You never know what you'll like until you try it. Never say never.I prefer symmetrical too, on rivers. But on lakes, I don't really have a preference. Actually getting into something like a Trillium or Magic might change my mind.
You never know what you'll like until you try it. Never say never.I prefer symmetrical too, on rivers. But on lakes, I don't really have a preference. Actually getting into something like a Trillium or Magic might change my mind.
You never know what you'll like until you try it. Never say never.
As far as asymmetrical rocker, for a solo boat or otherwise, I'm with Marc O and think I'll stick with symmetrical. I can't think of a reason not to.
For sure, even a slight change on trim or lean changes the boats performance.I think one could make the argument that because of your normal stern heavy seating position that you actually do prefer asymmetrical rocker.
Alan
This is something about which I know very little, but I believe you can have an asymmetrical boat that is not Swede-form; I have generally been under the impression that Swede-form boats have the widest part behind the enter, essentially making them longer in front of the beam and shorter behind. I believe this impacts the location of the center of rotation which would thus impact the rate of rotation and increases forward paddling efficiency because the entry-lines are sleeker. I believe a boat can have its widest point directly at midship and yet still be asymmetrical if the rocker is different fore and aft, which should have the impact of helping tracking (albeit without the benefit of the extra paddling efficiency awarded by the Swede-form hull), but I would think (especially with a solo) that an asymmetric boat with the widest point at midship would spin better when heeled than would a Swede-form boat when heeled.So, what about edging symmetrical (below the waterline) vs Swedeform? I still have to get the Moccasin and the Solitude out on the same day for comparison, but just going on memory it seems that the Solitude responds to edging for a turn a bit more than the Moccasin. Both 15.5' long. Both zero rocker. Both good secondary and easily edged. So Swedeform vs symmetrical is the only difference under the water.
Anyone else have an idea on that? I can't say I'm sure about it yet.
I agree with this. I think it's hard to draw conclusions about one design variable in isolation (there's really no situation where "everything else is equal" except one thing). I think some design variables are coupled...so it's the combination that's key. I've paddled boats that heel beautifully at low speeds on calm water but get sticky and unresponsive at cruise speed or in current.How all these different combinations of symmetry/asymmetry and different hull shapes affect heeling is hard to generalize, other than at the extremes. That is, highly rockered canoes will be easier to turn than zero rocker canoes. Most touring canoes are not designed at these extremes, so it's hard to predict manueverability and tracking precisely just from specs. One's height, weight and gear load also affect heeled and unheeled performance.
That seems intuitive. And like I said, I'm going on memory - so that is suspect. I really need to get both boats on the lake on the same calm day. The "calm" thing has been rare around here lately.This is something about which I know very little, but I believe you can have an asymmetrical boat that is not Swede-form; I have generally been under the impression that Swede-form boats have the widest part behind the enter, essentially making them longer in front of the beam and shorter behind. I believe this impacts the location of the center of rotation which would thus impact the rate of rotation and increases forward paddling efficiency because the entry-lines are sleeker. I believe a boat can have its widest point directly at midship and yet still be asymmetrical if the rocker is different fore and aft, which should have the impact of helping tracking (albeit without the benefit of the extra paddling efficiency awarded by the Swede-form hull), but I would think (especially with a solo) that an asymmetric boat with the widest point at midship would spin better when heeled than would a Swede-form boat when heeled.
Again, I could be making all of this up, but it's how I have organized the thoughts in my head!
I agree with this. I think it's hard to draw conclusions about one design variable in isolation (there's really no situation where "everything else is equal" except one thing). I think some design variables are coupled...so it's the combination that's key. I've paddled boats that heel beautifully at low speeds on calm water but get sticky and unresponsive at cruise speed or in current.
...Or maybe it's just that you're on the right shoulder of that bell curve and your forward stroke doesn't suck.On lakes, I don't find the tracking to be all that different. I'm on the heavy side (230 lbs), so maybe it is just that the boats are sitting low in the water anyway.