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Best bow tie-down rope?

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Jul 22, 2016
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Location
Wisconsin
What do you use to tie the bow to the front end of your vehicle? I can't seem to find any rope that won't stretch out while I am driving if there is a stiff cross wind. Should I just use cam straps instead? I've always avoided them for the bow tie-downs, because I thought they would interfere too much with my field of vision.
 
I would prefer a rope over a strap ! The strap flapping in the wind, would distract my driving vision too much !

A good friend uses Para cord for his canoe. It's worked for him great.

Jim
 
The risk with those cam buckle webbing straps is that one day, someone with lots of enthusiasm will overtighten the cam and crack something on the canoe or the vehicle. Webbing sometimes howls in wind, too, the remedy is supposed to be to put a twist into it but that didn't eliminate the howling entirely.

There are low-stretch ropes available (kevlar and maybe some of those stronger-than-steel discoveries?), nylon will stretch, but I'm checking and tightening on long drives and some stretch might actually help to maintain tension.
 
I use 1/4" nylon rope. I realize it will stretch over time but I adjust it as needed and have been doing this way for a long time without any issues. If I'm going on a long trip, I'll tie off to two locations. Each "location" is created by using straps that come out from under my truck hood. I used to tie off to the tow loops under the front of my truck but my new Tacoma only has one loop so I purchased the tie down straps so I could still have two points of contact.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
I use 1/4" nylon rope. I realize it will stretch over time but I adjust it as needed and have been doing this way for a long time without any issues. If I'm going on a long trip, I'll tie off to two locations.

I use those nylon loops too. Do you tie a separate line to each of the hood loops? I always used to run a single continuous line from one loop, up to the carry handle of the bow, and then back down to the second loop. Last trip, though, I decided to use two separate pieces of rope from the carry handle to each of the hood loops.
 
I use 1/4" nylon braided rope with a truckers hitch, check them at rest stops and haven't had a problem
 
It's not cheap but if non stretch is your goal you will not be able to stretch 'Spectra' line. Very low stretch, very high strength.
Jim
 
I just use the 1/4" braided polypropylene that I use as a bow line since it floats. Tied down with a truckers hitch. I've never had a problem with stretch. One issue I have had is the boat moving forward on the racks some while braking hard, making the bow to bumper tie down slack.

If you need low stretch 1/4" braided polyester is a cheaper option than the exotic ropes.
 
At the risk of being ridiculed:eek:, I don't use any bow tie downs. I try to center the canoe over the racks and so the bow tie downs would be rubbing the the truck body. I attach the tie down straps to loops in the truck bed (not the rails). Then I tie the thwarts and/or seats to the rack rails. 17 years without any incidents.

OK, I'm prepared and ready, ridicule away.

Jon
 
It's not cheap but if non stretch is your goal you will not be able to stretch 'Spectra' line. Very low stretch, very high strength.
Jim

I second the spectra or amsteel rope for the low stretch. It feels a little slick but holds knots well, unties well, and can be spliced easily.
 
Since the canoe is strapped down firmly the bow and stern lines I run to front bumper and back tailgate are for decoration only. Trouble is the patio lanterns keep blowing out when I hit 60 mph. Just kidding.
I use some leftover nylon braid or paracord, whatever is around that is strong, light and knots well. I'm like a hobo collecting cigarette butts - I can't stand to throw away odd lengths of rope. I'll find a use for it somewhere someday. In the truck wash a taut line keeps things reasonably pointed in the right direction, but boy you should see that canoe bend and twist when a logging truck blows by. A trucker's hitch is just about my favourite knot, and does a good job. My wife has suggested I employ it in place of my wrestled necktie discombobulation. I'm pretty sure she was joking, but with a family wedding coming up I may experiment.
 
OK, I'm prepared and ready, ridicule away.

If it's held up and kept the canoe in place all that time, it must be working.

This OTOH, is really ridiculous...

---------------------------------------------

A piece of string walks into a bar.

He sits down, and the bartender rushes right over.

"Hey, you're a pathetic piece of string! Didn't you see the sign? ROPES ONLY! We don't want your kind in here! OUT!"

And with that, the bartender throws the piece of string out into the street.

The piece of string gets up and ties himself into knots and fluffs up his fibers, so he looks bigger and stronger, more like a rope.

Then he walks back into the bar.

The bartender glares at him, "Isn't it you again, the piece of string? Is that you again?"

And the piece of string replies...

"No, I'm a frayed knot."
 
