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Clearing a stream

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A ten inch across tree is across a local stream. Right now the banks are very soft and a little flooded. So soft that you sink past your ankle. Stream is deep at this point.

What is the bes. Way to clear with out useing a chain saw. Planing to use hand saw from inside canoe on the upstream side.
 
I have absolutely no experience in this, but wouldn't it be safer from the downstream side? Strainers scare me. If I fell out while working, I'd drift away from the obstruction rather than into (under) it. Sounds like a two person job. Or I might try tying off to stay in place? The tree would need to come out in sections. I'm just guessing all this. I'm not too keen to try this myself.
 
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I'd approach it from the downstream side as Odyssey has mentioned. Also, do you need to do this now or can you wait until the water level is lower and the current not as strong? If that's an option I would probably go with that.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
Try to work in low flows from downstream. Clear some branches first with an axe. Just like for bucking trees, figure out if the tree is in compression or tension where you plan to make your cuts. I would use a large saw made for cutting trees not a bow saw if possible. If the tree is in tension you can cut from the top down. If it is in compression make a cut from the bottom first, and then finish with a top cut. Watch out when the cuts are made because tree parts can start to move. It might be safer to cut from upstream in shallower water with high velocity.
 
Every situation is unique and we don't have any clear idea of what you're facing, but here's some ideas to consider.

Don't use your canoe. But do wear your PFD. Work on improving your footing using scrap lumber or wood there locally. Put something down to where you can work and also rapidly get out of the way if you need to. I'm talking about not getting stuck in the mud.
If you are using a saw, I'd expect to see it bind in the cut at some point, relieve the wood on the side of the cut to where as the log sags your saw won't be trapped. I'd have my axe along too.
Depending on the span, it probably sure would help if you can get to the other bank as well.
Clear off any branches that you can and move the scraps out from under foot.
Sometimes, when trees fall they will be under a kind of twisting force and you can't tell that they might spring one way or the other when you free something up, be careful.

Good luck!

Rob
 
Never cut from downstream. If the current is bending the tree, and you successfully manage to cut it, it can release very quickly. I have cut lots of these things, with tools ranging from chainsaws to hand saws to axes. A good axe is your friend in these situations. If the tree is in the water, the compression side is almost always the upstream side, but that can change very quickly as you cut. Saw binding is almost a given if the tree has any size and it starts moving. However, if it is not in the water, and merely hanging above and across, supported on both banks, use your handsaw to cut up from the bottom and then finish the top with an axe. If it is spanning the river supported from one side only, just cut from the top straight down with your saw.

This can all be done from your canoe, just remember that the old saying "For every action there is an equally opposite action" really holds true for this in a canoe.
 
I'd take a 2' X 4' piece of plywood with, use it for footing and do this from the shore. If the water is running strong that equally opposite action may be more than expected.
 
One importent thing here is where will the tree go after it is cut... cause if you cut it and let it float down chances are that it will get stock somewhere down stream and you will have a possible hazard maybe even worst. We usually try to get the tree on shore by dropping it before we cut it if it is a bigger tree... The small stuff we just move by hand. Just a thought!!
 
first thing is- Can you legally cut it? Is it on private land or a protected area? Better to find out first rather than getting a trespass or destruction charge, you might even end up with some unexpected help that way.
Several years ago, a local fishing hot spot was disgusting and dangerous (illegal dumpsite). My fishing club wanted to clean it up, so we called the town who told us it was Ministry of transport property. I called their hotline and they sent me a letter of authorization. On the day of the cleanup about a dozen of us showed up with a couple of pickups and started work. About a half hour later we heard a lot of rumbling noise above the creek valley.
Imagine our surprise when a grader comes down the hill followed by a bulldozer and TWO excavators! A bunch of road crew guys gave up their Saturday and pitched in with all their equipment! Next the press showed up and we ended up on the evening news!
Instead of two pickups worth of garbage, we took out two dump trucks of garbage and 26 TONS of debris. The area is now a park
Find out who the owner is- worst they can say is no, best could be something fantastic!
 
