DIY Cagoule Pattern/Design Discussion

[panhandlejensen]

Thanks for the add! Just picked up a Duluth Pack Paul Bunyan for a Family Trip in the BWCA out of Sag in June and found this community. My people! lol. I am wondering if anyone has a great Cagoule Pattern for Canoe Tripping. I started sewing last year and got the bug. I have made 4 “Cagoules” or “Anoraks” specifically for snowboarding. It has been a real pleasure to take up this DIY endeavor. I was tempted to make a go of pack making, which I still am interested in but it may be down the trail for me.
Anyway, I am interested in incorporating some of the communities ideas into a new jacket design. The picture is me in my first foray. I have since added 34” two way brass zippers to the side seams for access and venting as well as a gusset pocket. In the 90’s I sported a long coated nylon yellow Kokatat Parka with hand warmer pockets and Velcroed Neoprene Cuffs. It was an intense piece of gear.

What are some of your favorite jacket features for canoe tripping, specifically? Thanks in advance for your input and I apologize if I haven’t scoped the site out enough to find out this is a repetitive question.
Cheers from North Idaho, Erik Jensen

 

[tketcham]

Anyway, I am interested in incorporating some of the communities ideas into a new jacket design.

Welcome to canoetripping.com, the canoeist's forum.

I used to own a cagoule and liked it for many reasons, but gave up on it after finding that I couldn't swim very well with it on. The length, which fell below the knees, restricted my movement and could potentially turn a quick swim to shore into a drowning incident in cold water. I also stopped wearing it for hiking in uneven terrain because of the risk of tripping and hitting my head. I think as long as the length of your cagoule doesn't interfere with swimming it could be a practical garment for paddling.

 

[panhandlejensen]

Welcome to canoetripping.com, the canoeist's forum.

I used to own a cagoule and liked it for many reasons, but gave up on it after finding that I couldn't swim very well with it on. The length, which fell below the knees, restricted my movement and could potentially turn a quick swim to shore into a drowning incident. I also stopped wearing it for hiking in uneven terrain because of the risk of tripping and hitting my head. I think as long as the length of your cagoule doesn't interfere with swimming it could be a practical garment for paddling.

Well Said & noted. My jacket currently drapes below the knee but is mid-thigh when in a sitting position. I do like having my knees covered for warmth but a spray skirt and/or decent pants can manage that task.

 

[jdeerfoot]

In the early 1970’s I had one which I purchased from REI. I liked it for back packing and with gaiters it would keep you quite dry. A nice feature in mine was the ability to tie up the garment at your waist. Another benefit or drawback, depending on your perspective, would be the puddle of rain water which developed in your lap while paddling. I found it made for a convenient place for a quick sip of water.

 

[lowangle al]

Hi and welcome. I'm an anorak guy and have figured out what works for me. The one I wear in the warmer months is different then the one for cold weather and neither is waterproof. For most of the paddling season I like it made from lighter material, either cotton or light canvas and only go down a little past my waist. For colder times it needs to go down to almost my knees and a heavier cotton/canvas material is nice. Both need to have a secure hood, for either when it gets chilly or the bugs are bad. I like it cut big enough that I can get it on and of easily and I can wear it over my PFD. They both need to have a draw string at the waist to close it from wind or bugs. The sleeves need to be big enough that I can roll them up and still have some ventilation while having cuffs that can be closed up for warmth or bugs. I also like them to have an open V neck for better ventilation but one that can be securely closed for warmth when needed.


Winter


Summer.

 

[lowangle al]

Here is another view of the light summer one so you can see the length. This was yesterday, it works in winter as long as it isn’t a storm day. The heavier winter one is too much for summer wear.

 

[panhandlejensen]

View attachment 153589
Here is another view of the light summer one so you can see the length. This was yesterday, it works in winter as long as it isn’t a storm day. The heavier winter one is too much for summer wear.

Nice, Thanks for mentioning the PFD. Definitely an over/under design decision. I am a fan of the Astral as well. A buddy of mine let me borrow that same PFD for a trip once, in the rescue version.

