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Rack Spread

Got to haul a boat the other day with the new rig. Used a loop around the hood latch metal loop that catches in the hook. Used a soft nylon rope and it works good. I think that I need beefier nylon web though.
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The whole friggin’ front is plastic. Headlights and everything else is mounted in a plastic frame. Bumper is just a big molded shell. How does that protect anything?
 
The whole friggin’ front is plastic. Headlights and everything else is mounted in a plastic frame. Bumper is just a big molded shell. How does that protect anything?

Based on my recent experience those "bumpers" DO "absorb" impacts.

I was rear ended by an Acura a few weeks ago, on my Tacoma the bumper moved up about 1/4" and has a tiny little "ding", the Acura on the other hand was completely smashed in (about a foot), rad was gushing fluid and the guy kept crying "my car, my car!!!!!!" (along with a minor torrent of expletives).

As far as "beefier" web loops.....they look fine to me, I use the same/similar size webbing, I replaced them a few years ago because of UV degradation, mostly because I'm too lazy to "hide" the loops when not in use.

I don't like having one of the loops in the middle, you should have them both going to the side.
 
Used a soft nylon rope and it works good. I think that I need beefier nylon web though.

Nylon rope (or nylon webbing) has a tendency to stretch under tension when wet, like driving in the rain with a boat tied to the roof racks. Add a little wind and. . . . .

Had a nylon belly line (nope, won’t use nylon ever again) stretch out enough in the rain that canoe hopped over a short gunwale stop.
 
Interesting, I have an F250 I'll be putting a single yakima bar on, and an upright in the back of the bed to put my 17' canoe on
 
I just went through the whole "i need to buy a roof rack" pain and ultimately decided I wouldn't do that.

I bought a swiveling T-post for the trailer hitch, and one of the really thick (3") pool noodles to lay a few inches back from my windshield for it to sit on. Provides about 11' or so of support (15' Chum sticks out 1' in back, about 3' in front). I do my front end with the fender dealies as someone illustrated earlier, and once everything is in place, I use some ratchet straps between the ends of the T post and the cargo net hooks in my trunk (two pieces of mule tape, properly knotted, for anchors just outside the trunk seam) for additional stability. I've driven at highway speeds with and without; with is better. A couple bungie cords hold the end of the canoe to the T post, and a cargo strap behind the rear door pillars goes over the middle. Wish I'd taken pictures when I was out yesterday. Way easier to show that way.

I transported my canoe from Western NY to MD recently with no issues at all... about 300 miles.

I used a similar rig when i lived in LA, but the T post was fixed, not swivelly, and bolted to a plate welded to the back bumper (no 'trailer hitch' wiggle room), and didn't move at all. I just really like how easy the swivel T makes it to load.
 
Kind of like this? I need to tweek it a little but it does work. I am not in love with the T-post but I have it and it does work so that is what I am using until I can make a rear rack for the box.
 

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Every time I see the title of this post "RACK SPREAD" I think to myself, "I knew a girl back in college that was like that." By this stage in life I would bet she has "RACK SAG".
 
Oh dear. I guess that living in Alaska could be used as an excuse for that kind of comment but, really?

Ever thought of what she might say about you now? I know that I've certainly been impacted by gravity in the last thirty years!
 
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