Alan's Bloodvein II

[Jim Dodd]

Now that I've started some strips with that perfect edge, I'll agree that using a joiner is a great idea. I think it would allow me to slice up the entire 14 inch board without the edge becoming too wavy, and it makes it unnecessary to discard the first strip.

As for thickness planing; I don't do that. I'll cut the bead first and then force the strips between the shaper bit and a solid fence when I cut the coves. That uniforms strip width for me and saves a step.

I'm not saying that planing boards or starting with finished lumber isn't OK, I'm just trying to assure anyone interested that you don't need a lot of tools to build these boats. A shaper or router table (IMO) eliminates the need for a planer and, in a pinch, you can eliminate the need for a joiner by discarding the 1st strip (but you'll have to be more careful holding consistent pressure on the saw to follow the edge).

Yes ! Running your strips between the fence and the bit !, for one eliminates the need to plane your planks. The Router does that for you, when you bead and cove.

Jim

 

[sailsman63]

Some boards will move as you remove material as internal stresses are relieved. When I was using cottonwood those planks really tended to crook while cutting strips, despite being jointed before hand. I stopped 2-3 times during each plank for a quick run over the jointer to keep it true during the process.

Alan

Honestly, when cutting strips you don't need a perfectly straight edge. You need one with a smooth enough line that your cutting jig of choice (including Tablesaw fences if that's your poison) can give you a consistent thickness coming off the blade. I haven't used the circular saw technique, but I'm surprised at the issue @Gamma1214 ran into with the edge going crazy like that.

 

[memaquay]

I'm with Alan, I will often joint a plank more than once during ripping. A really good fence system will help. I stripped 20 planks yesterday, for the first hour I was getting very good results, but eventually I grew weary of the enforced torture and began rushing the process, and the inevitable narrow spots began to appear. That's always an indication that it's time to stop. But I didn't, so I will just live with the results.

Not sure about a shaper, but a router table does not ensure consistency of different width strips. The strips are generally held secure by some type of feather board, and the feather board will allow different widths to pass through. In my current process, I realized that I had cut some strips extra wide by turning the last bit of the plank the wrong way. After bead and coving, they were noticeably wider than the other strips. As much as I want to skip odious and time consuming steps, such as thickness planing, I find it best not to.

 

[Gamma1214]

I use feather boards to hold the strip during the beading process but then back off the (blade side) guide on the infeed side of the shaper and replace it with a spring. I then install a stationary fence in place of the feather board. To prevent any binding, this fence stops just after the bit and another feather board holds the strip against the outfeed fence. I hope that makes sense... I think I took some pictures and I'll look for them in a bit... gotta see a girl about a horse (or 3)

 

[sailsman63]

Not sure about a shaper, but a router table does not ensure consistency of different width strips. The strips are generally held secure by some type of feather board, and the feather board will allow different widths to pass through.

The guys who use a router table to finish-width their strips are running the strip between the bit and the fence. Huge safety no-no in pretty much any other circumstance, but with cedar being so soft they get away with it.

 

[Gamma1214]

The guys who use a router table to finish-width their strips are running the strip between the bit and the fence. Huge safety no-no in pretty much any other circumstance, but with cedar being so soft they get away with it.

That's essentially what I do except that I build a temporary fence (I use a scrap piece if square tubing), install a piece of 1/8 inch wire as a crowder that pushes the strip against the square tubing and then install a piece of aluminum angle where the wooden fence used to be. The angle is bent upward on the infeed side and fits just tight enough to keep the strips against the table.

In this picture, you can see the wire below the aluminum angle and the feather board that holds the strip against the table on the outfeed and also prevents the strip from kicking back. (feather board is just screwed into the wooden fence of the shaper).



It actually does a pretty nice job of uniforming the strips as can be seen on this video. Notice that the bit removes a lot more material near the beginning than it does at the end. (Sorry about the redirect off-site but video cannot be loaded directly onto CTN)