• Happy Cinco De Mayo! 🇲🇽🎸💃🪅🌶️

Poll: Gunwale gluer or screwer?

Gluer or screwer?

  • I'm a gluer

    Votes: 2 11.1%
  • I'm a screwer

    Votes: 16 88.9%

  • Total voters
    18
I have been trying to avoid wading into this debate .. but here I go. I will be assuming that gluing means using epoxy, I don't think gunnel application, on a stripper, is an appropriate use for regular wood glue.

Asking a single, unqualified question like this suggests that there is a "best" solution to gunnel application .... personally, I think the type of gunnels and the application may change with circumstance. A rental boat that gets beaten up and needs the gunnels replaced every few years would likely benefit from an easier replacement option, some one building for weight and strength may opt for an epoxied gunnel. So depending on your own circumstance, the best option may vary ... JFF made the point that he the would screw on at least the outer gunnels, so a composite copy could be made, in that case is there really any other choice? Maybe you are going for a "period" appropriate look, again, these are all reasons for selecting a certain methodology.

I am a builder, i do take my boats to the wilds, portage and hit the occasion rock ( I swear there are a few assassin rocks every trip, hiding, waiting for me to pass) so things like reliability, weight and convenience all come into how I build my craft. I am also not one to "throw my toys around", I want that boat ready to take me where I need to go ... they aren't coddled, but I see no need to drive a boat onto shore or into rocks, afterall, it is my ticket home.

When I am building, one rule I have is that all exposed wood gets sealed ... when I drill the holes for the thwarts/seat(s) etc. those holes get sealed, usually during the varnishing process, I put a finger over one side and fill the hole with varnish to seal ... then release and continue. I would suggest that this necessary step is not included in a lot of gunnel applications using screws, it is likely assumed that the screw will seal the wood (or it seems like a lot of effort), which it won't. Anyone who has backed a screw out of exposed wood after a few years knows that the entire screw is usually suffering water damage.

Going down that long gunnel and drilling dozens of holes, is definitely going to impact the strength of that strip ... and then using dozens of screws to fasten it in place is going to add a not insignificant weight. Now with a full size (3/4" x 3/4" seems to be the accepted norm) gunnel set, the holes won't reduce strength to an unacceptable level ... however, since the full strength of the gunnel set isn't achieved due to the holes, it also means that a glued set can be smaller and still give comparable strength ... with a weight saving from less wood and no screws. This may or may not be of value to the builder, as I said .... it is all about circumstance and what the builder is trying to achieve.

Glen
"Wouldn't they be more likely to spring apart if the glue fails after a time than screwed gunwales would?"

As I stated at the start, I don't think a regular wood glue is appropriate for this application, I would only use epoxy as the surfaces will likely be slightly irregular and in the case of a stripper you are making a bond between epoxy and wood, so a void filling epoxy is the best product IMO. As far as longevity goes, my first gunnels have only seen 8 years with no issues ... but I haven't had a single properly done epoxy joint fail in that time, so I do not believe that the glued on gunnel is prone to any sort of spontaneous springing apart.

"Wouldn't glued gunwales be harder to remove from the hull, if necessary, than screwed gunwales?"

There is no question that a glued set will more difficult to remove, more so if they are done properly ... of course done properly and there should be less reason to remove them as well. While I agree they would be more difficult, I suspect you aren't looking at a huge task either, several power tools could simplify the task and time it takes, again IMO.


At the end of the day:

- the screwed gunnels are 1) heavier 2) more work to prep and apply 3) easier to remove

- the glued gunnels are 1) lighter 2) less work to prep and apply 3) more work to remove

Your build, use and how you use your craft will dictate which is best for your personal use ... I don't believe there is a overall best here, there will however be an overall best for each application.


Brian
 
The most important, and obvious, part of wood gunwales is care and storage. I put ash gunwales on the Independence /FreeFIRE sometime in the mid-1990’s.

Other than when on the water or being transported on the truck, aside from a couple months where it had to live on an outside rack, that canoe has always been stored indoors, and the (screwed) wood gunwales are as sound as the day I first installed them, even with a lackadaisical every-few-years approach to re-oiling.

A friend regunwaled a cottage canoe for a friend’s camp, multi-coat sealing the wood gunwales. You might think said camp would have an outbuilding, or an overhang eve, or at least a pair of sawhorses to keep the wood gunwales off the ground.

Nope. From the dirt encrustation and rot it was left upside down in the dirt.

A little over a year’s direct ground contact began to rot the gunwales. And wood deck plates, and even some cross-member brightwork, so he gets to replace it all again. I don’t think it was entirely the screw holes to blame, and at least he can unscrew the remains of the wales and use them as templates to make new ones.

