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Canoe cart advice please!

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I have the S-S and like the larger tires, but the "Never-Go-Flat" removable 10" wheels and -$50 on the Malone has merit.

If you are only doing a 1/4 mile on a road I'd go cheap.
 
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I have the Canadian Boat Walker and have used it quite a bit. The SS is very much like what I have and believe or not the kickstand helps plus it's taller which I find easier on the back while using it. If you're only going a short distance with your canoe than I think either will work out but if in the future it will be longer portages then I'd go with the SS. I have had my cart since 1999 and it's still going strong.

dougd
 
My past experience says go with the SS... the rounded tops on the malone style charts don't, IMHO, provide enough surface area to grip the bottom of the canoe. They are more prone to shifting. Even hitting a small stone in the path with cause a load shift with a wider canoe. They are meant for a much narrower sea kayak hull that will fit down into the channel better. The kick stand on the SS is better for loading a canoe as well.

Jason
 
For what it's worth. I've got one of the cheaper ones with the plastic wheels. It does ok, and how you strap your canoe on makes all the difference. It's a little rough on dirt and gravel and cutting through a thick grass field is a whole other challenge. It is also little rough on the back because how low it sets. I like drift fishing local rivers, so I'm always looking for a way back to my truck. I had about a 45 minute walk back on this trail, but the 5 hours of fishing was worth it.
 

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The problem with models such the Malone type with a single straight through axle is if you have rough terrain with roots and rocks, the axle does not have the clearance and will get hung up on rocks and roots. I do have one of those. But on smooth flat roads and trails with no humps they are ok. I have used a Canadian Walker type (with separated independently mounted wheels) for many years. Very heavy duty, as it handles heavy guide boats or voyageur canoes quite well even on rough trails.
 
My past experience says go with the SS... the rounded tops on the malone style charts don't, IMHO, provide enough surface area to grip the bottom of the canoe. They are more prone to shifting.

I've found shifting to be a problem on rough Algonquin roads... when one wheel hits a rock or a hole, that side of the cart gets knocked back which shifts the cart out of line underneath the canoe. The SS seems like it might be more secure and maybe could be tied down tightly to minimize shifting with a wider and longer support base for a canoe.

Haven't tried them, so not sure esp since the dimensions aren't given or I didn't look... if the road you're carting is smooth, either might work OK. Still, over the long term and in other places the SS's larger base underneath looks like it'd be more suited to canoes.
 
The problem with models such the Malone type with a single straight through axle is if you have rough terrain with roots and rocks, the axle does not have the clearance and will get hung up on rocks and roots. I do have one of those. But on smooth flat roads and trails with no humps they are ok. I have used a Canadian Walker type (with separated independently mounted wheels) for many years. Very heavy duty, as it handles heavy guide boats or voyageur canoes quite well even on rough trails.

As you can see in this photo, the Malone's axle isn't straight, which gives it some clearance.
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I have something almost identical to the Malone, but with two straps. The cotter pins holding the wheels on are a weak point, but easily replaced with a clinched nail. When the going gets rough, I find that pushing it is far more effective than pulling it.
 
As you can see in this photo, the Malone's axle isn't straight, which gives it some clearance.
oh, the one I have that looks very similar does have a through axle. I practically never use it. The one shown in the photo looks like a slight improvement.
 
I have something almost identical to the Malone, but with two straps. The cotter pins holding the wheels on are a weak point, but easily replaced with a clinched nail. When the going gets rough, I find that pushing it is far more effective than pulling it.

Hehe, in a pinch I found that a piece of hardwood twig jammed in the hole works too!

Jason
 
Axle-to-ground clearance hasn't been a big problem in Algonquin... the worst slowdowns happen with trees blown down across the trail and steep uphill pulling/pushing.

With blowdowns, the canoe may have to be unfastened and packs, cart and canoe lifted over and around individually, then re-packed and re-fastened to get going again. Carting a loaded canoe up a steep uphill trail is worse than porting, and to add to the energy drain, the canoe wants to roll downhill during a rest stop.

An axle hitting a rock becomes a pretty minor thing relatively speaking... you just stop and lift the wheels over the danged thing and carry on.
 
I have one of those fat tire beach carts made for sand. It works real well on rough ADK woods carrys. can't remember the brand..
 
Thank you for your comments everyone! I'm leaning towards the Seattle Sports type cart since I hope to use it often and it looks like the large diameter wheels may be best for enjoying the walk. Will let you know what I get and how it works...I'm not quite done over-thinking it yet. ;)
 
An axle hitting a rock becomes a pretty minor thing relatively speaking... you just stop and lift the wheels over the danged thing and carry on.
If you ever do the Raquette Falls carry, or the trail to Brown's Tract in the Adirondacks, you might be forced to rethink that thought. Several times over the years with a voyageur canoe (and with smaller canoes too), I can still hear the call from the bow end to "LIFT" as we approach rocks or upsticking roots in the trails. Depends on where you go, I guess. Choose your equipment appropriately.
 
YKN... yeah, they're probably different. APP cart trails run over old bulldozed roads so they're relatively smooth and wet spots have been filled with gravel. The ports OTOH often include rough rocky areas, sometimes steep uphill sections, or muddy portions with deep glop that a loaded canoe on a cart couldn't possibly get through.
 
I have one of those fat tire beach carts made for sand. It works real well on rough ADK woods carrys. can't remember the brand..

I think I have something similar, mine is a Roll-Eez, now known as Wheel-Eez.
It has very low pressure polyurethane tires that roll over extremely rough terrain better than most. But there are still spots that must be lifted over.
I used it to roll my DY Special into Cedar Lakes (over 5 miles of rough trail) and back.

Here's a link (hopefully) to a video of some of that trail

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gKmfvn4vSyDgkDVD7




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Having worked at Rutabaga Paddlesports in Madison, WI, and trying the carts on many boats, the SS cart is without a doubt the best cart design for keeping the wheels pointed in the right direction. The adjustable width padded supports running parallel to the keel line provide more surface area (friction) for keeping the cart under the boat and reducing tipping and twisting as the wheels hit roots and rocks. Bigger wheels pull better over objects, narrow tires pull easiest over hard surfaces, wide tires pull best in soft surfaces like sand and independent axles provide ground clearance. Most, if not all of the staff felt the same and we couldn't keep it in stock. Bob
 
I have a Swedish Cart
older model with inflatable tires
forgot the air pump
on a two mile carry to Allagash Lake. Now they are non inflatable tires. Probably cause of idiots like me who get flat tires
used it on Bowron Circiut too. There are ways of lashing that prevent fore and aft movement
nice to have the canoe balanced and near hip high so you are not hunched over
 
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