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Passage Solo build
- Thread starter Sven
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She looks Great !
Looking closer at your seat braces, They look to hold fishing poles great. Maybe a paddle ???
How many cans of Helmsman ?
I like the yoke ! The carbon looks thicker than that ! This method merits more experimenting I'm likely to try it on My TOO heavy yoke system !
End of Sept, during the Full moon would be cool in the BWCA !
Enjoy !
Jim
Looking closer at your seat braces, They look to hold fishing poles great. Maybe a paddle ???
How many cans of Helmsman ?
I like the yoke ! The carbon looks thicker than that ! This method merits more experimenting I'm likely to try it on My TOO heavy yoke system !
End of Sept, during the Full moon would be cool in the BWCA !
Enjoy !
Jim
Turned out looking very, very nice. Do let us know how the spray finish holds up - never tried it, I'm generally too cheap to buy in smaller quantities, especially as there's always something that I can use helmsman for.
Holmes,
Thank you!
I always have runs when I brush varnish so I opted for the spray cans this time. Not a single run...I also got the cans for about 6$ each on clearance at Home Depot.
Thanks Jim,
I almost closed those seat rails up for floatation purposes, and now I'm glad I did not since my 2 piece rods fit in there so nicely. I know it is hard to tell from the pictures how large the opening is but a paddle handle is a bit too large to fit in them, though I think I have another way in which I can utilize those rails to hold the paddle tight to the side of them and under the seat for portaging.
I used 5 full cans of helmsman spar on the hull.
The yoke....that was an experiment from the get go, but I like how it turned out. Originally I was going to make it out of cedar at 3/4" thickness and then glass it on both sides with 4 oz cloth. Not sure what it weighed before cutting it in half (It originally was full 3/4thickness), but I'm very happy with the weight of it...it has a final weight of 15.5 ounces including hardware and foam. the foam only added about 1.5 ounces. It is seemingly plenty strong to hold this canoe and probably would support twice the weight without too much flex.
Sailsman,
Thanks for the compliment.
I also struggle with brushing on varnish. Almost always ending up with at least a couple runs/sags in my finished product. I ended up without a single run in the finish of the outside hull. I brushed the gunwales with varathane spar and of course had a few sags in the finish...oh well. The next one I do I am considering spraying varathane with my HVLP since it would allow me to not sand between coats as long as you don't wait more than about 12 hours according to the directions on the can.
Thank you!
I always have runs when I brush varnish so I opted for the spray cans this time. Not a single run...I also got the cans for about 6$ each on clearance at Home Depot.
Thanks Jim,
I almost closed those seat rails up for floatation purposes, and now I'm glad I did not since my 2 piece rods fit in there so nicely. I know it is hard to tell from the pictures how large the opening is but a paddle handle is a bit too large to fit in them, though I think I have another way in which I can utilize those rails to hold the paddle tight to the side of them and under the seat for portaging.
I used 5 full cans of helmsman spar on the hull.
The yoke....that was an experiment from the get go, but I like how it turned out. Originally I was going to make it out of cedar at 3/4" thickness and then glass it on both sides with 4 oz cloth. Not sure what it weighed before cutting it in half (It originally was full 3/4thickness), but I'm very happy with the weight of it...it has a final weight of 15.5 ounces including hardware and foam. the foam only added about 1.5 ounces. It is seemingly plenty strong to hold this canoe and probably would support twice the weight without too much flex.
Sailsman,
Thanks for the compliment.
I also struggle with brushing on varnish. Almost always ending up with at least a couple runs/sags in my finished product. I ended up without a single run in the finish of the outside hull. I brushed the gunwales with varathane spar and of course had a few sags in the finish...oh well. The next one I do I am considering spraying varathane with my HVLP since it would allow me to not sand between coats as long as you don't wait more than about 12 hours according to the directions on the can.
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Wow Steve, that turned out awesome! Great idea on the yoke - that avoids the PITA of trying to wrap fabric around the whole thing and still gives you a strong sandwich. How many layers of fabric did you use on the angled seat supports? And is that a strip of cedar imbedded in it? Curious how you were able to get it stiff enough.
Thanks Mike,
I am pretty pleased with the yoke and how it turned out. I actually have the other half blank from the original one which was cut in half, and I would be willing to make one for you if you have not already made yourself another one to replace the damaged one on your new boat. I believe it is a 35-36" yoke that I started with before cutting the ends off to accommodate the narrower hull of the solo. It's the same pattern I used on my tandem.
I used 3 layers of 5.7 oz on the seat supports. Yes that is a 3/4 x 3/4 stick of cedar in the corner on the back side. that made them extremely rigid. though I believe they gained a lot more strength once I glued and glassed them into place inside the hull. The truth of the matter is that this seat configuration is still just in the prototype stage and I have not put my full weight on the seat/braces yet. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I don't end up having some sort of catastrophic failure the first time I sit in it....I should know this weekend as I intend to get it on the water on Sunday morning.
I am pretty pleased with the yoke and how it turned out. I actually have the other half blank from the original one which was cut in half, and I would be willing to make one for you if you have not already made yourself another one to replace the damaged one on your new boat. I believe it is a 35-36" yoke that I started with before cutting the ends off to accommodate the narrower hull of the solo. It's the same pattern I used on my tandem.
I used 3 layers of 5.7 oz on the seat supports. Yes that is a 3/4 x 3/4 stick of cedar in the corner on the back side. that made them extremely rigid. though I believe they gained a lot more strength once I glued and glassed them into place inside the hull. The truth of the matter is that this seat configuration is still just in the prototype stage and I have not put my full weight on the seat/braces yet. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I don't end up having some sort of catastrophic failure the first time I sit in it....I should know this weekend as I intend to get it on the water on Sunday morning.
