Kite +6%

[Gamma1214]

You guys think that amount of glass is enough to support the seat?

Seems almost like overkill to me.

Honestly, as stated above, I think you'll be fine but you have to be comfortable with the layup or you'll be timid about taking it on backcountry trips (where it's longing to go).

I think you'll be shocked how much stiffer it is with the inside glass but, and SG says, you can always add another layer if you're still in doubt.

 

[Jim Dodd]

So I was finishing up the last of the inside sanding yesterday. I was moving the boat around and heard a loud crack as some glue let go on the bottom. I quickly moved the foam supports out to the ends and put the center from back in. Lesson learned, don’t move it with a form in place and get a helper. It changed my mind in a fraction of a second about having a light weight boat. I think I’ll be adding that extra layer on the football. It also has me wondering about the strength of hanging the seat from the gunnels. I was planning one full layer plus the additional transverse layer in the cockpit. I’ll make the filet joint at least 1/4” wide along the inside of the tumblehome section. You guys think that amount of glass is enough to support the seat?

Yup. Early on, a guy climbed into a Wee Lassee I built. Heard the crack also. I double layer the bottoms of all my strippers.

To me ? the added durability is worth it.

As far as hanging the seat from the gunnels ? All but a few Wee Lassee's? I have hung all mine from the gunnels, and never a problem.
That extra layer is optional, in a kite ? Maybe a good idea.

Jim

 

[BigandSmall]

Got the fillet joints done and the seal coat completed. I used my wife's icing bags and the disposable wooden spoon again for the fillets. I only mixed up 2 pumps of epoxy this time instead of 3 when doing the seal coat. It allowed me to get it on thinner by getting it all on before the pot life timed out.

 

[Gamma1214]

Looks great.

I'm curious about what you taped off in the first pic and why.

 

[Alan Gage]

Got the fillet joints done and the seal coat completed. I used my wife's icing bags and the disposable wooden spoon again for the fillets.

I'm sure an icing bag works better but for anyone else reading that doesn't have one laying around I've had good luck doing the same with the corner nipped of a zip-lock baggie.

The boat is looking great. Can't wait to see the inside glassed and trim going on.

Alan

 

[BigandSmall]

Gamma, the masking is for the fillet joint. I find it helps keep the mess to a minimum but more importantly it acts as a guide to get a uniform width joint. I made the joint slightly wider in the cockpit and tapered it towards the ends. I also added a little filler at the ends where the tumblehome tied in and it was uneven. With either the icing bag or a ziplock bag I find a 3/8 wide cut at the end just about perfect.

In the spirit of full disclosure I should share an oops I had. I was using my random orbital and interface pad cleaning up around the bow inside stem. I had my headlamp on which while it gives great light you miss details sometimes when it points straight down. In the first picture everything looks good but in the second with the light at a different angle you can see I've removed way too much material and am dangerously close to sanding through. I'll be adding an additional patch of glass there to strengthen that bit.


@stripperguy roughly how long are your float tanks?

 

[Gamma1214]

Interesting. I've never done a fillet on the tumblehome and don't worry about keeping the stems neat because I hide all of the mess inside float tanks. I like the way you've done it but I doubt that I have that kind of patience.

 

[dutchlennart]

Not sure if i would add air tanks. Your boat stays afloat without them and is serious stuff you need more flotation then there is in airtanks. That where my toughts on my home build. And on all 3 wooden canoe i currently own. Airtanks on composite boats yes please if they are used on friendly waters where chance on capsize is low. In rough conditions i want a lot of flotation (airbags, big airtanks or strapped in bags/barrels)

 

[memaquay]

Agree with Dutch, I've never added float tanks, I have submerged cedar strips on purpose many times, have always been able to self rescue. Plus, you have done such a beautiful job on your internal stems, why bury them under a chamber?

 

[Gamma1214]

...you have done such a beautiful job on your internal stems, why bury them under a chamber?

Do what you want but I'll agree with this 100%.

 

[stripperguy]

Mr Big,
My woodstrip Kite is tucked away in a storage trailer, but my carbon copy is in the garage...I'll measure the decks and bulkheads on that one shortly.

 

[Jim Dodd]

OK Bulkheads or not ?

Stripp[ers will float, when filled with water. push down on them with little pressure. They will sink, and take a long time to return to the surface. I have actually tried this.
Flotation chambers will bring the hull to the surface almost immediately.
If you plan a Wilderness solo trip ? Go with bulkheads.

As for the size of my flotation tanks ? Mine are about 24" long depending on the canoe size.



I have a thread way back somewhere. That gives details on how I measure for fit.

Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

I found the thread, on how I build my Flotation chambers.
It's in my Nokomis build thread.

Sorry for the Photobucket interference !

Direct link to page #6 which discusses the float tanks

Nokomis Build

Managed to seal coat the inside of Nokomis late yesterday. Seal coating has always been a hot topic, amongst builders. I talk myself out of doing it, and when it comes time to glass the inside, I go back to my OLD ways. Nokomis required just 22 oz of mixed resin, to seal coat. After it set...

www.canoetripping.net

Jim

 

[BigandSmall]

Thanks for all that guys. I didn't sand my ends with the intention of using float tanks. I'll have to think about it.

 

[stripperguy]

Well, I just went out to the garage to measure the decks and bulkheads in my carbon copy Kite.
Haha, the trick's on me!! I don't have any decks or bulkheads. Goes to show you how much I've paddled this past season...Don't even know my own boat!!
Anyway, I looked back on build photos of my stripped Kite, I'll add them in here for clarity.
Decks I kept a couple inches below the gunwales, bulkheads are roughly at the second form, each end.
Decks kept lower to not interfere with the foam/carbon gunwales, mostly, but also to fit better with that creased tumblehome.

The main reasons I like decks and bulkheads are four fold:
1. Hide a multitude of sins.
2. Provide tremendous strength increase.
3. Flotation, duh.
4. Provide a convenient step/foothold when breaching beaver dams. (I do that quite frequently on my infrequent paddling)

Bulkheads and decks are stripped from WRC, sanded and glassed both sides. Bulkheads were epoxied in place with Cabosil thickened epoxy, glassed in place on the inside, in case they ever get kicked hard.
Decks and bulkheads glassed to the inside of the hull all around. Decks epoxied in place on cleats that were epoxied to the hull. (again with Cacosil thickening)

Pics below, as mentioned.