The Independence/FreeFIRE was a rotted gunwales freebie; 1991 HIN, by 1994 or so, stored on the ground, the gunwales were mulch. The 1995 Explorer we once owned was freebie acquired the same mistreated way. I put vinyl gunwales and deck plates on that one; I knew the guy I was giving it to had no indoor storage available.

Has anyone weighed the 70 or so stainless screws needed for a wood gunwale? I’m thinking 5 or 6 ounces, but don’t really know.
 
One way to get a deal on a canoe, is to look for one with rotted gunnels !

Mike I'm with you ! I doubt there is much weight difference between screws and epoxy when it come to weight.

Off the Water care is really a big one, when it comes to gunnel life.
 
When I first started building, I think it was my second canoe, a well known builder convinced me to glue the gunwales on. I would debate the idea that it is less work to glue gunwales on. When I screw, I clamp the inners on first, and use two drills, one for drilling, one for screwing. Takes me about five minutes per gunwale. The outer is a little longer, as I screw from the inner to the outer, so all the holes have to be counter sunk. I don't bother sealing individual holes, my canoes live in doors when not in use, but I always apply my last couple of coats of varnish after the installation. So screwing gunwales on is very fast for me. My experience glueing was finicky. messy and time consuming.

I've only had experience removing glued gunwales once (and by glueing I mean epoxied). I eventually donated the canoe above to our school club, and it got used hard. I had only built it with a single 6 ounce sheet on the outside, so after ten years of rapid running, shallows dragging, and general abuse from teenagers, the hull was basically a mosaic of patches. I contemplated re-skinning it, or adding another layer, but in the end, I retired it. We were building canoes with the kids, so I figured I would part it out for one of the new builds. Removing the gunwales did not go well. If the canoe hadn't already been retired, it would have been after the process. And the gunwales were unusable, well, let's just say it was easier to build new ones.

I have re-purposed four canoes now, my initial builds that got used by the club, and I was able to re-use all of the gunwales that had been drilled. Of course, I seal my gunwales front and back with epoxy before application.

For those you have never seen broken gunwales on canoes, I can guarantee that it does happen. I have worked on several where car crashes, or car topping incidents or bad pins have resulted in badly damaged canoes. Also, having worked with kids for over thirty years, I have seen exterior gunwales worn down by pries off the goon stroke with aluminium paddles that have necessitated replacement, sometimes partial, sometimes whole.

In the end, glue away, use the dirty double blade, or be like me, and use a motor, whatever keeps you happy. Just keep in mind that if you have to replace your gunwales at some point, you might have an epiphany.
 
I have no screwed or glued dog in this fight, I’ll never do another wood re-gunwale, mostly because good, straight grain 18’ boards are tough to find down my way, and I have no more indoor storage available.

But I am naturally curious, and some good points have been raised.

One way to get a deal on a canoe, is to look for one with rotted gunnels !

Jim, I’ve lost count of how many rotted gunwale freeies I have picked up and refurbished. Some nice hulls in need of regunwaling and simple TLC; ’91 Independence, ’91 Explorer, ’89 Explorer.

And, stupidly, a couple not-so-nice hulls. I regunwaled two ancient “Shenandoah” canoes; original Warsaw Rockets or vintage Blue Hole hulls, outfitted and rebadged by Shenandoah. Not only did those canoes weight a solid 80lbs, Shenandoah had use 1” square oak stock for both the inwales and outwales, installed with steel (not stainless) screws.

Every screw head was corroded to uselessness. I bought one of those damaged screw remover doohickies. No dice. The only way to remove the rails was use a reciprocating saw and (carefully, finishing with a handsaw) cut the gunwales between the screws into 70 separate pieces, and use the pieces as toggles to twist off one section at a time. Glued gunwales might have been easier.

Note “two ancient Shenandoahs”. I’m a slow learner, never again.

I doubt there is much weight difference between screws and epoxy when it come to weight.

I was curious. I got yer screws right heah, let’s screw up a canoe. I counted out and weighed seventy 1 ½” long SS screws. 6.5oz.

Counting out those 70 I realized that box of SS screws was a mess, containing other screws and miscellaneous stuff haphazardly dropped in when I was too lazy to find the correct receptacle. Good opportunity to sort it out.

And, what the heck, if risking to skinny down screwed rails seventy 1” SS screws weigh 4.25oz

I didn’t weigh the assorted cap nuts, nylocks, flange washers and etc that somehow ended up in that box (I know how, and there were some missing treasures in there – yay, a button clip), but for funsies let’s keep screwing up a canoe. Call it a sturdily built tandem:

Two seats with machine screws through drops, call ‘em short drops with 3” machine screws, eight total. Plus 8 flange washers for atop the inwales, 8 small flat washers underneath, 8 nylocks and, what the heck, 8 cap nuts. Less than I thought, 4oz.

