For those that like to use a double bladed paddle. A 6" drop is pretty comfortable.
One potential complication to using long gunwale-hung drops is the limited availability of machine screws in lengths over 6 inches.
A 6 inch machine screw, less ¾ inch for the seat frame depth, minus room for a flange washer on top and flat washer and nylock on the bottom yields a 5 inch drop at best.
6 inch machine screws have other complications with my outfitting style. That long a drop works more rigidly with a truss hanger than swaying around on drill
Note as well: unless you do a lot of canoe seat tinkering how many people just happen to have a 3/16 or ¼ inch drill bit that long?
Yep, me too. The other day I was taking a break and took a look at the seat in my OT Camper. Some knucklehead had installed the stern seat with the longer dowels in the rear. That explained the uncomfortable seat. Problem solved, much more comfortable now.I like seats that are canted a little forward.. about an inch lower in the front than the rear.. This helps avoid back strain when sitting or kneeling for me.
Mike, I have used 1/4" Carriage bolts forever. My Hardware store carries them in at least 7" length. They are NOT stainless. Stainless can be ordered, but check your line of credit, as they are pricey.
On every solo I have ever been new to, I have always, after paddling it some, adjusted the seat several times(usually up) before settling on a height/angle. A boat that feels tender at first quickly becomes Ok and I raise the seat up.(I kneel). After a first long paddle I often fine tune the height or angle for comfort. Once when picking up a new boat in the ADKs and going directly on a paddle, I brought some spacers and tools to do it there. My intension is to make solid drops after settling on a height, but usually I don't get around to it.
Why not a truss drop Jim? I'd think with that much drop those pillars would be prone to wobble.