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Jack's Special/ Chestnut Chum

Used Sys 3 clear coat for wet out coat, then general purpose system three with #2 hardner for fill coats. The beauty of using those little foam rollers is that it is quite difficult to develop any runs. When using a paint brush to do fill coats, I always get runs because i overload my brush. This one has 5 thin fill coats, if it looks like it needs one more tomorrow, I will slap another on. I'm one of those always do things more than they need it kind of guys though.
 
That looks like a Chum, excellent! Looking forward to seeing it flipped over. Are you going to put a center thwart in it or move the seat towards the center as a solo canoe.
I like the stock front seat location when I flip my Chum around, it trims out nice with two packs up front and I never have to mess with portable center thwarts, but I figure you will probably like this to be a solo. Nice work, glad you did so well with the plans.
Hope you foot heals nicely.

Like this guy, I like to sit back in the canoe with packs,
lg_CAN03jackspecial_zps6be2b8b1.jpg
 
I haven't decided about the seat yet Robin, although I have been thinking about it.I will probably have a front and aft thwart and a removable center yoke. I'm thinking the seat will be from 12 to 16 inches aft of center, but I'll play with it. Just in case you are around your's in the next little whi;e, do you think you could measure from the center thwart to the stern side of the bow seat?

Thanks!
 
That's a beauty for sure! I like the traditional look.

Hope your surgery goes well and they fix what needs fixing.
 
Was able to start working again the other day, figured I’d start with the extras for the Chum. I’m pretty sure the carrying yoke will be removable, and that’s what I started on. I decided to show this next little bit of wood butchery so that anyone who has never attempted to make a yoke before might see how easy it is.

I’m not overly picky when it comes to wood, I usually use what I have on hand. Right now I’ve got some 5/4 rough oak. Started out running it through the thickness planer.


Planed it down to 7/8 of an inch.

I have one template I use for all my carrying yokes, can’t remember where I developed it from, but it’s big and beefy and sits well on my shoulders.


I don’t have a lot of good tools, but one thing I didn’t scrimp on was my jigsaw. This one is a beauty, and cut through that oak like butter.



Here is my secret to sculpting hardwood. I used to use a chisel and mallet and carve the recessed part of the yoke out, and then use my spokeshave on all the hard angles. Now I just use a grinder with those flapper wheels. It’s insanely fast, although very dirty. I had the entire yoke roughed out in less than a half hour. If you try this, don’t use the grinder over any of your body parts that you wish to keep. It is a powerful tool that will chop skin, digits and bones off lickity split. However, once you get the hang of it, it can be a real finesse tool.



Flappy sand paper grinder thing (80 grit)



Finished up sanding it with my regular palm sander down to 150 grit, and will leave it at that. It’s supposed to warm up this weekend, so will probably varnish it then. Also got my seat cut out of oak, will put it together tomorrow. Ordered 100 feet of extra heavy 1.5 inch poly webbing from a Canadian company, came to 15 bucks, but the shipping and taxes brought it to over 30. Next week I’ll be working on the canoe again.

 
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Happy to see you back at it again. Someone needs to make some forward progress on this forum as a shining example to the rest of us slackers. ;)

Alan
 
I'll second the thought that we are glad to see you up and mobile. You made pretty short work of the yoke. Nice job. You give yourself too little credit for your woodworking skills. Looking forward to your progress!

Momentum
 
I have completed all the trim now except for the decks, which I will make once the gunwales are installed. You can see in the pic below, the shortest piece of for two grab handles, the longest piece is for two thwarts, and the seat is made extra large. All have two coats of varnish on them now. I went with the large seat because I'm pretty sure I have given up the war in the battle of the bulge. Last night we had friends over for a few beers around the fire. The night proceeded in the usual fashion, complete with a fly casting competition in the back yard in the dark, and ended when my wife cooked about four pounds of Nova Scotian scallops and about five pounds of local moose sausage on the bbq. All was consumed at midnight. It's pretty hard to say no to a feast like that.
 
You're not wasting any time getting back into the swing of things. Nice looking lumber. Webbing on the seat I assume?

You must have flipped her over by now....why haven't we seen a picture?

Alan
 
If you can build such a nice canoe, I'm sure you can make your self a great solid light paddle!!
 
Canoe is at the school. I'm back to work on Monday, so I expect to start making progress. I think I've got a buyer for my Osprey, he's taking it for a test paddle today, so there will be room in my garage for the new one! Not looking forward to that dirty inside sanding job though.
 
Using a roller to apply fill coats really pays off with the sanding. Got the entire hull done with 150 grit in about an hour.


Gave it a quick wipe down with water


Then popped it off the forms. Looks a lot different from the asymmetrical hulls I'm used to paddling, quite a high bow and stern. Anyway, hoping to take it to the garage at home today and start the satanic task of sanding the inside.


 
You know, since you are likely to paint the inside anyway, you don't need to sand it as much as the outside do you...
 
We'll see, thinking I'm not gonna paint the inside this time. Looks like a fairly easy sanding, for the inside. It's home now, hope to start tomorrow.
 
Congratulations on getting it off the form, and home.

You must have been pretty careful with your glue squeeze out and strip alignment if it only took you an hour to sand the outside.

Maybe your pictures lie, but it looks like the hull is a healthy width for lots of gear. What's the final width at gunwales supposed to be?

Glad to hear you are swinging towards not painting the inside of the hull. I'm all for the o-natural look.

Keep us posted on what you use for the interior sanding, and how it goes.

Thanks
 
Width at O station, or centre, is 31 inches. The hull is fairly large and round, with a fine entry line at the bow and stern. The hour is to sand the fiberglassed hull, not the bare hull, although the bare hull didn't take long either after I hand planed it. Oh well, gotta go cook a Mother's Day meal today, no more canoe work today.
 
I too am a roller fan ! Especially those "Cigar" type rollers. They move the resin around nicely without turning the resin milky.
Just started using them a few canoes back.

Inside sanding sends chills down my spine ! I never do enough. Think I've got it done, roll on a seal coat, and out pops lines, or curly Qs from my ROS !
Hate that, but have learned to survive it .
You build canoes and cook too? Enjoy the day !

Jim
 
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