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BIRCHBARKS IN THE UK

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My name is Nick Dennis and am based in Norfolk in the east of the UK close to the Norfolk Broads which are colloquy known as Britain's Magical Waterland a network of flooded medieval peat diggings connected by an artery of rivers and dykes. I became facinated by wooden canoes marvelling at how they were constructed and how beautiful they were. The popularity of recreational canoing here in the UK from the late 1800's through the 1930's meant that some beautiful North American and Canadian Canoes made their way across the pond. I am often asked by American canoeing friends why there are so many beautiful and top grade canoes in the UK. The answer is simple; if you have the money to buy and pay to ship a canoe 4000 miles you might as well ship a quality canoe. I now head the UK Chapter of the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association and in 2024 I joined the Board of the WCHA and was appointed Vice President of the organisation this year.

My canoe history includes:

1950s Chestnut Playmate

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1911 Old Town Charles River AA Grade

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!930 Peterborough 16S

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An 1890's English Turks canoe

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Those in my current fleet are:

1900 Peterborough Cedar Rib

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1978 Chestnut Deer

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2016 Stewart River designed Pal

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Four years ago during one of UK Chapter gatherings we found out about a birchbark canoe which was hanging yards away from us in a boathouse doing nothing. We got it out and did some examination. I then put my best Sherlock Holmes hat on and started some investigations over the next year or so. It transpired that a well known City of London property developer was fascinated by canoes and decided he wanted a birchbark. He and an architect acquaintance travelled to the US to see Henri Vaillancourt in Greenville NH. Three canoes were ordered at that time, one stayed in the US at the property developers' home in Pennsylvania whilst the other two came to the Thames west of London. We had found one of the two.


Henri through the power of Social Media and out of the blue, engaged with me mostly about how we should repair the Boathouse canoe. I put he and the new owners of that canoe, in touch with each other. In one exchange he then let out that in fact FOUR canoes were ordered and THREE sent to England in 1987. It transpires that a friend of the property developer and architect thought “if they have one, I must have one too!” He ordered a canoe too in 1987 . To illustrate how much ££ was floating about, on the trip back from the initial canoe buying trip, the original air tickets were binned at the airport and they flew back to the UK on Concorde!

Fast forward to October 2025. I was recounting this tale at a WCHA event on the Thames and the owner of the Boathouse canoe exclaimed “I know that friend he lives over there on the island you must meet him”. So I did. He had a whole selection of canoes of all sorts just gathering dust partly because the Henley River & Rowing Museum had just closed and he had to remove craft which were on loan to them and secondly, life events meant that he had fallen out of love with both the river and canoes. He took me to a barn and we pulled the dust and bird poop encrusted birchbark out ( it had been in their unused for 15 years). It was FANTASTIC as all of Henri’s canoes are. There was no way I could afford such a canoe. The owner then floored me by saying “ Would you please do me a favour and just take the canoe away, I want to give it to you as you are clearly more enthusiastic than I am” . He asked me to put the canoe on the car and take it away there and then. So I did.

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So that's how I am the custodian of one of the most beautiful canoes ever built by a man who is one of the finest self taught builders of birchbark canoes.

The canoe was dry stored in a barn for 15 years so a drive home in torrential rain did it a power of good..

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Below are some photos but on my initial assessment what I can see is:

  • Minor woodworm to the rails
  • Some of the lashings have snapped
  • A couple of ribs at either end have moved as you can see ghosting on the planking. The ribs are however tight.
  • Tape and gum/sap resin at ends lifting in places
  • Gum/ resin over the gores is cracked?
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After a couple of weeks stusying the canoe I grabbed a "window of opportunity" and loaded the canoe and took it down to the disused mill pool at the bottom of the lane. I deliberately didn't take my pfd or a paddle otherwise I would have been too tempted too early. I need to get 15 years of dryness out of the canoe and its fabric.

I tied a painter too the thwart (not really needed as the canoe sat happily in the eddy) and put the canoe in and left it there for 15 minutes to see if there was any seepage. There was none.

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So next stage, I staddled the canoe and applied nearly 300lbs of downward pressure ( I blame the steak & ale pies at the Swan Inn!) first at the centre and then over each quarter thwart in turn and sat there for a few minutes. This sight was much to the amusement of passing dog walkers! Not a fully laden test I know but still nothing came in. I then heeled the canoe over to each side and repeated. Again nothing. So,after about 1 1/2 hours knee deep in water nothing had come through. My cedar rib canoe would always seep unladednuntil she had "taken up" so I am encouraged by these initial but not conclusive tests on the birchbark.

