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What Crooked Knife?

That is a nice collection Jim. Thank you for sharing.
One thing I noticed with your knives as well as mine, the blades are not flush with the bottom of the handle. I read some place that would be important.
Your knives look well used. What is your opinion on blade position vs. handle? Does it matter you think?
 
Yes it matters. I didn't know squat at the time except for brief descriptions in a couple of books. The new blade I made in the thread I linked above addresses one of the issues and it will be mounted on the bottom of the wood, not the middle of the handle. When the blade comes straight out of the handle you have to cant your wrist when in use and that can be painful and tiring.
Jim
 
I got one from the Bark Canoe Store and I found it to be pretty worthless. The blade seems to be stainless steel (like a cheap kitchen knife)and very hard to sharpen. I hate to sharpen regular knives made of this steel and it is much harder to sharpen a crooked knife.

Dagger let us know how it goes, I don't think mine will ever be functional. They are nice people at the Bark Canoe Store though and I too enjoy my ash paddle I got from them.
 
Yup. Mediocre steel at best that comes with a terrible edge. I have just about...scratch that...I have given up on trying to make it into something it just isn't. The folks at the store told me it wasn't very good quality, so they weren't hiding anything. I just didn't understand at the time, that the carving purpose of these knifes pretty much excludes any sub-par quality in steel and build. If they are well made and the steel is good, they work great. If they are low quality in steel or build, they are just crap. Even a economic pocked knife with a mild steel is still good for pealing an apple or cutting a piece of rope. Not so with crooked knifes. I'll probably just chuck it.
 
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Don't know if you're still interested in a crooked knife but a friend of mine up in Maine is a blacksmith and he makes them. Most of his stuff is made for living history folks and they're in a style from the 17th & 18th centuries but they definitely work well. I have a couple of his crooked knives and really like them. Feel free to PM me if you want his e-mail address.

Also, you mentioned the uncomfortable feel in your wrist from using the knife. For what it's worth, there's nothing that says you can't reverse your grip. I do that much of the time as I find it more comfortable and puts less strain on my joints. I can still control the knife as well so you might want to try it. The worst that can happen is you find out you like that grip even less!

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
Thank you Snapper. I'll PM you for the contact info.

On the reverse grip, in order to run the knife edge perpendicular to the work piece, and still straight toward me, and if edge and knife handle are axial, my wrist has to be angled. Or I would have to contort my arm and elbow to sort of make up for it. I don't think that reversing my grip makes any difference. Unless I misunderstand what you mean by that. I take it it means I am either looking at the top of my hand or the palm of my hand when using the knife.
If so, the angle just switches from a negative degree (from straight wrist) to a positive degree right?
 
Dagger - Two quick things....I e-mailed Kenny to let him know you might be contacting him so he should be able to help you out if you decide to go that route. The second is in regard to grip; you're correct in that I was saying you will be looking at the top of your hand if you turn your grip around. Depending on the handle, that still may not be enough for a comfortable grip. I know in speaking with Kenny that many of the historically made crooked knives have what he calls a "knuckle buster" feel to them. The more modern knife makers have altered the grip a bit so it's not as tiring on your joint/hand (hopefully this make sense when you read it). Over the years I've altered my grip a number of times while working on a project. At this point it may be incorrect but it seems more natural to me this way. Hope that helps and doesn't muddy up the situation even more.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
My crooked knife journey continues. Until I moved to Maine the only crooked knives I had seen were in museums and books and descriptions in books. Shortly after we moved here I wandered into an antique store and there on the shelf he had three knives. Still way beyond my meager budget he was kind and let me hold and even measure them. They were not as I had read about in books or had seen in museums.
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Those sent me deep into image searches on line and the conclusion is there is no standard at all.
Then a spur of the moment decision (I actually had to turn around) I decided to stop in a big junk shop/barn and there in the glass cabinet was a crooked knife for less than a dinner out with my wife so it came home with me. The blade is held in with pewter or lead (I haven’t tested it yet) jacket and it really gives the tool some heft. The handle is simple not adorned like the museum pieces but I’m glad to have it. It was made from a file as you can see some of the file teeth still on the top.
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I’ll bring it to the WCHA assembly if anyone going wants to see it.
Jim
 
I briefly had this desire to make one. I got as far as collecting some Osage Orange crooks (crooked branch segments), and an old straight razor of my Grandad's thinking I could make one. I got distracted with other things, like building & restoring more canoes, but maybe one day I'll continue the effort!
 
I've been wanting to make one of these for a decade now, and have never gotten around to it.

There used to be a fascinating free PDF on mocotaugans available online from these guys - it was their book in its entirety - but I can't find it this evening. It's probably on there somewhere.
 
Missed this thread (before my time) but, having used a hoof knife most of my life, I can definitely see where it would be useful for carving.

Are they like hoof knives that they are sharpened on the top edge only & the bottom remains flat to the work?
 
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