I can't stop thinking about that seat rail setup 
I'd like to do something like that in my Magic. With its extreme tumblehome and my elevated mount height for kneeling, the vertical legs would be longer. Its doable - I just finished playing with some cardboard templates to visualize. With the longer legs mine would require I'd probably build the mounts from scrap cedar strips and do the CF sandwich thing. Make a small wedge that attaches to the rear seat rail to achieve the angle I want for kneeling.
How are you securing the seat to the rails allowing re-positioning?
I'd like to do something like that in my Magic. With its extreme tumblehome and my elevated mount height for kneeling, the vertical legs would be longer. Its doable - I just finished playing with some cardboard templates to visualize. With the longer legs mine would require I'd probably build the mounts from scrap cedar strips and do the CF sandwich thing. Make a small wedge that attaches to the rear seat rail to achieve the angle I want for kneeling.How are you securing the seat to the rails allowing re-positioning?
Holmes,
I almost built my rails out of strips, but decided to go with carbon instead for a bit of an accent as well as weight. They ended up weighing about 12 ounces for each side. I used cardboard templates to achieve a rough fitment of my rails at first, then slowly scribed them into place. It was quite the tedious process.
I am using a 3M product called dual lock to allow for re-positioning. It is a "Velcro like" product but is much stronger and doesn't seem to wear out like traditional hook and loop Velcro. It makes a bit of a snapping sound as the opposing pieces click together. The best part is that it weighs next to nothing. Who knows, in the end I may end up using some hardware and doing my secondary option for adjustment if I end up not liking the way this stuff works in the long run.
I almost built my rails out of strips, but decided to go with carbon instead for a bit of an accent as well as weight. They ended up weighing about 12 ounces for each side. I used cardboard templates to achieve a rough fitment of my rails at first, then slowly scribed them into place. It was quite the tedious process.
I am using a 3M product called dual lock to allow for re-positioning. It is a "Velcro like" product but is much stronger and doesn't seem to wear out like traditional hook and loop Velcro. It makes a bit of a snapping sound as the opposing pieces click together. The best part is that it weighs next to nothing. Who knows, in the end I may end up using some hardware and doing my secondary option for adjustment if I end up not liking the way this stuff works in the long run.
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Ha! That's what I was going to recommend. I use a lot of hook 'n loop in my thermoplastic holster making. The Dual-Lock is too aggressive for that application. One of the big benefits of the D-L over the H'nL is the former doesn't gather debris nearly as bad as velcro style products. And when it does get dirty its much easier to clean the little 'shrooms than the fuzz.
I'm very excited to hear of your impressions with your new additions after you paddle it this weekend.
I'm very excited to hear of your impressions with your new additions after you paddle it this weekend.
Well....I got the solo out over last weekend. It's going to take a little while for me to get used to it. On that note I am glad I live in an area where there are so many options for places to go.
The seat seems to be very secure with the dual lock though adjustment is probably best done while not in the boat. I think I need to put some reference marks on the long strips attached to the cleats to make placing it parallel to the center a little easier. In the end I am happy so far and it didn't suffer a catastrophic failure the first time I sat down in it. Now I need to figure out how I will do a foot brace....
Here are a couple pics of it on the water
Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr
Untitled by Steven Fike, on Flickr
The seat seems to be very secure with the dual lock though adjustment is probably best done while not in the boat. I think I need to put some reference marks on the long strips attached to the cleats to make placing it parallel to the center a little easier. In the end I am happy so far and it didn't suffer a catastrophic failure the first time I sat down in it. Now I need to figure out how I will do a foot brace....
Here are a couple pics of it on the water
Untitled by Steven Fike, on FlickrUntitled by Steven Fike, on FlickrUntitled by Steven Fike, on FlickrJim,
Thanks again for the compliments!
It is great to be able to paddle when I have an hour or 2 of free time, which is not very often, though I have made it out the last 2 weekends in a row.
matching the strips certainly added time to the build but as you said I also fell like it was worth it.
I have not weighed it since before the varnish.....and at that time it came in at 36#
I'm very happy to have built a sub 40# boat that is double layered inside and out with fiberglass.
How's the water level on your local stream? I would like to head your way some time soon for a day paddle if you are able to make some time.
Thanks again for the compliments!
It is great to be able to paddle when I have an hour or 2 of free time, which is not very often, though I have made it out the last 2 weekends in a row.
matching the strips certainly added time to the build but as you said I also fell like it was worth it.
I have not weighed it since before the varnish.....and at that time it came in at 36#
I'm very happy to have built a sub 40# boat that is double layered inside and out with fiberglass.
How's the water level on your local stream? I would like to head your way some time soon for a day paddle if you are able to make some time.
Breaking that 40# mark is tough, I haven't been real successful at it, but always a goal !
Water levels at my favorite river locally (West Branch Des Moines ) has been too high to really enjoy. Confession, I've only been on it once this Summer ! Too many Irons in the Fire !
You are sure Welcome to come on down anytime and maybe we can coax Alan Gage into paddling ! Maybe somewhere between us ?
Jim
Water levels at my favorite river locally (West Branch Des Moines ) has been too high to really enjoy. Confession, I've only been on it once this Summer ! Too many Irons in the Fire !
You are sure Welcome to come on down anytime and maybe we can coax Alan Gage into paddling ! Maybe somewhere between us ?
Jim
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