We never do this, of course if we did,we would have found out this. Chain saws positively won't cut in water. Once covered by mud,trees are basically immovable. Cut in firewood lengths to prevent another downstream blockage and please the downstream neighbors. Cutting from a floating boat is the worse option .A come along and some stout rope comes in real handy to unload current strain. A good hand pruning saw works if you have strong arms. A cordless sawsall with a pruning blade works if your old and weak. You WILL get wet and dirty. When the water level changes,your work will either be unnecessary or worthless. Glad I never do this.
Turtle
 
first thing is- Can you legally cut it? Is it on private land or a protected area? Better to find out first rather than getting a trespass or destruction charge

A few years back an arborist in a local paddling club posted about getting some folks together to cut out a particularly nasty strainer on a local whitewater section of river, a trout stream that runs through public lands.

They cut out the strainer in question, and several others as well. And hooted about their efforts on a local paddling board. The guy who runs a nearby fly shop got wind of it, copied their posts and began a crusade involving the DNR, fishing groups and the media.

It got ugly fast. Just sayin’
 
Never mention doing this on line. That is why I never do it. Saw and shut up.
Turtle
 
Ha ha SSU, Saw and Shut Up, I like it! We paddle on Crown Land in the middle of no-where. The picture below is my buddy who uses a chainsaw for a living. This one creek which is a part of one of our routes suffered a burn ten years ago, and trees keep coming down every year. Last time we did it, we had to carve through 17 new log jams.


That's an extreme example, but we routinely clear sweepers in other rivers we run too.
 
Let's defer to the guys that have done this a lot, like Memaquay and Turtle. I would congratulate anyone that can remove a strainer from a river. If you say that it is best to stay upstream I will take you word for it. I have done lots of logging but not in the water. Chainsaws will run in the water, but keeping them lubricated and keeping the fuel free from contamination can be challenging.
 
"They cut out the strainer in question, and several others as well. And hooted about their efforts on a local paddling board. The guy who runs a nearby fly shop got wind of it, copied their posts and began a crusade involving the DNR, fishing groups and the media."

My guess is the trout used those strainers as hiding locations so once they were gone, the fish were too. That would definitely upset a fly fishing individual.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
"They cut out the strainer in question, and several others as well. And hooted about their efforts on a local paddling board. The guy who runs a nearby fly shop got wind of it, copied their posts and began a crusade involving the DNR, fishing groups and the media."

My guess is the trout used those strainers as hiding locations so once they were gone, the fish were too. That would definitely upset a fly fishing individual.

It was that, and more. It is a “Blue Ribbon” trout stream, and somewhat of a local economic engine. The top 3 miles is a Class 3 when it runs and the next 15 miles or so are a lovely Class 1novice run. It is largely fed from tubes at the bottom of a reservoir dam, so it is cool in the summer and rarely freezes over in the winter.

Trout are dependent on cool water temps. In drought years, when the State can barely sustain minimum water flows the temp can get high enough for die offs. Every bit of shade helps.

The Class 1 parts are also uber tuber popular on hot summer days. All of which is to say that there are overpopulation use conflicts. heck, I refuse to paddle it in summer unless I put in at dawn and I’m off before noon.

Of course in that dawn guise I see a lot of guys with fly rods. I try to paddle as quietly as possible, maybe with a little throat clear so they look my way upstream and I can make eye contact, point left and right and shrug “Which way would you like me to go?”.

No good deed goes unpunished.

In this case the punishment was unintended consequences. It was a freaking brouhaha, not just in the local papers but in the metro daily, complete with “after” photos. The “perps” got off with a wrist slap reprimand and bad press for the club.

The unintended consequences were more severe. A local nature center/Boy Scout troop used to keep the Class 1 section clear of hazardous strainers, and did so responsibly; sawing out current-side passages in big logs that spanned the river and clearing openings in the places that always develop strainer debris piles.

Not so much anymore. Stretches that used to be an effortless float with some modicum of boat control now require multiple hauls around river-wide strainers.

That consequence did reduce the number of novice paddlers, and taught others a lesson.

Too many people.
 
The problem with chainsaws in water is that the water washes the chain lube off the bar. If somebody knows a lube that won't I'd like to know. That's why the sawsall. A local county used to use Stihl chainsaw organic bar oil,but just because it was non-polluting,I tried it and it was no better. Also,if the water level varies, you can do good work at low water when branches are exposed. Unfortunatly,that means waiting till late summer.
Turtle
 
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