What Size Spinning Rod for Paddlecraft?

[boy&hisdogs]

I am not new to fishing in general, but I am new to fishing from a canoe/yak, new to warm water, and I was fly-only for a few years. I have a 9 foot medium wt spinning rod that I originally got for walking the beach and casting in the surf. It's great from the beach but I think it might be a bit much from a tiny boat and/or the typical tight cover of a riverbank. Other than that all I have is my deep sea boat rod and a 6 wt fly rod and 8 wt switch rod.

I plan to fish rivers and ponds, both from both in and out of the boat. Eastern Washington. Typical warm water stuff like, bass, walleye, crappie, bluegill, cats, carp, and so on. I got a 6'6" medium wt spinning rod but still have the tags on so I could still exchange it for something else. As a teen I had a 7ft med wt that went everywhere with me and was an excellent all-rounder, so I naturally gravitated towards something close to that but part of me wonders if I should have gone shorter/lighter for the boat and bank.

What do you all think?

 

[Boreal Birch]

I would say, whatever you are comfortable with.
I fish a few bamboo fly rods that are7’6” four weights to 8’ six weights, I also have a couple graphite 10’ six and seven weights. And a fiberglass S glass five weight fly/spinning pack rod combination, that is an eight footer. Which rod or rods I take depends on target species and waters most likely that we will be fishing.
I have found casting flies from a canoe seat more difficult than wading. I practice lawn casting from a chair or sitting on the ground to help prepare me for that.
A good stern paddler that positions the canoe is more important than most people realize. Knowing where your back cast is, is very important to you and the person at the other end of the canoe. I also take a net with a longer collapsible handle.

Guess I should have read the title of this thread, hope I didn’t hurt anyone’s tender feeling’s with thread drift, If I did, I apologize.

 

[memaquay]

The 6'6 spinning combo is just about perfect for a canoe in my opinion. Not too big, not too small. Run 8 pound line off it, anything heavier, you might have a hard time breaking line from a snag in a canoe.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I like 6'6" medium fast.
And I insist on 2 piece rods. One piece rods are okay if they live on a boat or whatever but for being able to stow a rod in a canoe, portaging, or in the vehicle, a one piece is cumbersome.

 

[Punkinhead]

Anything between 6-7' works for me. I prefer lighter rods since I mostly catch smallmouth and rock bass. I usually use an ultralight rod with 4lb line or 6 lb line with a light rod with fast action. I don't go heavier on the line so I can cast lighter lures.

 

[Gamma1214]

On trips, I carry two 7 foot, medium light, fast action rods spooled with 4-6 lb flourocarbon line. The same two that I use for finesse fishing on my bass boat.

Pike often break off pretty easily and you'll be awhile landing a nice smallie or laker but I tried lightweight braid briefly and, as mem says, it's tough to break off when snagged.

I make sure that they're tied into the inside of the canoe during portages but I still broke a rod tip doing the Marshall Lake loop this past year (which is why I carry 2 rods... stuff happens & I don't want to be out of business when one breaks and, of course, they will... all part of the game that we play)

 

[Steve in Idaho]

One of the places I fish puts me among a lot of trees with low hanging limbs. I use an ultralight 4.5' spinning rig for that. Since it's a lake, if I need more reach I can just paddle closer.

Most of the rest of the time, I'm using my 5.5' ultralight with 5 lb Spiderwire. It's surprising how far I can cast with that. Having a very efficient reel design helps a lot.

(Edit: I've switched to 10 lb Power Pro (braided Spectra). Stronger but just as thin/light.)

I do use a fly rod sometimes if there's room to do so. I takes some practice, but I've learned that I can cast effectively from sitting - even moreso from kneeling.

 

[scoutergriz]

I second the 5 1/2' utralight, mine is a custom made from a cut down daiwa 2wt fly blank- short enough to easily handle in the boat, while still enough backbone and flex to handle the bigger stuff, it also is sensitive enough for the "shy biters", I've never even tried line heavier than 6lb, it was more than enough for a nice 14lb brown trout a few years ago...

 

[Jmharrick]

I usually bring a 7’ medium weight fast action rod with a 2500 series reel. I use 20 pound braid, but always tie on a 10 pound fluorocarbon leader if fishing for bass or walleye. The leader serves two purposes, it’s less visible than the braid and breaks more easily if snagged. With pike I use a 30 lb wire leader but use floating rapala’s so the chance of a snag is reduced.

but I still broke a rod tip

Gamma, you probably know this, but they make rod tip repair kits that pack up small and light. Basically it’s just a new eye and stick of glue you melt with a lighter. I’ve replaced rod tips on remote trips several times without issue.

 

[Gamma1214]

Gamma, you probably know this...

I am aware but, at least to me, they just don't seem to fish the same. I guess everybody has their idiosyncrasies... I can drive a truck with 5 different colors of paint and enough miles that most wouldn't drive it beyond walking distance of home; bash canoes off of rocks and drag them over portages, even forget to pack a tent for a 2 week trip and none of that ever bothers me. I break a rod tip and I'm just packing out the garbage so I can save the reel and not leave (shtuff) in the forest.

I'll replace line guides if the ceramic gets cracked but the tip is a deal breaker. (just weird that way)

 

[Jmharrick]

they just don't seem to fish the same

I agree. When you lose 2 inches on a fast action tip, it’s no longer a fast action, but bringing the repair kit keeps you in the game vs hauling garbage the rest of the trip.