Kite +6%

I applied the third coat of varnish today inside and out after roughing with maroon Scotchbrite on my RO with interface pad. I then gave it a vacuum, a wash and a wipe before tack clothing. I managed to get the whole inside and out with one 2" foam brush. Normally I use two but I'm running low. It's finally warming up here so hopefully this coat will cure a little faster than the previous ones.

I have a few spots in the varnish where I don't have it completely level. Do you guys think I should use 180grit on the interface pad to level it before the final coat or do you have a different suggestion?

BigandSmall said:

I have a few spots in the varnish where I don't have it completely level. Do you guys think I should use 180grit on the interface pad to level it before the final coat or do you have a different suggestion?

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I'd figure the scratches of using it will cover them but I'm the reason that I can't have nice things & usually stop at level-ish. YMMV

Sorry for the delay guys I had other projects I had to get ready for spring. I also wasn't having success in getting the end caps figured out. After seeing Cruiser's "Faberge end caps" I was hoping to get something that looked decent. I spent a day making some wood patterns I was planning to cut out of aluminum. The lower pieces I was cutting and bending to weld to them just weren't turning out though. The way the aluminum gunnel is rounded makes it difficult to get something looking decent. I decided in the end to go back to the original plan of the plastic end caps and to try to make those work.

I started by cutting the caps in half lengthwise then marking each for center and using a hand plane to shave them down. I then put some rake on them planing down the back side so it would clear the tumblehome section better. I broke out the heat gun and re-shaped the nose bit before using 60 grit on the RO to further shave the center line. Once they were close I roughed the inside the taped them up. I used some JB Plastic Bonder and pieces of S glass I cut as well as some 2" tape. I started by rubbing the glue into the crack then laying glass over top and wrapping a piece around the nose followed by another layer over top. Initially I was hoping these might make patters to 3d print from but they didn't turn out too badly. I used a Dremel to grind down any high spots and had to sand the tips of the boat a little to conform to the caps. I drilled holes for some bolts (or black rivets) and one for a lifting eye bolt too. I need to epoxy seal the holes now add a little glass to toughen around the eye bolt.

The caps look ok from a few feet back and seem strong. Hopefully seal them in a few days then get on that last coat of varnish.

When I went to do a little glass reinforcing above the bolt I saw I drilled poorly and didn't have room for a washer behind the bolt because I was too close to the float tank. Instead I cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum and will drill and tap it for M8. After I get it threaded on hopefully I'll have enough thread showing to Loctite a nut on there. Getting to this point was a pain, angle grinder, tin snips, then Dremel. I should have thought more about this before I riveted the aluminum on.


If you guys were ordering some line to walk the canoe through a rough section on the river how long a rope would you want tied onto that eyebolt?