A western USA trip that's often done inn-to-inn, though locally it's called "lodge-to-lodge," is the Rogue River in Southwestern Oregon.
Too Tall, this isn't a trip that you'd likely be interested in, partly because it's across the continent from you, next to 3000 miles away, but mainly because it's whitewater, and you hint that you're interested in lake or easy river trips. Others here might be interested, though with increased river interest the logistics are now probably harder than our trip many a moon back (late '80s). Scenery- and wildlife-wise it has to compare with the eastern trips mentioned, too. It's a federally designated Wild and Scenic stretch, with sightings of deer, river otters, and other animals possible, and if camping river runners aren't careful with food, a visit by black bears could liven up their trip. (We have tooth marks in a cooler to prove it; fortunately it was empty before Mr. Bear tried to get into it.) I don't think there are any year around human residents, only spring into fall lodge inhabitants.
The run is classed mostly a 2-3 run with a class 4 possible at some water levels.
Anyone interested who snags a permit for the Wild & Scenic stretch can see if they can book nights for their group, but it would surprise me without lots of lead time or possibly because of a cancellation. Never know though. Private trips (noncommercial) only require permits between May 15th and October 15th, so trips could be attempted outside of those dates, though not all lodges are open that early or late. I don't think any are open year around, but the few I looked at seem to have at least a couple weeks worth extra at each end.
This is a shorter run than the Connecticut River trip the NYT article describes, only about 36 miles unless you launch higher up, but it's also usually done in 3 days (sometimes less), which means either shorter days on the water or more time for poking about on your way. The Wild & Scenic section starts at Grave Creek and ends at Foster Bar, both of which offer easy road access. Grave Creek is about 11 miles below the little town of Galice, and Foster Bar is about 42 miles upstream of Gold Beach where the Rogue flows into the Pacific Ocean.
There are three or four lodges most used for overnighting, though other lodges exist, some of which are not as well placed for this endeavor. The first night is best spent at Black Bar Lodge, which is located on the south bank about 9 miles below the Grave Creek Launch site. You need to know where it is, as the buildings are not visible from the river. Their access trail starts 300 yards below Lower Black Bar Rapids. Black Bar Lodge does have (private?) road access, though it is reportedly 4WD. It is how their supplies come to the lodge, including propane for heat. I doubt that they accept drive-in clients. When we did our lodge-to-lodge run, Black Bar Lodge was not open year around, opened May 1st as I remember from our run. That could have changed. Most accommodations are rustic cabins of various sizes with private baths and showers. Electrical power is by generator that is turned off at 10 p.m., so bring a flashlight or headlamp for nighttime bathroom trips.
Marial Lodge is 24 miles downstream of Grave Creek, not far above the start of Mule Creek Canyon on the (north) right bank, and I'm pretty sure this one is visible from the river, though we've not stayed there. There is boat, hiking trail, and road access via Marial Road for supplies, but again I don't think drive-in clients are accepted. The lodge is open May 1st through November 15th, and accommodations are private rooms with bath and shower in the lodge complex. Power also by generator, but it reportedly stays on all night.
We have stayed at Paradise Lodge, also on the north bank at 26 miles below Grave Creek, shortly downstream of the bottom of Blossom Bar Rapids, and it is very visible from the river. Open April through mid-November. Accommodations are several separate cabins near the main lodge with different sized rooms and private baths. Power by generator, off at 10 p.m. They claim access is only by boat, hiking trail, and helicopter, but I know pilots of small planes who have flown in there in the past. They may not allow airstrip landings now? No road access. Supplies come in via jetboat from Gold Beach.
Another alternative I know little about is Half Moon Bar Lodge, just around the bend below Paradise Lodge, and across the river. They might be a little more expensive than Paradise. I've seen the place paddling by but otherwise don't know anything about it. Google for info if interested.
There are commercial rafting companies offering this lodge-to-lodge option. The trips I saw listed were at just under $1400 per person, but I'd figure at least $1500 a head after you include required costs they don't cover (that's $500 a day!). It also likely doesn't cover lodging the night before the launch, which any lodge-to-lodge tripper would expect. (?!CAMPING!?!? ME?) Anyone interested in commercial rafting this trip can Google "rogue river lodge to lodge rafting". Good luck.
There is a hiking and backpacking trail 40.5 miles long on the north side of the river. It is usually not very close to the river and the river can seldom be seen from it. Some campsites are near the river with river access. Most drinking water is from side streams. The trail can be used to access all the lodges along the river that I know of. Access via the Grave Creek boat ramp and Foster Bar, with near-midpoint access at mile 24 at the Marial Trailhead. (Search for the route to Marial OR if you want to drive there.) Black Bar Lodge on the south side of the river will ferry hikers over by reservation, though not in 2023 still because of Covid pandemic, so be sure to check and reserve in advance. Other lodges along the way could be used for hiker lodge-to-lodge accommodations.
As to "wee drams," I'm a teetotaler and have no clue, so check with the individual lodges used as to whether they supply or not and BYO if not. Check to make sure what's allowed. Most rafters, likely many lodge's main clientele, seem in my experience to be practicing alcoholics, so I'd assume most would accommodate this addiction. < HUGE GRIN >
www.nytimes.com
