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Rack Spread

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I just installed roof racks on my SUV. There's 39-1/2" between the load bars. Is there a rule of thumb for supporting a canoe of a given length? There is absolutely nothing to secure an end line to either front or back. I don't use end lines on my trailer, but the spread is farther and I generally use both a web strap and an EPDM rubber bungee at each tie down location. I'd like to skip the end lines with the roof rack, but the spread doesn't make me feel good about that idea.
 
If the load bar spread results in more than 3' overhang of the front bar, i will use some sort of front tie down .... that will create a lot of stress on the canoe front. At the back I don't worry quite as much, so 4' is ok back there .... so I guess take the canoe length minus the bar spread length divide by 2 and if it is more than ~3' ...maybe consider some type of tie down

Sorry ...math seems to pop up everywhere

Brian
 
I have the loops and on my Tacoma there is a hole in the frame in the rear wheel wells that are perfect for a carabiner, ropes from there to a center thwart or anything that will provide some tension against the front ropes. This setup eliminates side to side movement as well as front/back movement. No belly straps needed and the spacing of racks bars is essentially irrelevant, all they do is hold the boat off the roof.
 
unfortunately I can only get a 28" spread on my racks (f***ing car designers!) so my front and rear tiedowns are doubly important! I installed a pair like sweeper said, but with longer bolts and fender washers to spread the pressure out more, and did the same on the back by removing the bumpstops for my tailgate (CUV) and doing the same. there is enough angle from the straps that the hooks are held away from the paint. Worked well for about 5 years!
 
You can also just use a loop of rope or webbing with a large knot tied into the end--close the knot in your hood and you have a loop sticking out. You can buy these at some hardware stores. Attached are some I picked up. This is an option functionally similar to Sweeper's, but removable.
 

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I use 1" nylon strap......I know Great Miami Outfitters sells it by the foot......you may be able to find some at the hardware store.......I've also seen items similar to what Mason mentioned above, but instead of a knot, there is a length of PVC with the loop off of it.......I get the bulk strap and cut it to the size I want to minimize the rubbing of the paint on my hood, after I cut it, I fold it in half and using a hole punch, punch a hole to match the diameter of the bolt I'm putting it on and then take a lighter and melt the ends of the strap and the inside of the hole I punched...or you could mount a grommet.....I've never used a grommet and have never had one tear and I do check them periodically.....I currently have a pair on my F-150 and my wife's Subaru....

Mike
 
My Honda Element suffers a similar lack of spread, despite having plenty of roof line...
I have about 27", I typically do not tie down my ends, even though some of my boats are 18 ft long.. Fingers crossed, haven't lost one yet since 2004 (two different Elements, same Thule Tracker II mounts}.
However, I do occasional use tie downs for the front on extremely windy trips. Like sweeper, I added a couple under the hood 1" nylon straps.

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What do you use, webbing? I think I have some grommets somewhere. God, I miss a good old fashioned metal bumper. And rain gutters weren't bad either.

I use 1 inch webbing, nothing special but NOT the cheapest dollar store stuff that can break under pressure. I've never used grommets, just burn a hole big enough for the bolt and tighten the nut (those nuts usually have a flange). The current loops I have were installed 10 years ago and have done more than 10,000km of canoe carrying. I don't remember for sure but I might have doubled up the ends so the bolt goes through 4 layers of webbing (that could have been on my previous vehicle).
 
We have (had) under hood webbing tie down loops on a couple compact cars that most often carried a single boat. Having the front tie downs angled out /\ really helps prevent any sideways movement in wind or passing big rigs zooming past in the hammer lane, and actually keeps the driver’s sightline cleaner, with the ropes going off to the sides and not down in front to the bumper/tow rings

It gets to be 4-lines more occluded with dual tie down ropes in front of the windshield with two canoes racked. With four canoes on the big van eight lines presented an impossible forest of rope to look through.

I often have more than one canoe on the roof racks, and use a single line as a bow tie down to the bumper or tow ring. Not as good, unless the stern tie down is pulling in opposition the front tie along isn’t as effective in crosswinds and isn’t doing squat to hold the boat in place during a hard stop.

That single line serves mostly to instantly indicate “Oh crap, pull over quick, something ain’t right or tight on the roof racks”.

We busted a gunwale stop in high prairie winds with three canoes on the van, saw that line scoot sideways and pulled the heck over. Had a nylon belly line (nope, won’t use nylon ever again) stretch out enough in the rain that canoe hopped over a short gunwale stop. And etc disasters avoided with that visual aid.

I can’t see the bow of most canoes through the windshield of the Extracab truck unless I crawl under the glass to peer up, which is uncomfortable while driving. I couldn’t see two of the four boats on the van unless I stood on the hood.

I think I would know if a boat came off, but I have seen enough “LOST BOAT: My Stomperdomper XL came off my racks somewhere on Rte 123 between East Jesus and Nowheresville WVA” posted on whitewater boards and all I can think is “Hmmm, no bow line indicator?”.
 
I like a lot of rack spread. It's just simple physics, rack stops have more leverage on the boat. In addition to straps and bow lines, I secure the front thwart to the front bar. this prevents fore and aft movement. I have always been able to load my canoes so the thwart is even with the bar.
 
We have ropes with truckers hitches in them and metal hooks on one end to grab the frame rails under the front of the vehicles. We tie those off to the carry thwart of the canoe. The picture sort of shows that but I dont usually have that mess between the two ropes. Dont know what that was all about.

To be honest, the reason it all works is the ratchet straps. It makes it possible to get them tight enough, so the boat wont move. You have to have a little finesse of course but they have worked excellent on w/c, strippers, and kevlar. And we go long distance at high speed
 

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I still miss the tie downs on my 1984 Hi-lux Toyota long bed, in large part because that truck had external hooks as part of the bed rail, and I could tie down belly lines independent of the roof rack crossbars.

Even with modern Thule/Yakima racks I want some of the tie downs attached to the vehicle itself, not just to the crossbars. I’m pretty sure the lines to the tow rings and trailer hitch carabineers, or SS eye bolts installed in the chrome bumper, are more fail safe than the rack towers and crossbars.

Belly lines taut under the crossbars is the best I can manage with most modern vehicles; and in that guise I’d prefer that the bow and stern lines be attached to the vehicle.

See again Belt & Suspenders.
 
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