Thanks Glenn ...
Does either method provide a strength difference in the stem area, or any other performance difference for the canoe, or an ease of repair difference for the bow/stern areas?
There in lies the rub .... the strength comes from the composite you form with the fiberglass/epoxy and the strip core. So the glue and wood core are not the main players in the strength game ... you may be able to argue in specific circumstances, that there is an small advantage to one or the other, but generally I believe the correct response is that both provide the strength required to do the job.
As far repairs go, broke is broke and each one is a little different .... I don't believe either one is more susceptible in general use.
One small potential for performance gain, with stemless, is that I believe you can achieve a finer entry angle, so that maybe it cuts the water a little cleaner ....
Is there a significant difference in the fiberglassing of the outside or inside stem areas as between the two methods? And how usually does one glass the inside stem area? Try to fold one big sheet in there? Or put one narrow strip of glass or glass tape right in the nose, joined to sheets coming from the two sides? Or what?
This is only my take/opinion, but there is very little difference, once the hull has been shaped and prepared.
On the outside, there are several ways to finish the ends, but they use the same or similar methods. The glass extending from the body over the ends will not bend to make the tight turns for overlap, typically, narrower strips (3" 4") are cut on a bias and are applied either before or after the main sheet is applied to the hull. The bias cut conforms quite easily to the shape round at the nose and completes the waterproof shell to that area.
There is no functional difference in glass application between a stemless or stemmed build.
The inside application is again almost identical, the FG sheet will be the exact same size, with the only difference being that you cut the sheet at the bilge area so that it tucks neatly to the stem(in a stemmed build) and obviously this isn't required in stemless ... further in the stem blends into the strips.
My understanding is that on the inside, you do the fitting to "near" the end and call it a day. Add bias strips or fillets in this region really doesn't add much additional strength, but can add weight and add to the finishing work.
All of this assumes a normal/routine build strategy, there are exceptions to these general statements ... you can add an outter stem to a stemless build, add a brass ban, add skid plates ....there are lots of other build methods, but for the middle ground I believe this a reasonable accurate portrayal.
Brian