steps 5-7 for exposed inner foam core if there are multiple spots needing work.

For extra protection on more troublesome areas that may see more rocks, impacts, have had more damage (bottom of hull, low sides, etc.) I recommend cutting larger sections of fiberglass and working them around these troubled areas. It will serve as a bit of reinforcement.

Depending on whether you do this as you're working on filling patches OR you wait until the epoxy from these patches dry over the night into the next day, you will want to either work quickly to lay epoxy on all the areas surrounding the troubled areas or sand the dried and set epoxy.

If you decide to work the same day, have all your fiberglass PRE-cut to size. Patches, and area covers for the patches. That way you're not scrambling to mix epoxy, lay epoxy, get fiberglass cut in time, laid out, pressed, etc.

Lay all the epoxy on the area you're working on at once. go .5 inches to 1 inch past where you're planning on having the fiberglass stop at. It will save the headache of having to mix, peel, and repress the fiberglass back down.

I made the mistake of starting from the center of a piece of fiberglass. It turned into a slight nightmare having to pull it up constantly to place more epoxy. After a while the fiberglass started to stick to itself like duct tape. Not fun.

(Repeating) After I had all my patches and reinforcement fiberglass dried and sanded I spray painted with rustoleum enamel paint. After that dried I epoxied over parts of it to experiment. Sanded again, then painted again. I liked the results.
 
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Nice save, despite some early miscues. Do you have a painting plan or outfitting intentions?
I just used some Rustoleum spray paint. Right above this message is a more detailed explanation. I am looking to make some fishing rod holders in the near future. Kinda a side project.
 
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I would feather the edges of your patches, make sure that the weave of the fabric is completely filled, and sand down any epoxy runs and sags before painting.
I wish I had seen your message before I painted. I'll do some more work on the epoxy run later but it isn't much of an issue with the exception of cosmetically. I did use literally four kits of g/flex 650 on this project. I have a start of a 5th kit gone. I made sure there was enough epoxy. haha
 
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