A thwart, a yoke, bow and stern stem carry handles; eight 2” machine screws plus flange washers, flat washers, nylocks and cap nuts, 3.5oz.

Total SS hardware weight – 14oz. YMMV.

Now with a full size (3/4" x 3/4" seems to be the accepted norm) gunnel set, the holes won't reduce strength to an unacceptable level ... however, since the full strength of the gunnel set isn't achieved due to the holes, it also means that a glued set can be smaller and still give comparable strength ... with a weight saving from less wood and no screws.

The biggest weight advantage of epoxied wood gunwales is that ability to reduce the thickness needed to seat the screws. The inwale thickness of course depends on how the seats and other brightwork are hung/affixed, and on anticipated use and abuse.

IIRC some older model UL dedicated-racing canoes had no outwale, just a skinny epoxied inwale. I saw what happened to one of those in a race collision with another boat.
 
"I would debate the idea that it is less work to glue gunwales on"

I not sure there is really anything to debate Mem ... if you precoat the gunnels with epoxy, then set clamps and drill the inners, then clamp and apply the outers, drill, countersink and add screws ... that's a lot of steps and I seriously doubt you can do all of that in 5 minutes per gunnel ... maybe you can and I am just a slow worker,

To add glued gunnels ... apply epoxy to the mating surfaces, thicken remaining epoxy and butter, clamp in place ... that I know can be done in less than 10 minutes/gunnel and the longest job is setting the clamps (and I use spring clamps).

"In the end, glue away, use the dirty double blade, or be like me, and use a motor, whatever keeps you happy. Just keep in mind that if you have to replace your gunwales at some point, you might have an epiphany."

I can't imagine any scenario where a glued on gunnel would ever be easier to remove than a screwed on version. I build without staples and used to use shockcord to apply pressure to apply clamping force to the strips. Easily the biggest time sink in the process .... then Jim posts his Jimmy clamps and presto the job became so much faster and easier ... perhaps removing gunnels is just a matter of having the right tool for the job, not necessarily the tool at hand.

"Mike I'm with you ! I doubt there is much weight difference between screws and epoxy when it come to weight."

Jim ... I believe it gets a little more complicated than that ... one of the advantages of a glued on gunnel, is that it can be smaller and provide the same strength. Once you reduce the size and subtract the screws ... it is a significant difference. Choosing the type of gunnels to use should always be with the intended use in mind (IMO). Saving weight is one of the primary reasons I would choose a glued on gunnel, so if weight isn't high on the builders goal list, then choosing glued on gunnels make less sense when compared to a screwed on version.

I tend to bang the "weight" drum a lot and that has to do mostly with getting out into the wild and taking gear I have made myself with me. As I get older, the drive to lighten the load gets more important and I suspect a few folks here are in the same boat (pun intended). Two years ago, one of the groups I adventure with planned a spring trip which included a 2.5 km portage ... for me that a fair way ... for others it may be a cake walk, but I wanted to plan for that portage. I usually take my Freedom Solo @ 39#s, but for this trip I opted for a Swift 30# Keeywadin rental .... that trip has started me on another drive to lighten my canoes even further. 10#s on a long portage is very significant (at least for me).

If you are at the start of a trip with several long portages and there are 2 canoes in front of you, one 30 pounds, yours at 40 pounds ... both will be suitable for you and you get to choose one for the trip, which would pick? I would pick the 30# version everytime and if you are honest, I suspect most folks would. I wouldn't be looking at the screwed or glued gunnels, I would be looking at suitability for purpose/use and weight would be near the top of the list.

If you are at the start of a long river trip, with a few short portages and the rest is just winding river with a few side trips up creeks, you have 2 canoes in front of you, one at 30#s and one at 40#s, both are suitable for you ... well the choice becomes a little different, because weight isn't in the equation much anymore. Maybe you start looking at rocker or beam or length, whatever, the point is that the decision on what you want in a canoe will change depending on the environment it is being used in.

I believe this to be true for most aspects of "tripping", whether it is hammock vs. tent, single vs. DDB or even seats with hanging vs cleat .... all choices, all preferences, all for suitability of purpose .... there are very few aspects of tripping that have a single "best" item or method ... it is more the best thing for you and the environment you venture to.


Brian
 
...

IIRC some older model UL dedicated-racing canoes had no outwale, just a skinny epoxied inwale. I saw what happened to one of those in a race collision with another boat.

