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My first cedar strip canoe build -- 17' Kooteny (was Micmac)

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I've been wanting to build one of these since I first read an article about it in Canoe magazine in 1977 (I still have the magazine article and the plans that I purchased at the time). Hard to believe that it has taken almost 40 years to actually start building in earnest. For my first build, I have decided on David Hazen's 17 ft. Micmac, primarily due to the recommendation of Todd Bradshaw in his book Canoe Rig. I want this to be a good all around canoe that I can use for sailing, poling and tandem canoe camping trips. My biggest concern with this design is that the plans only include forms every 2 feet, where most plans seem to have forms spaced 1 foot apart. Any thoughts on how big a deal this is? So far I have gotten my boards ripped and am about 75% done with milling the bead and cove.
 

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That was my first canoe build actually back in 1977. Time sure does fly by. If those are the plans from the way back time machine be careful. They don't look the same to memory, just saying. I didn't know anything about fairing up the molds, heck I didn't know much at all and there was no internet. Anyway I merrily built the boat, cosmetically it came out ok, had some issues with the fiberglass work. I didn't use epoxy I used polyester resin. The real issue I had was the two end forms were the wrong shape, they were too high along the bottom. I had a pronounced bump on either end of the canoe. I thought I had done something wrong until one day when we had it on top of the car someone said 'I see you built the Micmac. I have the same dang bumps on my boat'. It was then that I decided I needed to learn how to loft so I wouldn't build in mistakes. That also was probably the real start of my boatbuilding career.
That's a long way of saying when you have your molds set up, lay some strips on in several places and directions so you can see if the molds are fair.
Jim
 
I just finished my first hull from scratch this summer and I'll second Boatman53's comment, and add that my issue arose from not accounting for the taller angle of the strip joint at the ends where the strips come together at a greater angle. This added 1/2 inch to those joins and thus reduced my rocker by a 1/2 inch. That's what I get for building my first without plans. Still came out okay. Keep that in mind when setting up the forms at the ends.
 
Two feet is a long stretch between forms. You'll find it difficult to keep the strips together in many places, whether they are bead and cove or not.
 
Two feet is a long stretch between forms. You'll find it difficult to keep the strips together in many places, whether they are bead and cove or not.

I agree ! But it can be done and bead and cove will be a great aid. Staples, lots of them can be your friend !
​ As others have talked about the rise at the stem forms. Just lower them an 1/8-1/4" That should eliminate that rise.
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I noticed you are running your strips between the fence, and the bit, on your router set up . Good !

​ I started dreaming of the Mic Mac in my early years also. The Minnesota Canoe Assc. members, steered my away from it.
​ Bead and cove wasn't in practice much then, and it should help in this build. But it's not too late to bail, and go with another design !

Good start anyway !

Jim
 
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Thanks for your thoughts everyone. I've decided to improve my ease of success on my first stripper and go with plans that have formers every 12". I already have a set of plans for a very similar design, the Kooteny designed by Bruce Kunz from the MCA.

Jim Dodd - I'm glad you approve of my router setup. It should look familiar since I specifically referenced your previous posts when I did it.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Bernard
 
I paddled a Kootenay designed by Bruce this last Fall. The original builder stretched the forms, I'll check with the owner for exact length, but it paddled great !
He paddled it with a small dog, extra camera gear, and the usual camping gear. It was fine ! He's been to the BWCA 60+ times. So it had a thorough testing !

A building note on the Kootenay, because of the recurve on the stem, use plenty of non stick tape. Lately I've been using clear packing tape, with great results as far form removal.

I'm excited about your build !

​Jim
 
Finished milling sips tonight. Yeah! Next step is the station molds.

Jim Dodd - was your friends Kootney the solo or tandem version?

Bernard
 
Solo.
some pics of Larry's Kootenay, oh and Sam the "Faithful".
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Loaded

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Up on shore

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Again this is a Bruce Kunz designed Kootenay, stretched to I believe a little over 16'.
It paddled great, and the seat was low enough for great stability.

Jim
 
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Finally got a chance to get back to work on my canoe project this past week. I decided to modify the original plans slightly by increasing the bow rocker from 1" to approximately 2-3/8".
 

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I'll bet you're pretty excited to get those forms lined up on a strongback and see the hull shape in real life.
Those forms do remind me of my buddy's Micmac...pretty round bottom. I only paddled his Micmac a few times, it tracked fairly well, yet still was maneuverable. It did wiggle around quite a bit, plenty of stability, but just an active hull. Another buddy of mine built a 3-27 pro boat, fully rounded, with lots of flare. He could roll it to the gunnels confidently, but it dithered constantly. Both of those guys adapted well, proof again that a fellow can get used to anything!

Did you decide yet on your glass thickness, number of layers, brand of epoxy?
 
Hello to all the builders on the site, this is my first post though I have lurked for some time. I'm surprised to see a mention of a MicMac canoe. I built mine in 2013 mostly on the recommendations from Todd Bradshaw on the wooden boat forum. I ran in to the same issue with the stem form being a half inch lower than the last form also. I faired it out with an extra half inch plywood piece under the form. The forms are spread out quite a ways for the 17 foot boat, but doable. I went stapeless so when the glue dried and I removed the wedges that held the two strips that I had just put on in place, the boat sprung out into a natural curve that seemed to work well. The boat came out really nice except for some staining from the resin and after lowering the seats to a more stable height is very fun to paddle. A lively hull that glides through the water without making a sound. From what I researched, Hazen Modified the MCA guide model to come up with the MicMac.
 
Finally got a chance to get back to work on my canoe project this past week. I decided to modify the original plans slightly by increasing the bow rocker from 1" to approximately 2-3/8".

Presuming you are going Stemless ! If so, good choice !
I'm a fan of staples, but if you have plenty of time, stapleless is good too.
Staples should hold your strips to the forms better also.

Jim
 
Welcome Wingnut !

Can you spare a few pics of your Mic Mac ?
I love pics !

Jim
 
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Here you go Jim. After I finished it I took a bunch of pics of it in the backyard.
 

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Didn't mean to hijack your build thread Bernjo. I'm looking forward to following your progress. I looked into the Kootnay from the MCA also when I was looking for solo plans but didn't like the rocker. Adding some rocker is a good Idea I think.
 
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