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Lofting Canoe Molds from CanoeCraft tables

LOL Jim! You're not helping.

It looks to me like your points aren't in the proper order.
The pictures I posted are from the offsets in Canoecraft, those are not from your file and there is no automation in this case so there is no right or wrong order.

What I was trying to show was how bad the results are when automating -curve through points- as opposed to drawing a curve manually and omitting some points to make the curve fair by using curve analysis and some "feeling". As the points are not perfect, I'm suspecting that the best result will not come from letting CAD draw the curve by automation. What I'm searching for in all of this is what method will yield the best end result.

What I am doing now is that I'm trying to get a firm grip on how to loft and work with hull shapes. How to take a hull shape from plans, to finished boat and maybe the other way to. I'm pretty good at drafting and drawing but having control over the subtleties in hull shapes is a big challenge and it's difficult. That's why I'm so into all of these points and curves and fairness and whatnot.

I'm not building a canoe now, although if I were building a tandem the Freedom 17 is a strong candidate. If I will build another strip canoe I will print or hand loft full scale plans, spray glue them to particle board, ruff cut on band saw and lastly fine tune on bench mounted belt sander to the middle of the line. This is how I did it for the Kite and it worked great. Very exact method!


Yup ! That might be a real Challenge to Strip !
Well actually maybe not, I don't know? Strip building is a little forgiving. I wouldn't buy those plans though lol.
 

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Thank you for you tutorial on lofting, I just bought "canoecraft" and I find this a very useful addition to the book. However I missing the accounting for the plank thickness.

The book states: "If plans are being drawn from these offsets, the 1/4-inch plank thickness will be deducted from the body plan or half-breaths after lofting the waterlines full size." (page 42, 13.reprint)

So IMHO you should correct each mold the same way you corrected the stem template.
 
Can't really argue with the logic, you are likely correct ... however, I suspect it will make little actual difference to the build or final product.

Brian
 
The book states: "If plans are being drawn from these offsets, the 1/4-inch plank thickness will be deducted from the body plan or half-breaths after lofting the waterlines full size." (page 42, 13.reprint)

So IMHO you should correct each mold the same way you corrected the stem template.
I think that was the case for the earlier editions of the book but it has since been changed. The picture is from my Canoecraft where I underlined that passage an wrote Incorrect.



Here is a quote from the Bear Mountain Boats FAQ:

"I want to double-check – do the offset measurements for the molds make an allowance for the 1/4 inch strip thickness, or are they the outside finished size of the hull?
Yes, all our designs make an allowance for planking thickness.!"
 

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