Whilst away in Germany the previous week where spuce is plentiful, i pulled a few roots up and examined the sap on the trees. I can get neither in eastern England so my thought is to go with 5mm rattan basket weaving lapping cane for the lashings and a smaller 3.5mm cane for some of the finer decorative work. Soaked it will be nicely piable and with the bark still on will match in quite nicely with the original.
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I arranged and had an hour long trans-atlantic telephone chat with Henri Vaillancourt who built my canoe. Coincidentally, I am also reading John McPhee's book "The Survival of the Bark Canoe" of which henri was quite dismissive and is now writing his own version from his POV.

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Lashings missing (above)

Cloth and gum coming adrift at stem (below)

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Henri and I had a good chat and covered a lot. The pertinent points being:

•The canoe is in excellent shape overall.
•The woodworm treatment is good.
•The broken lashings are mostly superfluous and can be glued down or replaced where accessible.
•The inside woodwork can be oiled with Tung oil.
•The wood and bark can be rubbed over with clear polyurethane to improve and give life back to the finish. That's what he does.
•A tin of tempered and colour-matched gum can be sent to me from New Hampshire to cover the stems and gores externally.
•The canoe should be kept out of sun and rain and stored in an unheated building if indoors.
•The canoe should be used but not abused.
He now uses square hand forged nails to fix the cappings and gunwales together rather than wooden pegs which he used initially. The former would shrink and loosen with use of the canoe causing the canoes to go out of shape. He confirmed that getting the cappings off without breaking them would be impossible. Beneath the cappings the bark skin is folded over clamped and nailed between the gunwale rails so even without complete lashings, it's not going anywhere.

A good positive conversation which will enable me to move forward with the repair with far less work than I originally anticipated. Limited materials now ordered. It's raining here so moisture both in the atmosphere and our depleted rivers in Eastern England is a good thing. I will update this thread when progress is made. Welcome along for the ride!

Cheers,

Nick
 
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How exciting. What a story. I was lucky enough to see the birchbark canoe made during the Survival of the Bark Canoe. This is way more exciting.

Welcome to the forum, btw.

Do you post on the Song of the Paddle? I’m planning to be in London in May and will be contacting you all soon.
 
There was no way I could afford such a canoe. The owner then floored me by saying “ Would you please do me a favour and just take the canoe away, I want to give it to you as you are clearly more enthusiastic than I am” . He asked me to put the canoe on the car and take it away there and then. So I did.

That's just astonishing, Nick. Good Sherlock Holmes work—beyond elementary—and a lot of, well, good fortune.

Thanks for sharing this story with all that detail and those lovely photos. I'm sure some folks will have questions. I've never been in a birchbark canoe. The pictures make it look as if the bottom is fairly round, suggesting tender initial stability. Would you say that's so, or is the bottom more of a flatter arch than how the pictures make it look.

(Note: Nick and I have been on the WCHA Board of Directors together for two years, and I've just been elected to a second three-year term.)
 
It warmed up slightly in the garage despite the northerly wind from the Arctic hitting the east of the UK so I grabbed a couple of hours in the garage to work on the canoe.

Using a block of wood and a mallet I knocked the few ribs back into place and that tightened them up. Then using a hot glue I went over the lashings and glued them down. As the glue has hardened I will go over each set of lashings and pick off the excess glue which has squidged through but initially I simply "polished" them off with some very fine sanding mats which took the frayed pieces off.

Then out with the oil to put some life and colour back into the wood. Its amazing how one coat rubbed in with a cloth rejuvinates the finish.

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After an hour the whole insides had the first coat which will be allowed to soak in before the excess is rubbed off

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I removed the mostly missing end lashing.

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I had purchased a sample of lapping cane of 3.5mm width and having soaked it for two hours I had a go. Push, twist and pull is the action. I need to learn how to finish the lashing so that it stays tight on itself and doesnt unravel.

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The profile is correct but the colour is not so I need to see if it will take a dark wood stain. I need to tidy the individual wraps up slightly. I also have some 3.5mm leather cord which, with a round profile may work better on this crossover lashing.

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With cold hands I retreated inside for a mug of tea to have a ponder.....

Cheers,

Nick
 
That's just astonishing, Nick. Good Sherlock Holmes work—beyond elementary—and a lot of, well, good fortune.

Thanks for sharing this story with all that detail and those lovely photos. I'm sure some folks will have questions. I've never been in a birchbark canoe. The pictures make it look as if the bottom is fairly round, suggesting tender initial stability. Would you say that's so, or is the bottom more of a flatter arch than how the pictures make it look.

(Note: Nick and I have been on the WCHA Board of Directors together for two years, and I've just been elected to a second three-year term.)
I will let you know about stability in due course. i will either be reporting sopping wet or with a smile on my face!

Nick
 
Over the last couple of months transatlantic communication lines between Henri and myself have been busy the principal topic of conversation being resin/gum.