 

[Boatman53]

Welcome to the campfire Panhandle. I used to live in the panhandle of Idaho but now reside in Maine.
Glad to have another sewer on board. I’ve been looking for a good anorak pattern for winter, not that I need three anoraks but I might make one just like I like. I have an old cagoule that is no longer waterproof and I’ve been meaning to unsew for a pattern. I’ll have to dig it out and photograph it first.
Jim

 

[ScottS]

I tried to photograph my anorak/cag pattern, but it is easier to describe it, and if you can sew one, you can work up your own pattern because it is an easy design. I like a long anorak that covers the meat of the butt and part of the thighs. I rolled my basic design off of a Great Pacific Iron Works cagoule circa 1980. It was a 100% function garment with no concern about how you looked apres ski.
Laid out on the ground, the finished anorak is T-shaped... the arms stick out straight to the side.
I am a Large and anoraks are cut roomy. My measures are off of a finished anorak - ADD SEAM ALLOWANCES. You probably should do your first one in canvas and not some pricey gore-tex stuff. It might help to sketch this out as you read.

1. The body is one piece of fabric - no shoulder seams. This is going to start as maybe a 7 ft long piece of fabric, probably the standard 55 inches wide. The body of the anorak is going to be about 36-38 inches wide.
2. The neck hole is a hard part and takes some futzing. Mine is ovalish, 12 inches long, 9 inches wide and biased a lot towards the front of the garment.
3. The hood is three pieces - 2 sides and a rectangularish piece between them. I add a optional tube for a drawstring at the hood opening and an also optional zipper. The zipper does not extend onto the body of the anorak.

Layout - pin it and try it on before doing any cutting. If in doubt, leave extra fabric and trim it. If you're really smart, you'll trace the pattern out just before sewing it. Remember the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
Fold the fabirc in half ie 3-1/2 ft by 55 inches. Remember, the body will be about 36-38 inches wide. I'd cut the body rectangle out at this time. On both edges of the body piece, the lower arm seam will be about 10" down from the shoulder fold. Pin the body (about 26-27 inches wide and until about 14-15 inches below the shoulder fold where you will curve over to the bottom of the shoulder seam (that 10" point).
Cut your neck hole...cut it small, try on, recut, try on until you like it. About 2 or 3 inches of the hole will be on the backside of the body, the rest of the hole on the front.
The lower part of the arms (about 18 inches) are trapezoids - folded flat mine are 10" to 7" at the cuff ie the fabric piece is 20" tapering to 14". The length is such that the edge of the cuff covers the palm of my hand when my arms are down at my side- just the fingers stick out. I add optional seperate cuff with a velcro tab.
Sewing the body - First, attach the arm pieces to the body piece. Then, fold it at the shoulders and sew the side seam and sleeve seam which become a single seam. If you haven't already cut it to length, cut it to length.
For the hood, find a jacket with a hood you like and study it. Sorry, but you kind of have to see it to do it.

Optional stuff - I add a tube on the inside for an elastic drawsting at the waist. I have velcro strap/tabs to close off the wirst, although I never use them because the sleeves are long enough to cover the meat of the hand. I like a close fitting hood/neck, but I add a zipper for venting. I have a drawstring at the hood opening, but never use it becasue the opening is close fitting. I have put armpit zippers in, but it's probably more bother than it's worth. A single breast pocket with a velcro seal across the front is nice to have for gloves etc.

I don't wear shell garments over PFDs, but the anorak would have more than enough room for one.

 

[tketcham]

I'm curious as to what people consider a cagoule vs a pull-over? I always thought of a cagoule as being a pull-over that reached at least to your knees. Some of the designs I'm seeing here are what I would call a pull-over, not a cagoule.

 

[snapper]

I'm in the camp with @tketcham in that a cagoule is a garment that reaches to knee length. I have a cagoule I purchased years ago from Campmor that is essentially a rain jacket. One of the benefits of this garment is it was made so you could snap the lower section up into a just below the hip jacket; which is a lot easier to wear when paddling or hiking (at least for me). I would drop it down into its full length whenever caught in heavy rain while in the campsite and I was moving about while doing chores.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper

PS - I still have that cagoule and wear it from time to time. It stuffs into its own kangaroo pocket so I can also use it as a pillow!

 

[lowangle al]

Nice, Thanks for mentioning the PFD. Definitely an over/under design decision. I am a fan of the Astral as well. A buddy of mine let me borrow that same PFD for a trip once, in the rescue version.

I don't usually wear anything over my PFD but it's good to have the option to be able to put on an outer layer without having to take it off. I like the Astral also. I keep my phone in the secure zippered pocket and I'm less likely to wear anything over it to keep the easy access to it.

What material is the one in your photo made from?

I'm curious as to what people consider a cagoule vs a pull-over? I always thought of a cagoule as being a pull-over that reached at least to your knees. Some of the designs I'm seeing here are what I would call a pull-over, not a cagoule.

I always thought it was knee length raincoat, but I think the definition is more broad then that, including an anorak.