Converting Penobscot 16 into a solo...

Brightraven said:

I ordered four custom ash thwarts and installed them evenly throughout the hull, as well as put in a new extended webbed seat, all from Ed's Canoe

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Nice set up—structurally, aesthetically and very practically for centralized solo paddling. The only thing about that seat will be, like all bench seats without a softly sloped front edge, it may cut into the back of your thighs or butt when kneeling off it. Of course, kneeling paddlers have dealt with that issue for ages with bench seats.

Brightraven said:

I may end up taking the seat out entirely and just kneeling on a stuff sack (which often is my preference)

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If you already have a kneel-able stuff sack of the right size, you can jam it under the seat, protruding forward. That way, you can just slide right off the front of the seat and onto the stuff sack, which you can shift left and right if it's not jammed too tight.

Keep us informed.

That's exactly how my Canadienne looked after changing over to solo.
The small one was a little less than 16 feet, but only had a 32 inch beam.
It felt tender so I sold it and made money. It was rocket fast.
Personally the Penobscot 16 would suit me better.
Good job.

Looks good. I would have kept a yoke in the center, but whatever works for you.

Thanks Steve in Idaho, I agree with you, and wish there was one in the original configuration…but the way those mid hull thwarts and mid seat were placed would have made installing one too cramped and I didn’t want to go adding a bunch of new holes while I spread out the thwarts. I have a removable yoke from Northstar that’s not great…but I’ll see how it goes. I wonder about maybe hooking up some D-rings on the inside near the center and attaching some removable wide webbing or something for a makeshift yoke…

You must have ended up with a couple of gunwale holes from the removed bow and stern seats. What did you do with them?

Brightraven said:

I have a removable yoke from Northstar that’s not great…but I’ll see how it goes.

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I've used the same clamp-on yoke for all my solo canoes (with wood gunwales) for 41 years. I also have one for my tandem canoes. They work fine for short carries on day trips and long portages on camping trips. While paddling, I usually attach it to the gunwales angled behind me, although it can also be put it on the floor.

Brightraven said:

I wonder about maybe hooking up some D-rings on the inside near the center and attaching some removable wide webbing or something for a makeshift yoke…

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We have at least one extensive thread on making and installing strap yokes along with different types of buckles. I've never installed one and wouldn't use one for more than short carries from and to the vehicle. But if that's all you want to do, it's an option.

Wenonah used to (maybe still does?) sell a kit for making your original yoke a quick-release. It basically consisted of a pair of strap hinges with associated bolts and nuts. You would bolt the long narrow half of each hinge to the underside of the ends of the yoke, and bolt the short wide halves under the gunwales at the balance point. Two clip pins of the proper diameter in place of hinge pins finished the installation.

When I added the solo seat to my Penobscot they were out of stock, so I just found all the appropriate parts at the nearest hardware store.

Of course, you might have to relocate your current center thwart to make room for that.

Glenn MacGrady said:

You must have ended up with a couple of gunwale holes from the removed bow and stern seats. What did you do with them?

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3/16” black plastic hole plugs…they work great.

I just ignore the holes. They are in place if anyone wants to go back to a tandem set up.

ppine said:

I just ignore the holes. They are in place if anyone wants to go back to a tandem set up.

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The plugs easily come out to reconvert to a tandem setup or to use for other seats, etc...but it does look nicer in my opinion when they are sealed...

Steve in Idaho said:

Wenonah used to (maybe still does?) sell a kit for making your original yoke a quick-release. It basically consisted of a pair of strap hinges with associated bolts and nuts. You would bolt the long narrow half of each hinge to the underside of the ends of the yoke, and bolt the short wide halves under the gunwales at the balance point. Two clip pins of the proper diameter in place of hinge pins finished the installation.

When I added the solo seat to my Penobscot they were out of stock, so I just found all the appropriate parts at the nearest hardware store.

Of course, you might have to relocate your current center thwart to make room for that.

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Hi Steve in Idaho, do you have a photo or image of what this setup looks like when it's all in place? I'm trying to visualize it and can't find anything online. I think this might be the yoke setup I need to investigate though...Thanks!