My 1986 J-200 is sans outwale. The inwale is three strips laminated together, each about 1/2 x 3/16 so they add up to circa 1/2 inch square. Given the chorus effect they're fairly stiff for their size, and there is no wood "in the rain" when the boat is on its rails. It's not a bad system for a canoe with no hung seats and no reason to pry. I'm surprised there aren't more laminated wood gunwales, it would seem to be not that much harder than sealing a single stick, and if the sticks are too short it makes scarfing more straightforward.

That boat has a glass jaw, but it's the chines/wings -- pointy and just one layer of 5oz kevlar, barely wetted out.
 
I’m sure this information is out there somewhere, but I’d be curious about the comparative weight differences between standard ash gunwales, various aluminum gunwales (OT’s are less beefy than some others), vinyl gunwales with aluminum inserts, and composite (carbon, whatever) gunwales.

While I have the small weight scale out, one more just for funsies; for vinyl or aluminum gunwale installation seventy 3/16” dia x ½” pop rivets weighed just under 3 oz.

Edit: That 3oz was weight with intact, unused pop rivets. Once snapped in place, with the mandrel gone, probably half that weight.
 
Last edited:
My 1986 J-200 is sans outwale. The inwale is three strips laminated together, each about 1/2 x 3/16 so they add up to circa 1/2 inch square. Given the chorus effect they're fairly stiff for their size, and there is no wood "in the rain" when the boat is on its rails. It's not a bad system for a canoe with no hung seats and no reason to pry. I'm surprised there aren't more laminated wood gunwales, it would seem to be not that much harder than sealing a single stick, and if the sticks are too short it makes scarfing more straightforward.

That boat has a glass jaw, but it's the chines/wings -- pointy and just one layer of 5oz kevlar, barely wetted out.

I had an old J-180 that was the same design and it prompted me to glue a 3/8" inwale (no outwale) to a 17' cedar strip I built. I used a pedestal seat. Boat came in right at 30 pounds and has quite a few easy miles on it with no problems. If it had more volume I wouldn't hesitate to take it lake tripping.

Alan
 
C'mon man, a ten year old girl could snap that gunwale at any spot with her pinky finger. The only thing that pic shows is that someone doesn't know how to care for a canoe.
 
Good thing those gray gunwales aren't glued on, you would never get them off. Them things look to be 20 years old.
 
I guess I am half of each as on my last stripper build the inners were epoxied in and the outers screwed. Inners won't take much abuse short of a wrap but outers do so I will stick to screwing those. However, I will still not use staples, I had to on that last stripper and hate seeing them left over marks in the hull in front of me.

Ultimately, to each their own and neither way is superior.

Karin
 
Last Sunday's incident got me thinking. Here's how I see's it. When that compressor blew up, it blew the twin cylinder piece thru the window and it struck the gunnel on my canoe and landed in the bottom behind the front seat. I took a picture after opening the basement door, and then noticed my canoe was knocked off the strong back it was sitting on. Then I noticed the compressor cylinders laying it. I don't know how much force there was when that thing landed on my canoe. I see no damage to the hull, but I haven't had a chance to inspect it thoroughly yet, it did mess up my gunnel. I had a walnut strip epoxied to the inside gunnel for a little decoration and thickness.

When I built it I screwed and epoxied the inner gunnels on. I didn't have enough clamps, and I figured the screws would help pre-fit and line it up. The screws go thru the sheer strip and into the inner gunnels. Then, after I purchased more clamps, I attached the outer gunnels with thickened epoxy. I butter over the screw heads that held the inner gunnels on.

The impact scarred up the gunnel, but didn't break it loose. It did break the walnut trim piece off in that area.

To remove the inner gunnel would require me to remove the outer one. With thickened epoxy smeared in the screw heads, it would be very hard to remove the inner gunnel. Plus when I installed my deck plates, I laid 6oz fiberglass on bottom of decks, slathered them and the tops, and inside gunnels, with epoxy and clamped them together.

If everything would've been screwed together, it would be easier to replace. Now that mine is glued and partially screwd, how screwd am I trying to fix it. I will say one thing for sure, that epoxy is some tuff stuff.
 

Attachments

  • photo18464.jpg
    photo18464.jpg
    161.7 KB · Views: 2
  • photo18467.jpg
    photo18467.jpg
    191.9 KB · Views: 1
  • photo18469.jpg
    photo18469.jpg
    182.6 KB · Views: 1
  • photo18470.jpg
    photo18470.jpg
    290.6 KB · Views: 2
  • photo18471.jpg
    photo18471.jpg
    215.8 KB · Views: 2
Oh I might add, when my wife saw the glass and that greasy cylinder head laying in the bottom of the canoe, in a puddle of oil, she started to cry. I told her it wasn't as bad as it looked. She cleaned the oil and glass up out of it. I'm glad she likes our canoe.
 
Back
Top