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Thoughts about this paddle design?

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My first concern would be strength. It appears in the picture that the wood grain bisects the bottom two notches (you called them concavities on your blog). Love the sweater. Dave
 
Grip is not going to be predictable especially if you do palm rolls. And I agree about the grain.. Just how are you going to hold this anyway?

Not keen on the blade either. You took a lot of the turning ability out of it with that tucked waist.

I guess the test is for you to take it and a standard paddle and get out on the water. It makes great wall art anyway!
 
Very interesting idea with the grip, kind of like having an adjustable length paddle. I'm curious to see how it works out in real life.

Alan
 
Ah notches! I knew there was a better word for it! Sorry for my English.
I'm a bit concerned too about the crossing grains but I don't think it will be a problem unless the paddle is bent a lot for some reason. There is still a lot of material, especially at the bottom notch where it's thicker.

yellowcanoe: I'm holding it like in the photo. The notches are actually much more comfortable than a northwoods grip. The top grip though is not as comfortable as I had hoped. Palm rolling, at least in air is no problem at all. I'll see when I do it for real in the canoe.
 
Hmmmm, well, I got over my animal tail paddle phase quite a while ago, and a beaver/ottertail paddle hasn't touched my hands in many a year. However, you have something completely new. Now please don't take offence, I'm just going with a stream of consciousness writing style here. If I may be so bold, I would call your paddle a "Lizard Tail" paddle. It's kind of scarey looking, like the "Flying V" of the guitar world. I think it would look super with some metallic paint and maybe a skull or two painted on it. In fact, my son, who is rock and roller, would love a paddle like that.:D

Do you have open water over there now? How long before you can try it out? How much does it weigh? I like that you can go from a sixty inch paddle to a 54 inch in one quick downshift of the grip hand. You must give us a full report once you try it!
 
Now that's innovative.
A few thoughts:
1. The blade presents relatively little resistance until it's fully submerged, which would be easier on the arms and shoulders.
2. The shaft seems to be the same thickness as the grip(s), i.e., opposite the usual indexing. That might be uncomfortable to use.
 
Phil, the shaft is thicker than the grip. It's 32mm thick which is what I usually use. The width of the shaft varies all the way along but at the narrowest part it's about 28mm.
 
The width matters less than the relative dimensions of the two axes. (You probable know this ...) For an indexed shaft, the dimension parallel to the blade should be less than the dimension at 90 degrees. How is your paddle's shaft shaped?
 
Sorry my English isn't the best. By indexed shaft you mean an oval shaft?
It's shaped just like you say in the middle of the shaft. It's 28 mm wide parallel to the blade and 32 mm thick 90 degrees to the blade.
However the width of the shaft is a curve going from wide at the throat to narrow in the middle and wide at the grip so by the throat the shaft is pretty much round, and just above it it's slightly oval.
 
Can you share your reasons for designing the blade the way you did? Was it for looks or are is there something you hope it will do differently than a more traditional blade design?

No need to apologize for your english, it's easier to read than many people who have lived here their whole lives.

Alan
 
Jonas said: Do you like the form or is it just too much?

I'm sorry but if you and I where to do a 150 mile trip across Northern Ontario and you showed up with this paddle, I would hand you my $30 beavertail and feel a whole lot more comfortable. sorry, IMO, it's just too much.
 
Nice woodworking and experiment, but I think it would be a terrible handling paddle because it's probably quite blade heavy.

The intermediate grips would be useless to me.

The center of water pressure on a paddle blade is usually at the geometric center of the blade. A paddle needs meat there. You have the least meat there. The part of the blade above the indentation will be fairly useless. As a result, the blade will be inefficient for forward propulsion.
 
Well Jonas, That sure is an interesting idea and really quite a departure from what we usually see in a paddle design. I agree with Yellow Canoe the real test will come when you paddle with it and have a chance to compare with a more traditional design. But even untried, I give you full marks for trying to "think outside the box" and trying to come up with something new.

Given the nature of experiments, it's almost certain that some aspects can be improved but there probably are elements of your design that may prove to be just the thing on some future project. You never can tell. I've got a whole box full of various scraped projects that I tried to make work, only to find what I thought was a good idea turned out to be a waste of materials. For now. One day I may be bending over that box, rooting around for parts for something and discover if I take this part and put it on there.....I can make it work!

I like to imagine that first caveman: the whole tribe is gathered outside the cave, blinking in the sunshine and scratching fleas. He's off to one side with a flint nodule between his knees and whacking it with a rock. Somebody hollers "Hey Og, leave that thing alone, those splinters that come off are sharp and somebody will stand on them and get cut!" But Og is looking at one of those sharp splinters and thinking...."If I wrapped some hide scraps around it so I don't get cut then maybe.......
And the next thing you know we've got the light bulb! Keep the ideas coming!

Best Wishes, Rob
 
Nice woodworking and experiment, but I think it would be a terrible handling paddle because it's probably quite blade heavy.

The intermediate grips would be useless to me.

The center of water pressure on a paddle blade is usually at the geometric center of the blade. A paddle needs meat there. You have the least meat there. The part of the blade above the indentation will be fairly useless. As a result, the blade will be inefficient for forward propulsion.

It's true that the center of effort is typically at the geometric center, e.g., sails. However, there's the lever effect to take into consideration. A long paddle's center is farther away from the paddler's grip hand, while a shorter blade's center will be closer. Assuming the same total blade area, this means that a longer paddle will require more effort for the same power output. So moving the center of effort closer to the grip hand should make it easier to apply the same force as a paddle with the same blade area whose center of effort is farther away. This is a better explanation than my first point above.
 
Alan: Thanks, It was mainly for looks. And of course it's a fun experiment.
Robin: I would never bring this paddle on a longer trip. At least not without a spare.
Glenn: It's not really blade heavy at all. The grip weights enough to make up for the blade. And the blade is quite thin.
"The intermediate grips would be useless to me." Can you explain? Ever tried with a northwoods grip?
I never thought about it but I can see why the middle of the blade gives the most effect. But I'm with Glenn here. The further out on the blade you get the more water will be pushed in the wrong direction (up or down) if you make long strokes. This is the main reason I like beaver tails so much. And I think why sugar island blades are so popular. The top part of the blade moves mainly when you pull the paddle backwards, while the top moves a great distance all through the stroke. Now of course, this does not excuse my blade design. I have to admit it's mostly aesthetic.
oldie: I'm thinking the same as you here. I tried a lot of different things on this paddle and for future projects I can just pick the parts that works.
 
And I think why sugar island blades are so popular.
People enjoy paddles for a variety of reasons; each to their own, if you are out paddling and having a good time, the primary goal is achieved. However, the reason Sugar Island style paddles are popular is because they are the most efficient style out there. Look at what the marathon racers, sprinters and professional racers paddle with...no animal tails there. Some people enjoy the tradition and aesthetics of traditional paddles, which is great, but when I have to crank out some big miles, they are not the ones I reach for.
 
Jonas your paddle would not work for the Northwoods stroke. The grip is horizontal with your grip wrist draped over it. It looks painful to drape your wrist over the twisted grip

There is a reason that variable grips...notched or no...are flat. also a reason that shafts are not wasp waisted. I see disaster ahead.
 
Ah.....Yellow Canoe, God Bless you! "I see disaster ahead" that's pretty much the definition of life isn't it?

Rob
 
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