P.S.: What a nice job the previous owner did on the interior stripping! That alone should speed up the restoration.
Robin you lied!!
Good on ya for getting those ribs out. We were unsure how to do that and just epoxied the cracks.
Take pictures of your steam bag outfit when you get it ready!
That’s my first wood canvas canoe, a Chestnut Pal, 16’. It’s 19 new ribs and new inwales too, but after doing all those ribs I found the bottom of the canoe rounded out, so I have it weighed down trying to flatten it out on the cement floor. In the end, I think I’ll need to use boiling water, weight on the thwarts, and my flat driveway to get the bottom less rounded.Robin, what's the unfinished hull on the floor under the rack?
Let me guess....
From top to bottom:
It had a lot more plank when I installed the new ribs, but it was cupped and split from age and water damage. No flex at all with the new inwales. I have some left over ribs from Connecticut days plus enough plank. Cedar seems pretty easy to get here.Wow, the Pal needs quite a lot of planking. I don't think I'd have the nerve to remove so much. More likely, I would remove a couple of courses of planking- infill with new- then remove a couple more, etc. I imagine removing so much could make the canoe quite flexible and prone to getting twisted as you install new planks. Maybe not... I haven't done so much extensive re-planking.
Do you mill your own ribs and planks or have them done locally? I imagine being so close to Eastern White Cedar harvesters it might not be too difficult to find stock to mill on your own.
Yes, I have the old cracked stripped ribs and some of the new material. I tried Gunstock, too dark, then I tried Ipswich pine, closer but not great. See photo, new cedar on the left, gunstock is the darker/Ipswich pine the lighter.Do you have more / similar rib stock to practice on?