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Lightweight Lining Ropes

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My lining ropes are heavy. The material holds water, doesn’t float like I thought. It’s not a big deal, except when tripping, carrying everything on my back. I was able to dodge one 35 rod portage in the whole trip. Had water been a little higher, there would have been more.

What material & construction do you like for lining ropes? A source would be appreciated too, since it’s tough online to know exactly what you’re getting.

Thanks.
 
I've started using 1/4 inch braided polyester rope for painters and just cut the 100 ft roll in 1/2. It doesn't add much weight but I'm not certain that it floats either.

Alternatively, I've used 1/8 inch diameter paracord which weighs (practically) nothing and I always have lots of it around. Much like the Frank's RedHot commercial says: "I put that $hit on everything" (I'm almost certain that it does not float though)
 
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northwater offers all their lines by meter/foot it depends a lot where i paddle what rope i bring on flat/slow deep water 6 mm is fine . on whietwater where the rope could also end up beingused isn salvaging swamped pinned boats. 10mm
 
I use 1/4” braided polypropylene ropes. Waterproof, floats, very low stretch and cheap in price.
 
First thing is that rescue rope used in a pin recovery and lining rope are rarely the same thing.

Lining rope (and painters) should float ALWAYS, the last thing you want is a rope that doesn't float that can get tangled up with underwater rocks or tree debris.

If you want to save your hands lining rope should be at least 3/8th (10mm or more, I prefer 11 or 12mm)

Lining ropes should be neither overly long or too short.

I use my painter lines which I prefer to be 1 - 2 meters/yards longer than the length of the boat so that you can have a good grip of both ropes regardless of which end of the canoe you are at and avoid having a mass of rope to get tangled in.

Unlike in a pin situation using a z-drag where stretch is not desirable a little stretch in lining/painter rope is ok.

If you encounter a situation that truly requires longer rope it's time to get out your throw bag, that rope is usually 70ft (anything shorter is next to useless for their intended use).

Poly is preferred over nylon which is subject to UV deterioration.
 
The CF trim on my NW Solo omits the crossbar handles which I usually coil my ropes on. I’m thinking about boring a hole in the integrated handle to coil the live end of painter/lining rope to.
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Poly pro is the material of choice.
I get it at Lowe's or Home Depot for pretty cheap.
Get it thick enough so it doesn't dig into your hand, if you have to drag the boat, but thin enough so it's easy to tie.
I like a nice bright color that's easy to see.
 
I am surprised that there hasn't been a single mention of Amsteel (Dyneema), it floats and is arguably the lightest, strongest rope you can get. You can get it in a range of sizes, something like the 7/64" is the most common choice.

I use it extensively for my hammocks and various camp rigging, the clothsline is 1.75 mm, lighter than butcher twine and has a break strength of about 550 lbs, the 2.2 mm version breaks around 650 lbs, the 7/64" is about 1500 lbs .... doesn't take water and is UV resistant.

That might be something to consider IMO.
 
I am sold on yacht braid nylon. It behaves and has good feel. I use it for halters on horses, and I have used for sailing like sheets and halyards. Once you get used to it, everything else seems clunky, weak and stiff. 1/4 inch is fine, 5/16 is better but I really like 3/8 especially in fast water with loaded canoes. I rarely use gloves and it is easy on the hands.

On big western rivers, the Barren Lands and lots of other places lining is a way of life. You spend money for good canoes, good paddles, good packs and clothing, why cheap out on polypropylene lines?

The first thingI do when I buy a new power boat or sail boat is look carefully at the lines. Most of them are junk and need to be replaced.
 
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