Static accessoire rope for climbing, like a 7-8-9mm would do great! Nylon stretch when wet so cam straps are mainly nylon so they stretch a lot.
 
Despite the levity I don't take this lightly. I insist on tight lines, even though the two belly straps are probably enough to keep 'er on at any speed.
Having recently replaced single bow and stern lines with two lines each tied down to these under the front hood and rear tailgate:
P7251730.JPG
 
I just use the 1/4" braided polypropylene that I use as a bow line since it floats. Tied down with a truckers hitch. I've never had a problem with stretch.

If you need low stretch 1/4" braided polyester is a cheaper option than the exotic ropes.

After years (er, decades) of replacing inexpensive Home Depot poly rope I bit the bullet and started buying good quality rope. Piecemeal at first, 30 feet at a time from this outfitter and that. Some was more hand kindly, some held knots or hitches better than others. Some of the best was WTF black, which is a stupid color for painter rope that may be needed in a rescue.

I knew I want floating rope, for obvious snag-safety reasons. I knew I wanted high tensile strength. I knew I wanted it garish bright for easy visibility. I knew I want rope thick enough that it doesn’t hurt my hand when pulling the canoe while I trudged across a hundred yards of 2 inch deep sandbar, or for hauling it high and dry up a steep bank to some ledge site. I knew I wanted rope that holds firm with a knot or hitch.

Given those criteria Pblanc suggested this rope. I like it.

http://www.austinkayak.com/products/7241/BlueWater-Ropes-516-River-Rescue-Rope-BW-R3-300-ft.html

Ever helpful, Pete suggested it when it was both on sale and coupon discounted. At the (then cheaper) price I bought a 300 ft spool, which should last me a lifetime, and I will never use junk painter lines again.

I still have a box of Home-Crappo rope, some used, some still new. That’s now the give away “Here, use this” cordage.

One issue I have had is the boat moving forward on the racks some while braking hard, making the bow to bumper tie down slack.

Yeah, this bow/stern rope arrangement /______\ , typical on most vehicles, kinda lends itself to that. The bow and stern lines need to be tensioned in opposite directions, but I really prefer the belly lines tied off to the rack crossbars (with gunwale stops), and the bow and stern lines tied off to the vehicle. Belt and suspender tie downs, in case of catastrophic rack failure.

With the usual 2 canoe load that is 8 lines, 8 trucker’s hitches and 5 minutes tops to tie it all down.

The gunwale stops help prevent forward movement to some degree, but on long highway roadtrips I add a third painter line pulling the canoe backward. That line is unfortunately tied from thwart or seat to crossbar; in a real panic brake I’d rather have that emergency line going to some stout vehicle point, rather than risk tear off a crossbar or thwart.

But I have not yet figured out a way to tie down an oppositional stern springline that’s attached to the bumper or hitch without occluding access to the truck cap or van doors.
 
Yes, although I've altered where and how I'm tying down bow and stern I still can't access through the tailgate. Darn. I could rig up a high crossbar of sorts somehow to provide sufficient height to allow the open tailgate with canoe still strapped down, but can't be bothered to figure that out. I just access through the two side sliding van doors. My bowlines keep some tension forward while the stern lines running nearly straight down from canoe to top of tailgate prevents forward shifting of canoe. We're preparing for a trip tomorrow between rain showers, sunny breaks and hail. (Or should I say effin hail?) I'll try to remember to take some photos.
 
What do you use to tie the bow to the front end of your vehicle? I can't seem to find any rope that won't stretch out while I am driving if there is a stiff cross wind. Should I just use cam straps instead? I've always avoided them for the bow tie-downs, because I thought they would interfere too much with my field of vision.

If your lines are stretching in a crosswind, it may be because the stern lines are not pulling in an equal and opposite direction from the bow lines. Beyond that, I use 1/4" nylon braided line (3/16" will do as well) and don't experience any problems. If the lines get wet, they still seem to be tight enough, but wet nylon straps definitely need to be monitored and tightened when driving in the rain.
 
At the risk of being ridiculed:eek:, I don't use any bow tie downs. I try to center the canoe over the racks and so the bow tie downs would be rubbing the the truck body. I attach the tie down straps to loops in the truck bed (not the rails). Then I tie the thwarts and/or seats to the rack rails. 17 years without any incidents.

OK, I'm prepared and ready, ridicule away.

Jon

Ok here goes, that works on your truck but not my Jeep where the tie offs are only about 4' apart. I like the added rope. If I could tie it further to the ends of the canoe I'd feel safer but my ropes are around the belly of the canoe.
 
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