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Self-learning to pole upstream - bow control and other tips?

Overall, I'm still not clear whether one generally wants to be bow light or bow heavy when poling up or down a river, other than you want to be bow light when trying to ascend upstream over a ledge.

Seems like the answer is: "it depends". Thankfully when poling, trim is easily adjusted on the fly by means of hopping.

This is why discussing it will never be as helpful as getting the boat in the water and practicing. Learning by repeated failure is the way. It does depend on a lot of variables, including which boat you're standing in.

I break these bow light/heavy "rules" all the time, depending on the situation. They don't even seem to apply much in hulls like the NC Prospector and MR Guide, in which I pretty much just hang out close behind the yoke or just ahead of the seat, respectively.

Moderate symmetrical rocker kind of makes it irrelevant - but tends to come with a less efficient hull.

And you can easily carry this past the point of diminishing returns. It's good to have all these things in mind, but ultimately, it takes time in the boat pushing your limits (and failing) to drill this into your brain/body. I remember being told years ago by someone on the old P.net - "If you aren't swimming, you aren't learning".
 
Standing farther back does make it easier to avoid introducing yaw while pushing hard, but also reduces your leverage for heeling. Sometimes it's an advantage, sometimes not.

I can get more leverage for heeling from the stern while seated because my weight is resting higher on the hull as apposed to it being on the bottom of the boat. You could try standing on the stern seat. Hahaha.

I think keeping the upstream end of your boat as light as possible in a current makes it easier. You need to keep two things in mind though. First you still need to be stable and second you need to be aware of any downstream breeze and weight your bow accordingly. I've seen old photos of Maine guides with a client sitting on the floor of the boat just ahead of the center thwart instead of on the more comfortable bow seat. I thought this would be unnecessary in my 20' EM White because of how easy the boat spins when loaded with a pretty level trim. I found out otherwise when poling on the Delaware. With my wife in the bow seat I was unable to control the bow even with her doing an appropriate draw to help out. When I had her move back behind the bow thwart I got up with no problem. My conclusion was that when you think your bow light, lighten it some more.

I personally don't think being bow heavy has any place in poling unless it's to briefly pin your bow for a maneuver. Pretty much the same for paddling. When the wind is strong enough that I need to be continually bow heavy, that's about the same time I get off the water.
 
I think keeping the upstream end of your boat as light as possible in a current makes it easier.
Definitely makes it easier to control the bow going against the current. But requires more thrust per FPS.

lowangle al said:
....you need to be aware of any downstream breeze and weight your bow accordingly.
Wind complicates things for sure.

I personally don't think being bow heavy has any place in poling unless it's to briefly pin your bow for a maneuver. Pretty much the same for paddling. When the wind is strong enough that I need to be continually bow heavy, that's about the same time I get off the water.
I was fighting a headwind while poling down the lower Payette in the Coho one day. Current was strong and the wind kept increasing. Eventually, I was clear up in the bow (ahead of where the seat would be if there was one) and kayak-stroking. That was working well until I tried to catch an eddy on river right. With the sudden stop and the whole boat swinging around behind me, I did a clean dive over port bow.
 
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