Henri uses a pine resin based gum and offered to get some to me here in the UK from New Hampshire. Sadly UPS and USPS shipping rules along with UK import regulations thwarted that plan so we were looking for a Plan B or C. The gum was used where the bark had been stitched, gores cut in the sides and at the stems. In his building process Henri tapes and seals the joints both on the inside (between the bark and the sheathing) and the outside. A disadvantage of traditional gums is that during hot weather they soften and run off and when cold can go brittle. Some have moved away from traditional gum to more modern tars, caulks and sealants which are far more durable with greater longevity.

So I thought I would go down both routes. Firstly, using a syringe usually used to administer childs medicine, I applied a fine 2mm bead of highly flexible and waterproof roofing shingle adhesive along the gore cuts which were visible. This was pushed into the gap to fill and bridge it. It is a material which both stretches but also compresses. Using a flat blade fitted to my solering iron I found that I could soften the original gum, manipulate it and smooth it back into place. I tidied up the stems and then eased the traditional gum back into place over a gores and the bead which was now dry. I have only done one so far as wished to experiment with the process.

This is the flat blade on the soldering iron

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In some areas on the gores there has been a greater loss of the original gum which I will need to supplement. I found some pitch pine glue for sale on a bushcrafting site here in the UK so ordered a sample; it arrived in hard ,very dark blocks. I have also found online some pine resin which I have ordered. Henri has confirmed that it is just like what he used.
Whilst the pitch pine is already mixed and tempered and just needs to be reactivated by heat, the pine resin will need to be mixed with some fat and tempered. Henri has said that he will let me have his mixture ratio. I suspect I will end up using a bit of both. On the stems and where applied thinly, the original gum is a mid to dark brown whilst whre it is thicker on the gores it is closer to black.

Below is the pine resin which I have ordered.
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IT"S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE! : Now that the resin had arrived I had an hour long chat with Henri about how to mix the gum and what ingredients were needed along with the method. Mixed with the resin could be either vegetable shortening (Trex) or rendered pork fat (lard) Some I know have used bees wax. So I had all three but went for the lard.
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I measured out half of the resin and put in in an old pan (this is important if you wish to save your marriage). Then I slowly heated it on a warm stove constantly stirring. I had already shaved down some pitch pine resin from some blocks as I would add this to give me a darker brown colour.
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I cut the lard up into small blocks first adding 12.5g to 125g of resin. I stirred it through and then took a bit of the mixture on a spoon and dropped it into cold water. It set but was still quite brittle. So I put the sample piece back in the pan, remelted it and added another 12.5 g of fat. Mixed through and repeated the exercise. This time the gum when tempered satyed quite pliable. I then added 5g more resin powder and tried again. This time the gum set to the state that it would just take a fingernail. Working on the basis that the kitchen is 21 degrees C I was happy with that. It will harden better on the canoe outside. If its still too soft or too hard I will simply add more resin or more lard.

So I ended up using 130g of resin, 25g of pork fat lard and a bit of ground pitch pine gum to colour. I will make another batch of a lighter shade as Henri used some on the bark to fill minor imperfections and these areas are far lighter in colour than the gores and stem areas. When the weather warms up I can go and remelt what I have made, apply and smoothe it. If it's too cold Henri says that it will set too quickly and you end up doing only an inch or so at a time. Cold and temperatures are all relative; what's cold in the UK may be a barmy temperature in Greenville New Hampshire!

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I can confirm that no bears were harmed in this lastest escapade!

The big golden thing in the sky arrived in the UK in early March so that gave an opportunity to get on with the birchbark as the temperature reached a barmy 17 C ( 62F in old money) which would make it easier to apply the gum which I had made up previously. I was going to hit the gores and the stems today.

Firstly I dropped the canoe down from the rafters and got all the gear ready on a table outside just in case of a flare up! I used Angelikas best non stick pan , a wooden spoon and heated it up on a camping stove.

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Hot gum burns flesh really quickly when it splatters on you so beware; it hurts! Henri had suggested spitting on my thumb and rubbing the gum into the gores; I opted not to burn myself further so used a leather iron. I heated this up and then took the power off and let it cool slightly before applying it to the new and old gum which melted nicely into each other and with some pressure, a smooth finish was achieved.
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Here are the smoothed and finished gores

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So after a couple of hours the gores and stems were done. I then went over and melted and spread some of the lighter bark patches; I will add some more light coloured gum to those and the areas over the next day or so as the temperature is predicted to stay at similar levels.

I finally got around to finishing the lashings at the bow wherethe gunwales meet. I umm’d and ahh’d, ahh’d and umm’d, put the cord away and used some split weaving material which I had. I am pleased with the result after I stained it to match the original.
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Just a couple more bits of gum to apply on the bark skin and then a final wipe over with some Danish oil and I think we are ready to go paddling just as the rivers are dropping and the temperature rises.


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Time to go paddling!

Nick
 
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