La Vérendrye: Canada’s Largest Canoe Camping Reserve

[Glenn MacGrady]

This Quebec gem is twice the size of Ontario's Algonquin Park and is reportedly much less crowded.

"Boasting more than 800 kilometers of maintained routes traversing rivers, reservoirs and some 4,000 scenic lakes, Réserve faunique La Vérendrye is one of North America’s most expansive—and least crowded—canoe camping destinations. Paddlers can choose from 500 backcountry campsites and 20 established canoe camping circuits, ranging from easy two- or three-day loops to challenging routes of 10 days or more."

Canada’s Largest Canoe Camping Reserve Is Hidden in Plain Sight—And It’s Not Algonquin

Boasting more than 800 kilometers of maintained routes traversing rivers, reservoirs and some 4,000 scenic lakes, Réserve faunique La Vérendrye is one of

paddlingmag.com

I know several of our members have paddled in La Vérendrye, so let's hear some experiences and recommendations as well as seeing some pictures.

 

[Tryin']

Thanks for sharing, Glenn. Thats a place I've never heard of.

 

[Jmharrick]

I’m very interested in this thread, as my move next month to upstate NY brings this park much closer!

 

[Crazy Trout Craft (CTC)]

Not sure how to link my older post.. but I posted a report in 2022… La Verendrye- fulfilling a boyhood dream - if anyone is interested

 

[scratchypants]

I've posted a couple of times about the change of administration from a canoe-tripping-centric group to SEPAQ (Wikipedia link). For the experienced backcountry canoeists, this is a bit of a problem as SEPAQ sells very structured, packages/routes.

 

[Paddlinhal]

From my house in central mass, it's about the same 10 hour drive as to Allagash Village. It has a lot less visitation than Algonquin. We paddled the Chochoquan, which starts outside the reserve. As I recall, we had the place to ourselves, all the campsites were great.

 

[recped]

I've posted a couple of times about the change of administration from a canoe-tripping-centric group to SEPAQ (Wikipedia link). For the experienced backcountry canoeists, this is a bit of a problem as SEPAQ sells very structured, packages/routes.

Up until the takeover by SEPAQ the canoe aspects of La Verendrye were operated by FQCK (https://canot-kayak.qc.ca/) an organization dedicated to paddling throughout Quebec. They were great to work with as opposed to SEPAQ which is really only interested in front country camping and the fishing/motorboat crowd. In Quebec "camping" means trailers that park in the same spot for weeks and spend most of their time motoring on the reservoirs with paddlers being an afterthought with all kinds of rules that are not conducive to the back country paddling crowd.

It's an unfortunate change but still La Verendrye can be a nice place to paddle, frequently referred to as Algonquin without the crowds (once you get past the first portage). Personally I have only paddled there during the "closed" season when you can pretty much do as you please. Most of the paddling I've done there was either trips starting in the park for a day or two or ending trips that are within the park for the last day or two.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Not sure how to link my older post.. but I posted a report in 2022… La Verendrye- fulfilling a boyhood dream - if anyone is interested

Here is your trip report thread, CTC. You just go to the beginning of the thread, copy its URL from the address bar in your browser, and paste that URL in the reply box here (after a line space, so it will "unfurl").

La Verendrye- fulfilling a boyhood dream

As I am new to the site… I wanted to express my thanks for everyone’s input over the past months both in my endeavor to restore my ol’ Yankee and to successfully complete my first canoe camping trip that I have dreamed of for 40 years since I was eight years old. A close family member and...

www.canoetripping.net

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I'm pretty sure @Robin and @Gerald have paddled La Vérendrye more than once, so hopefully they'll chime in when they see the thread.

 

[Gamma1214]

I'm almost positive @yellowcanoe has been there as well. Pretty sure she told me I should add it to the bucket list.

 

[Gerald]

LV is only a 2.5 hour drive from home. Been going there off and on since the early 60's. Some great souvenirs of the place. Have not been there since the SEPAQ have taken over. Feedback regarding the philosophy of the present administration does not suit my style of solo canoeing. At my age (86) I like to relax and smell the flowers. I like to sign up for a circuit, then do something else. The old administration tolerated my bending the rules. I'm too old now to be on a tight schedule.

G.

 

[Robin]

I have been to La Verendrye quite a few times, some early in spring during the first week the reserve was open, other times the last week of operation. My favorite time was early August, maybe the first week or two. Most trips were about a week iirc. I rarely saw anyone else.


I have heard that there have been changes to the way the place is operated for canoe trippers but since my days of crossing portage trails has passed, I haven’t paid much attention to the reports. I had a friend tell me not much has changed, they have rules in the office but as long as you park your car at the place your permit allows, no one checks the routes you follow. I have never seen an official of the reserve in the back country and there are so many options for route changes I would and have just gone the way I wanted, and still would.



Like I said, I have rarely encountered other people in LaVerendrye, especially in early August, but in all fairness, most of my time there has been spent far north of Le Domaine (park headquarters) Fishing and the folks fishing attracts seems to be a spring thing there. There will be power boats on the big lakes, but they will be few and far between in my experience, especially in early August. I would avoid holiday weeks. Finding an open campsite has never been a problem, I have actually hardly ever come across an occupied campsite. Many campsites don’t show the overuse like I see in other parks.



Fishing in La Verendrye can be expensive, but it can also be very good. In reality, all I would need to fish there was a white jig with a black tale, time (evenings) and location (current) where key. In the beginning I would buy an 8 day non resident license (license maybe $60 cdn) and an 8 day reserve fishing permit ($100.00 cdn, iirc) My last few trips I bought a 3 day non resident Quebec license and a 3 day reserve permit and just fished those 3 days in the middle of the trip, well maybe only those 3 days.



I met this couple one day as they stopped to clean my site. He was a charming character, she a shy college student. He told me that they have many rules back at Le Domaine but nobody who wants to get their hands dirty to try to enforce them. Of course things could have changed, there could be a park official behind every spruce but I would still trip my old style.



It’s a great place, I’m glad I spent so much time there. Very fond memories!

 

[Modified Ottertail]

Two weeks ago, I reserved a trip for later this summer. It will be my first visit, so I never interacted with the old administration. I had an easy time making the reservation, and the Sépaq person was helpful.