Will Derness said:

This photo should help you visualize how these alternative seat drops help with inhibiting seat back and forth sway. Compared with dowel seat drops there is much more surface contact area on both the gunwale and seat stay. Much less precision needed during installation than truss drops.
View attachment 147003

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Are these seat drops home-made or did you get them from somewhere?

Brightraven said:

Hi Steve in Idaho, do you have a photo or image of what this setup looks like when it's all in place? I'm trying to visualize it and can't find anything online. I think this might be the yoke setup I need to investigate though...Thanks!

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I think I still have a photo. I'll have to look through my files and get back to you.

Brightraven said:

Are these seat drops home-made or did you get them from somewhere?

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Home made drops. I used some dimension lumber (3/4x4, I think) and hand drew the curves. Cut with a jig saw, these have all the imperfections of something drawn by hand.

@Brightraven - found it...

@Steve in Idaho
Perfect, thank you! This is the route I will go…looks simple enough to install…

Brightraven said:

Thank you for your replies. Today I took out the bow and stern seats while leaving the center seat and the two remaining thwarts. Upon picking up the canoe, there was definitely some minor wobble and flex in the Royalex, so I assume those seats did add some structural support (albeit quite limited). Definitely lighter in weight, and I plan on exchanging the ash thwarts and remaining seat with cherry to bring the weight down even more. I think adding a thwart towards each end of the boat may provide some stiffness and integrity as well. When I took it out on the water today I was so impressed by how easily this boat maneuvered. I like to paddle Canadian style, knees tucked into the hull, and the boat moved effortlessly, heeled over to the side. What I thought was a regretful impulse buy turned out to be quite a sweet boat...now I just want to personalize it a bit by strengthening it and lightening the woodwork. I'm wondering if Ed's canoes is the place to go for lighter wooden seats with extended webbing, thwarts, etc...? Many thanks for the inspiration and words of wisdom.

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Cherry looks great, especially on a red canoe, but will not save much weight. Look up the densities.

971821 said:

Cherry looks great, especially on a red canoe, but will not save much weight. Look up the densities.

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Yes, I ended up going with ash thwarts and seat, all from Ed’s Canoe, and they did a great job. I’m loving the soloized Penobscot 16, and find it a very sweet ride. So far I’ve only paddled on lakes and ponds but plan to bring it down the Delaware this Fall.
What I like about this setup is the roominess I have in the “paddling box”. I prefer to kneel on a stuff sack when I paddle, while heeled over to my left…and if I want to take a break and sit on the bench, I just sit on it across from me and face the opposite direction, as it’s a symmetrical hull.
I also planned on installing a quick-release removable “pin” yoke, and got everything to set it all up, but I have held off for now… the permanent latch/pin hardware would be right where I like to grab the boat and lift it and I think it would be an impediment while carrying it around. I’ve been able to lift it up and slide it on and off the car rack with no problem but to portage would be a different story…
Hence, just this week I discovered online the “bungee yoke”, which should arrive soon and I plan on doing a write up of how it works if all goes well…the manufacturer did tell me that my boat is at the upper weight limit for the bungee yoke, but I’m eager to try it out. You can see videos of his set up on YouTube. He has the Adirondack Adventure channel. Anyone else here use that setup?
Below are some photos of the P-solo!

@Brightraven

Your "P-Solo" turned out really well! Great job.
Now I wish you many relaxing and adventurous hours out in narure and on the water.

regards
Michael

PS: the carpets ... how awesome is that?

Great job. I like at least 3 thwarts in every canoe, but 4 is even better. There is the problem of the middle thwart at the balance point. It is pretty easy to clamp one in. Your lash up looks pretty great. I used a similar seat and added new thwarts. Very rewarding process. I sold mine for $400 more than I paid for it.

Looks good!
Regarding the QR yoke - if you install the yoke mounts just ahead of the balance point, you can still lift the canoe by grasping the rails at the balance point. Also, then you have an easier carry, being slightly stern heavy.

But I'm interested to see how the bungee thing works out.

And why have I never thought to put a rug in the boat for my dog? Seems like she would be more "at home" with that.