Fiberglass stove hole in canvas tent

[TheIndian]

I just cut my 4" fiberglass stove hole to accommodate a 5" stove pipe. It is now the right size but I now am trying to come up with ways to alleviate the fraying. I've read that some have used a high temp gasket material. I might also get some additional fiberglass fabric now and sew it over the frayed edge....I would rather sew than use a form-a-gasket material but would love your advice, suggestions. Thx!

Chris
...trying to upload a picture...


Ahhh...got the picture up.
As you can see, there is still a stitch running outside all the fraying that I avoided with the scissors. I would still like to neaten it all up though

 

[bcelect]

Here, try this link.Good luck.

 

[Canotrouge]

Hight temperatur silicon would be my first idea, but I guess one could by some kevlar tape, and fold it around the frayed edge and sew it there!!

 

[TheIndian]

Hey bcelect...thanks. Actually read that earlier...that's where I got the form-a-gasket idea. Thanks...will read again in more detail.

Canotrouge...kevlar tape new to me. Will consider it. Was thinking about doing the same thing with a new layer of fiberglass fabric...maybe cut up a welding blanket or something.

What I'd like to find now is some fiberglass thread. Doesn't seem easy to find online. Will keep looking, maybe I missing something. Wouldn't be the first time haha

 

[Canotrouge]

When I got my snow trekker, they send me a little bit of heat resistant thread!! Maybe look for that!! I'm sure you could call them and they would help!!

 

[Guest]

Some primitive tent makers offer sized pipe holes with a reinforced rind around the hole. Check -Track of the wolf-Tentsmiths ect. I cheeper way to make a smoke hole is a piece of aluminum roof flashing with a pipe hole and sewing in holes punched in it.
Turtle

 

[Robin]

I downsized my stove pipe from 5" to 4" which left a space around the stove pipe in my fiberglass jack, so I cut up an old cookie pan and made two pieces with 4" holes and bolted them to both sides jack .
I know it doesn't answer the OP's original question but it would work and that metal sleeve really holds the pipe securely.

 

[forest runes]

Along the same line , I have a campfire / baker tent any suggestions on where to put the stovepipe hole ? the quandary is the pitch of the top seems sure to leak, in the door / awning the flap would work in one situation but not the other & the sidewalls would limit floorspace. And would just a metal jack be sufficient or do you need the fiberglass cloth ?

 

[scoutergriz]

Get some 3M "Firestop" silicone. I've used it for quite a while with no problem. Just make sure you get the 1000F stuff though. It's a lot easier to use BEFORE you sew the jack in though. What I do is lay the glass flat on top of wax paper, Pump a good amount (you can always scrape extra off) on the glass and spread it with a putty knife or plastic body fill spreader. work it in until it starts to come through the cloth, and flip it over. do the same on the other side. let it dry for about a day, peel it off the waxed paper, and trim with scissors. Now you can sew it in just like regular cloth and cut your pipe hole (no need to bind the hole- the silicone does that). A 12x12 jack should take 1/2-3/4 tube. To stop water from coming in, you can add an "eyebrow" by putting a heavy bead on the outside an inch or so above the pipe cutout to direct the rain away.

 

[TheIndian]

When I got my snow trekker, they send me a little bit of heat resistant thread!! Maybe look for that!! I'm sure you could call them and they would help!!

Thanks Canotrouge...I asked them but they don't sell it that way but thanks. I also called Panther Primitive who actually makes the tent...they said to use a heavy duty cotton thread with poly core...I don't think I'd sleep well at night knowing that cotton is close to my stove pipe.
Trouble is, fiberglass thread is hard to come by.

Ok Turtle...will look them up. Thx.

 

[Canotrouge]

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miv...-sewing-thread
http://www.cansewspecialops.com/fr_threads.aspx

 

[coldfeet]

..I don't think I'd sleep well at night knowing that cotton is close to my stove pipe.

. Thx.

So then go to sleep during the day! or have another drink! haha

I guess it's time we go back to Brooklyn and check it out!

 

[TheIndian]

Haha I'll go with option no. 2!

 

[Guest]

My fabric smoke hole insert got greatly enlarged in a wind storm years ago. it's now at least 1/2 in away from the pipe. Surprisingly, it doesn't seem to cause the tent to be any colder-so I leave it that way. One related tip- if you make a hinged fabric flap to cover the hole when its not needed, make the hinge on the bottom and tie it shut on top. This is so gravity won't cause it to fall on the hot pipe if it comes loose.
Turtle

 

[TheIndian]

Thanks Turtle. Did your hole insert catch fire? And when you say "fabric", was it fiberglass?
That brings to mind a questions that I have. Is it ok for the stove hole insert to be in direct contact with the stove pipe? My stove pipe is 5in. and I am thinking of removing the above pictured fiberglass insert entirely (cutting the threads and removing)...then reinstalling a new fiberglass one with a 6inch diameter. I too then will have 1/2in. space between insert and pipe. I feel better about having some space but still learning about the dos and dont's of canvas hot tenting.
I am hoping I can get a new one from Panther asap and install myself. Am heading North in two weeks and want to use the tent.
Thx all!
Chris
p.s. Turtle...yes, the preinstalled fabric flap is hinged on the bottom.

 

[Canotrouge]

My stove pipe is often in contact with the "fabric" ring w/o any issue!

 

[Guest]

No, the insert didn't catch fire, the constant flapping just wore it big from rubbing on the stovepipe. Yes the insert can touch the pipe-no problem. A friends top hinged stovehole cover flap did come undone and fall down onto the pipe and start smoldering. In 35+ years of primitive winter camping, I have learned a lot.
Turtle

 

[scoutergriz]

MY pipe actually goes through an X shaped cut in the fabric, so there are 4 flaps that are always in contact!
I used to have 2 different stoves, one with a 3" pipe, and one with a 5" pipe, so the stove jack was cut to fit either.

 

[Canotrouge]

MY pipe actually goes through an X shaped cut in the fabric, so there are 4 flaps that are always in contact!
I used to have 2 different stoves, one with a 3" pipe, and one with a 5" pipe, so the stove jack was cut to fit either.

That is a great idea!

 

[TheIndian]

No Title

I got up to the Catskills last weekend to do some hiking and spent some time on a small piece of property that we own just NW of the mountains. Saturday was gorgeous, warm and sunny but the weather changed pretty abruptly Saturday night and I found myself in the middle of a blizzard for the rest of the weekend haha. It was a good chance to figure out what worked and what didn't while spending the next day and a half snow bound in the tent.

The winds were crazy and that had a huge effect on the stove pipe. I had it propped up between two tarp poles but the wind certainly threw it around a bit. The stove wasn't exactly level either. The biggest issue was the spark arrestor. Not having it screwed to the top of the stove pipe, the wind would blow it off every hour or so. When it came off, the wind would blow down the pipe and a puff of smoke would appear in the tent...not good haha. From now on, I'll have to screw the pieces together. Without the wind, things would have been much different but one should always expect the worst.

Since the stove pipe swayed a bit in the wind, this also made the stove jack a little bigger.

I also found that the smaller the pieces of wood, the better the stove would produce heat.

A few pics...