Kite +6%

[BigandSmall]

I applied the third coat of varnish today inside and out after roughing with maroon Scotchbrite on my RO with interface pad. I then gave it a vacuum, a wash and a wipe before tack clothing. I managed to get the whole inside and out with one 2" foam brush. Normally I use two but I'm running low. It's finally warming up here so hopefully this coat will cure a little faster than the previous ones.

I have a few spots in the varnish where I don't have it completely level. Do you guys think I should use 180grit on the interface pad to level it before the final coat or do you have a different suggestion?

 

[Gamma1214]

I have a few spots in the varnish where I don't have it completely level. Do you guys think I should use 180grit on the interface pad to level it before the final coat or do you have a different suggestion?

I'd figure the scratches of using it will cover them but I'm the reason that I can't have nice things & usually stop at level-ish. YMMV

 

[BigandSmall]

Sorry for the delay guys I had other projects I had to get ready for spring. I also wasn't having success in getting the end caps figured out. After seeing Cruiser's "Faberge end caps" I was hoping to get something that looked decent. I spent a day making some wood patterns I was planning to cut out of aluminum. The lower pieces I was cutting and bending to weld to them just weren't turning out though. The way the aluminum gunnel is rounded makes it difficult to get something looking decent. I decided in the end to go back to the original plan of the plastic end caps and to try to make those work.

I started by cutting the caps in half lengthwise then marking each for center and using a hand plane to shave them down. I then put some rake on them planing down the back side so it would clear the tumblehome section better. I broke out the heat gun and re-shaped the nose bit before using 60 grit on the RO to further shave the center line. Once they were close I roughed the inside the taped them up. I used some JB Plastic Bonder and pieces of S glass I cut as well as some 2" tape. I started by rubbing the glue into the crack then laying glass over top and wrapping a piece around the nose followed by another layer over top. Initially I was hoping these might make patters to 3d print from but they didn't turn out too badly. I used a Dremel to grind down any high spots and had to sand the tips of the boat a little to conform to the caps. I drilled holes for some bolts (or black rivets) and one for a lifting eye bolt too. I need to epoxy seal the holes now add a little glass to toughen around the eye bolt.

The caps look ok from a few feet back and seem strong. Hopefully seal them in a few days then get on that last coat of varnish.

 

[BigandSmall]

When I went to do a little glass reinforcing above the bolt I saw I drilled poorly and didn't have room for a washer behind the bolt because I was too close to the float tank. Instead I cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum and will drill and tap it for M8. After I get it threaded on hopefully I'll have enough thread showing to Loctite a nut on there. Getting to this point was a pain, angle grinder, tin snips, then Dremel. I should have thought more about this before I riveted the aluminum on.


If you guys were ordering some line to walk the canoe through a rough section on the river how long a rope would you want tied onto that eyebolt?

 

[Pseudonym]

I use 23' of painter line on my 17' canoe and drill through the hull close to the water line, so that when I pull on the line laterally I'm less likely to tip the canoe.

A Tale of Two Trippers

I own a pair of Old Town Trippers. I purchased them two years apart from one another, from a gentlemen who inherited them from his father. His father had been a submarine engineer, working out of the Naval Submarine Base in New London, CT. The first Tripper, I found in a craigslist ad and...

www.canoetripping.net

I like to use a painter line that floats. If memory serves, it's a 3/8" double-braided polypropylene rope:

https://www.rwrope.com/shop/novabraid-novalite-rope-21785#attr=7447,7460,7461,16479,16481

 

[BigandSmall]

Thanks for that Pseudonym

I drilled an tapped the aluminum chunks then ordered a couple more slightly longer bolts. I then put the last coat of varnish on the inside. After that I sealed the holes I'd drilled and applied a little glass. Once it set some I trimmed it off and pressed the upper loose ends flat. It's not super pretty but it's covered. So close now.

 

[BigandSmall]

Installed the eye bolts then put schmutz behind it to distribute the force. When I riveted the caps on they domed in the middle unfortunately.

 

[BigandSmall]

Took it out to the backyard for a few pictures.

 

[dutchlennart]

You can be very proud of this canoe. Hope it paddles as good as it looks. I have not much doubt about it.
Looking forward to the first pics of the boat on the water

 

[memaquay]

Super nice job! You are a real craftsman!

 

[Gamma1214]

Beautiful job! Do you have a final weight?

 

[Jim Dodd]

Looks Awesome !

I see you posted that your seat is 29.9cm (about 12"), aft of center.

Are you planning to paddle with a dog, or extra gear ?

A pic of the profile, when you are in it, while on the water, would be great !

Again very nice !

Jim

 

[Cruiser]

Very nice job, you are going to be so stoked during the first ride .....

Brian

 

[BigandSmall]

Thanks guys, the final weight was 51.2 pounds with everything bolted up or 23.3kg. Jim, the seat is just over 10.5" aft of center (26.9cm). You can see in this pic with me that the boat carries a fair bit of volume in the back. Looks pretty Swede form in that pic. After reading all of the info Memaquay has posted on here I went with his suggestion from a different thread of 10" and added 6% to it. It'll be good.

Also adding this one of it in the evening sun that can be my profile pic.


Heading for a test paddle after lunch. Pretty sunny out but I bet water temp is maybe 5 degrees C, 41 degrees F.